New Tank Build Thread

[Left C]

Yes, it is weird! I even brought the venturi (from both pumps) to Loewes and HD to match up and no dice. Even the employees agreed the threads did not match.

When first threading it, it didn't turn easily or start correctly and would go off at an angle. So to prevent detroying the threads....I am going another direction.

It is possible you cracked yours if the threads did not match and you 'forced' it on. Did it seem to require a lot of effort to connect the pieces?

I am still researching a G1 connection vs a PVC sched 40 threads.

Thanks!

I don't remember having to force it. It just screwed right on. I played with it for over a year before I used it. I bought mine when the 1103's first came out, whenever that was.

Mine is working just fine with the same 3 parts on both ends and the A-M 15mm x 4mm Tee on the intake.

I know what I can do. I can take that broken intake over to Lowe's and check the fit. Then I can get back to you on it.

 

[Left C]

I took the Eheim connector over to Lowe's after lunch. The female thread on it is regular Schd 80 1" threads (G 1"). The Schd 80 1" parts screwed on just fine. This means that the male threads on the pump are regular Schd 80 1" threads (G 1") just like is mentioned in the directions.

The male thread on the Eheim connector is a 1" tapered thread. I was able to screw the regular 1" Schd 80 PVC parts on to this part. They got tighter and tighter as I screwed them on. I tried several different parts. I could screw the parts on almost all the way. One thread was showing when I got it as hand tight as I could. This was without using any Teflon tape. If I were to screw it on using Teflon tape, there might be more than one thread showing. I probably wouldn't be able to get it on as far. Still this should be tight enough with the Teflon tape that it shouldn't leak. There was no cross threading or starting at an angle.

The part of my connector that I cracked was on the 1" female regular thread side (G 1"). I just went too tight and it split (a small crack formed). There is a plastic washer that forms a seal on the female side.

If you don't want to use this Eheim connector, the way that I am using mine now works fine. By the way, I run the pump at full blast, but it will work fine on its slowest setting too.

Does this help?

 

[Gerryd]

Hi Left C,

Thanks so much for your efforts! That was not my intent to send you on errands.....

My pvc will NOT thread at all. If you have a SKU or UPC from the fitting I will gladly take that info....

This is a bit strange

 

[Gerryd]

Then and now

Hey all,

I thought it would be funny to post a pic of the hardscape when Tom was initially done with it and a pic from the other day to see how it looks now...

Then.....

View attachment 2730

and now......

View attachment 2731

 

[Gerryd]

Lighting switch!

Hey all,

Well, seeing as I haven't spent any $ on the tank in at least 2 weeks.......LOL. I am going to REPLACE my 72" 6x39w T5HO fixture with TWO 36" 8x39w fixtures from ATI. I will simply place them end to end on my light bar..

http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/lig...module-fixture

Please note I am NOT paying this price This vendor gave me an excellent quote plus shipping when I contacted them re: 2 units... excellent customer service so far. Jeremy has answered at least 6-8 e-mails already

I am doing this for several reasons. I am NOT doing this because I want or NEED more light!!!

1. The ATI fixtures are FULLY DIMMABLE and can provide dusk/dawn effects as well as other features. Tom documented some of this already in the Light forum.

Each fixture has 4 ballasts that drive 2 tubes each. The config is a bit odd IMO. Bulbs are numbered 1-8 from front of fixture to the back:

Ballast #1 - Bulbs 3,6

Ballast #2 - Bulbs 1,2

Ballast #3 - Bulbs 4,5

Ballast #4 - Bulbs 7,8

So, I can ramp up and down per ballast as desired. I can have more or less light at times and places at my discretion.

2. The ATI fixtures have better reflectors. This helps MINIMIZE the glare/spill with my current fixture. I will be able to have the fixture LOWER which will also help a bit. Tom mentioned this as well in his thread.

3. With dimming there is no need to raise/lower the FIXTURE to adjust light and PAR levels. I don't change mine now that PAR is set, but I like the thought of NEVER having to adjust it!

4. The ATI fixture from what I understand is QUIETER re the cooling fans. It won't be louder I am fairly certain.

5. It is WIDER than my current fixture and will provide more EVEN light from front to back. I can simply reduce the % for the end bulbs to maintain the current PAR for the clover's requirements.

6. I am HOPING that with a gradual on/off that the fish will not be startled by 8x39w coming on at once and NOT JUMP out of the tank. The controller in the new unit allows for 0-100% intensity as desired so it will go ON and OFF gradually..

The dimming feature alone is worth the cost to me and the corresponding ability to view the tank more!!!! I will be able to view the tank LONGER since I can simply use a much lower % of each ballast or simply 1 or 2 ballast/tubes to get enough light to see it. Even 5% from a few bulbs will be enough for late night viewing!

Now the best I can do is 4x39w at 100%.

I don't care for the blue LED moon lights on my current fixture...so that option is out for me.

I think the cost is worth it in the long term and the FLEXIBILITY these fixtures will provide.

I'll pull the trigger this week and keep you all advised of developments..

Later

 

[csmith]

It's remarkable that after being moved twice the tank still looks the same. How much of that was you eyeballing the old photo after the tank made its way back to you?

 

[Left C]

Hi Left C,

Thanks so much for your efforts! That was not my intent to send you on errands.....

My pvc will NOT thread at all. If you have a SKU or UPC from the fitting I will gladly take that info....

This is a bit strange

The pump has regular G 1" threads. If you skip using the stock CO2 inlet connector (part no 7007358) and use the AM 15mm x 4mm Tee with the same 3 PVC fittings on the intake and output; you will be good to go then.

 

[Gerryd]

The pump has regular G 1" threads. If you skip using the stock CO2 inlet connector (part no 7007358) and use the AM 15mm x 4mm Tee with the same 3 PVC fittings on the intake and output; you will be good to go then.

Hi Left C,

Yes, I am going the T route in the size you mentioned...

I simply would like to hook it up as designed is all...

I meant the part # of the PVC COUPLER you got from Loewes...

 

[Left C]

I tried several different lengths of the 1" Schd 80 couplers and some other 1" fittings at Lowe's. All of them screwed on the stock part's tapered threads down to all but the last thread. I don't have these UPC's.

 

[Gerryd]

Confession Time

It does look like it never left

Yes it does, doesn't it?

It's remarkable that after being moved twice the tank still looks the same.

Yes, remarkable is one word to describe it....

You have a good eye my friend.....

********************

All,

I have to make a confession here...

I completely fabricated the story about selling my tank and rebuying it....it has been here in my living room the entire time....

I apologize if anyone is offended and understand if you never believe another word from me...

Some history..

*****************

I was talking to JJ one day for quite some time about various things. At one point, he asked me how my tank was doing...Without missing a beat I told him I had sold it. He didn't buy it at first but I can be very convincing and 'serious' and he ended up swallowing that fish tale...I made it all up as I went along....I can be good that way...

I then told him the truth after about 10 minutes...

He was laughing about it when Left C's post showed up asking how the tank was....

Well, I had wanted to take some time off from posting in general, as I was tired of posting the ups and downs of the plant growth, and just wanted to be patient and let things go for some time. The timing was too perfect and I simply went with the story that was fresh in my mind....with no tank, why would I post?? So, it worked out that way..

I tried to put some clues in there, like them paying DOUBLE what I paid, and that they wanted MY tank rather than simply having one built....

Then, I had to figure our a way to get the tank 'back', since I wanted to post about it once things were progressing and some real progress had been made..

I wasn't sure THAT story would go over either, as it was just too convenient that they had to 'leave the country'...

But then folks posted about it and I carried it forward for a bit, but my early April Fool's practical joke is over...

Again, I hope folks found this amusing and/or entertaining and are not offended.....

By the comments, you were certainly entertained....

Thanks!

 

[Gerryd]

I tried several different lengths of the 1" Schd 80 couplers and some other 1" fittings at Lowe's. All of them screwed on the stock part's tapered threads down to all but the last thread. I don't have these UPC's.

Yes, that is wierd that your fittings are fine. Again, they fit to the PUMP fine, just not the venturi part...Strange...

 

[csmith]

I was actually going to ask what moving company was used, because if they could get it out and back in that same shape they would definately be my choice for my next change of station. I honestly thought the whole time you and Tom had just used an industrial amount of adhesive on the hardscape or something of that sort. Well played.

 

[Gerryd]

I was actually going to ask what moving company was used, because if they could get it out and back in that same shape they would definately be my choice for my next change of station. I honestly thought the whole time you and Tom had just used an industrial amount of adhesive on the hardscape or something of that sort. Well played.

Well, I actually did consider stuff like that. I provide a LOT of detail in my threads, and I thought it would be suspicious if I glossed over too much. Was hard providing some overall details with getting too specific Too many details and is easier to get caught out...

Actually, I think NOW I could move it intact as follows:

1. Drain all the water but keep the substrate wet/moist.

2. I would say anything with roots would remain as they are and keep the substrate intact.

3. The wood is either weighted with slate or buried under ADA and plants and doesn't move either.

4. I would cust plastic around the trees and cover the substrate.

5. If the tank was left on the stand and moved that way, and the truck drove slowly, I think it could be done.

Just not sure about a LONG trip...

Thanks.

 

[Gerryd]

Hi all,

Rachel came through for me again! Just got an e-mail that she has my 150 diptail pencils (n.eques)!

I think she will watch them for a week or so and then ship them out...

I am very excited as that will mostly finish the fish list...

Just need some dwarf cichlids that won't eat ALL of the shrimp

I have had as many as 60 diptails when I had my 180, but now I will have close to 200

Rachel's Website:

http://www.msjinkzd.com/index.html

 

[Mark Lem]

Love it! I'm still in planning stages for my big tank (looking at a February start up) but plan on checking Rachel out for big schools of fish. Post a pic when you get them in your beast tank

 

[Gerryd]

Love it! I'm still in planning stages for my big tank (looking at a February start up) but plan on checking Rachel out for big schools of fish. Post a pic when you get them in your beast tank

Thanks. Rachel is great to work with (at least via e-mail lol) and provides great healthy stock. I have gotten 150 rummies, 250+ amanos, and the other pencils and didn't have more than 1-5 doa TOTAL and the rummies and amanos were huge...

Rachel confirmed before she will quarantine for 2 weeks and then send them out. She just got them yesterday, so....a few weeks I can post pics.

I can't wait till they adapt and form a big school at the surface.....I hope them up top and the rummies at the bottom.....will look nice I think. I have always liked pencilfish and they are one of my faves....those and apistos are tops on my list that I have kept personally..

Later.

 

[Gerryd]

Punishment for my crime

Hey,

Lest anyone think that my practical joking went unnoticed or unpunished by fate......

About 2-3 weeks ago I woke up and heard a splashing sound. I was not feeling well and went back to sleep, even though I KNEW I shouldn't be hearing water at all..

I woke up around 3:30 am and heard the same noise. I made myself get up to check it out. I stepped onto the carpet while turning on the light. Simultaneously, my foot got VERY wet with an ugly squooshing sound and I saw that the tank was MORE THAN HALF EMPTY.....

I immediately yanked the plugs on the GFI and all went quiet. The canisters and heater were still on and running. The splashing sound was the canister outlet hitting the water 10 inches below.....

I felt around the tank to ensure the tank itself hadn't split or anything and then went looking for the leak...

Turns out that one of the INLINE check valves on my INTERNAL NW c02 pump had DISCONNECTED from the tubing, of course on the wrong side, of the check valve. The siphon effect of the c02 tubing IN THE TANK drained the tank SLOWLY over hours....

I yanked the NW pump out of the tank and at least stopped the leak...

Long story short, I had to call a company for them to cleanup the water, clean the carpets, ensure no mold, etc. Cost a good $ (350) and took several days before the carpet was tacked back down and all was as it was...

I lost about 100-110 gallons of water.

Good thing is that at least it would NOT have drained completely as the NW pump would soon have been out of the water and the siphon would have broken.

**********************

So.......................

If you have this configuration, I would advise either removing it or ensuring that the tubing will NOT disconnect.

This is in fact a TRUE story and I can provide a bill and witnesses....

Later!

 

[Left C]

... Turns out that one of the INLINE check valves on my INTERNAL NW c02 pump had DISCONNECTED from the tubing, of course on the wrong side, of the check valve. The siphon effect of the c02 tubing IN THE TANK drained the tank SLOWLY over hours....

I yanked the NW pump out of the tank and at least stopped the leak... ...

That's a mell of a hess to wake up to! Dang!!!

Something that I want to mention about using the 15mm x 4mm Aqua Medic Tee vs using the Eheim 1103 1" Tapered x 4mm x 1" G1 connector, the AM Tee has barbs and where the CO2 line connects to the Eheim stock part doesn't. It is smooth. This was unnerving to me. I had fears that the tubing would slip off of the Eheim connector and flood the house. I put a zip-tie on it to hold the tubing on when I first set it up. I'm not worried about that any more because the AM Tee has barbs to hold the CO2 tubing on. I feel better because I am using the AM Tee and not the Eheim stock part.

 

[Gerryd]

That's a mell of a hess to wake up to! Dang!!!

Something that I want to mention about using the 15mm x 4mm Aqua Medic Tee vs using the Eheim 1103 1" Tapered x 4mm x 1" G1 connector, the AM Tee has barbs and where the CO2 line connects to the Eheim stock part doesn't. It is smooth. This was unnerving to me. I had fears that the tubing would slip off of the Eheim connector and flood the house. I put a zip-tie on it to hold the tubing on when I first set it up. I'm not worried about that any more because the AM Tee has barbs to hold the CO2 tubing on. I feel better because I am using the AM Tee and not the Eheim stock part.

Yeah, it was ugly.....I was lucky in that the cleaning company was out 45 minutes after I called them....very nice guy. To think I was going to do it MYSELF.....I'd still be cleaning the water up lol

He had this nice rectangular pad that covered a large area and scarfed up the water. He was done in < 1 hour for the most part..

********

I was also fortunate in that the co2 tubing pointed AWAY from the thousands of outlets and strips, etc UNDER the tank. So fairly fortunate too that not much water got under the stand itself. Perhaps a little but we'll see when I REALLY move it

*********

I see your point on the c02 input on the stock part vs the T...

I would use a zip tie as well.....

I was going to ask if the c02 input would leak water if knocked off the T, but I guess I have my answer

Appreciate your experiences...

 

[Left C]

The AM Tee is the easy way out for you because of the goofy Eheim threads.

There is a very good plumbing supply near me. Maybe they can identify those goofy threads. I'll let you know.