setup/design new tank

If the light has the dimmer, those are about as good as you can get. We do not have that option here. I've seen those and they are great.
You will not use it all, perhaps 1/2 that amount most of the day and maybe a spike in the middle of day for 2-4 hours.

ADA aqua soil is not mandatory. Seems it should not be that costly though. Italy and the UK have deals and I think there is one in France as well.

In any event,onyx sand is very nice and great top plant in. It is heavy compared to Eco complete, and is a bit heavier than most sand. It is about 2-3x as dense as ADa AS which tends to be light weight.

If you want a similar effect, mix some good black rich wetland soil, about 2-3 handfuls into about the bottom of the onxy sand. Pre soak and drain the wetland soil for a couople of week first. Mix well with the bottom 5 cm of onyx. Then add another 3-5 cm of onyx sand on top of that.

Another method is to use Osmocoat. Make enough to light cover the bottom no more than about 1/2 cm apart. This will not produce as good results but will offer some source of nutrients over time.

I have several pots at the lab with standard peat rich clay wetland soil and it grows the milfoil at the same rates as ADA AS, a tad faster most likely, I'll be doing dry weights shortly for more precise data.

The main thing is to dilute the soil/enrichment fraction when mixing the soil and sand together, note: you may use plain sand as well for this, however, the onyx sand is better vs plain sand(8 bags = about 120lbs, that's okay, but more is better, I'd go with no less than 15lb per 10 gal, this allows for slopes and hillsides in the scaping). I prefer a darker or lighter substrate, onyx is a bit blue in color I do not care for. If it came in an off white/pure white, or deep black/brown etc I'd still use it.

By adding a smaller amount to larger volume of sand, the uprooting and trimming does not make a mess and you do not over enriched the tank with NH4.

You may add frozen "mud" (soil + water + ice tray= in freezer for 2 hours) cubes to re enrich the substrate later. the frozen mud melts after a few minutes in the warm substrate and does not make a mess.

These are some options for you to consider.
ADA As last much longer than 1-2 years. I'd say more like 5 or more. It does depend on uprooting frequency and pruning and scaping habits. If you can set a scape and leave it be, then allow it to grow in and top the plants and leave them root, then you can get more life of it. If you move things around a lot, uproot often, you might find it has a shorter life.

If you used a pair of Rhinox 2000's at each end and had the flow that swirl it down and along the length of the tank, that would be great.

I'm not sure why you think an AM or Dupla reactor is worth even 1/2 the cost.
If you want to make a large CO2 reactor to fit any tank for the most part:

Search DIY external reactor Ghori Tom Barr etc
Cost about 10$.
Most any hardware store has these parts.

Make sure the CO2 equipment fits the sizes of fixtures and adapters you have there. I use 1/8" threaded brass fittings here, I buy the valves myself and thread them into the Tee's so I cn make them as long as I want.
The valves from Aqua cave are nice, run about 21$ and have a 1/8" thread already that forms a very good seal with the 1/8" pipe and Tees.

I screw this into the solenoid on the regulator.
I use the Aquaticeco Tygon tubing 1/8" and it's a perfect fit and leak proof.
I use a Victor light duty regulator and clippard solenoid..

For a 3 valve unit this runs about 160$ with tubing/solenoid.

Adding a reactor, another 10-15$, adding two rhinox diffusers, maybe 30-35$.

Add a fire company CO2 gas tank, 20lbs for 60$.

Total is about 270$

Can you do it cheaper?
Yes, but the above example will minimize the issues with CO2 a great deal.
I can find reg's cheaper, use silicone tubing, clippard valves, no solenoid etc, or buy a cheapy reg all in one.

I've never been happy with those.
Look for hard scape materials, look at the NBAT tanks.
Figure out what you really want, leave the harder species alone and focus on a design that does not demand exclusively harder species. chose species for the overall look, not because you happen to like that particular species. Consider easy plants that fit the design.
You have already done the harder plant species.
So now is time for something new..........time to branch out.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

ADa and SeaChem ought to be priced similar.
Yes, you only need one bag of the 9 liter for the ADA AS vs two bags of onyx.

NBAT has a lot of rule for the gardens.
But, they allow nice presentations of groups for each species kept.

A well done simple easy plant group is a lot nicer than the rarest so - so looking group.

The AGA has a large slice of folks entering.
Many are not into the Dutch styling.
I see a few that come close.

I personally like the dutch styling and over flowing walls of plants in nice thick groups. Clean, organized etc.

I think you folks need better photographers really, Amano is a very professional good photographer and in this hobby, pictures sell.

Many of the folks that like ADA also are good photographers, few that win contest do not also have good skills for the pictures.
You need both and a decent handle on the growing aspects/observation.

You might consider a dutch styling for the plant groups and subdivide the sections up with various driftwood.

This can look good and still win a contest there.

Just a thought.

Some said years ago I had a Dutch tank, I laughed.
I've actually never tried one in earnest. Parts of my tank may have been, but never the entire tank etc.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

I looked at the 2006 example and clearly it is better than the 1# place.
He did better work on the tank from the prior year, most members did actually.
Landelijke Huiskeuring 2006: gezelschapsaquaria
Tweede plaats W. van Wezel

He seems to do the best work in that contest.
I like that the red plants where kept in the rear, unlike the winner.
Looks better, more traditional and overall concept that the winner.

I'm not there in person though.
And it's not just about the top person, it's about making a nice tank that gets into the top 5 each year etc.

You can also view the water parameters, I'm not sure how accurate the measurement methods are however.

I know how much error is involved with CO2 ppm, NO3, PO4 etc.
Still, there is wide variation and some rather rich nutrient levels in some.
Tap water and timing for the measurement also influence things.

One thing that bugs me personally, there is that web site that uses the Redfiled ratio............. incorrectly.

The RR is an atomic ratio, it is not done by mass.
That algae article is off by a factor 2.2X as they entirely missed that issue if you account for mass, which is what is then applied to the atomic ratio.

It is a critical error.

N = 14 g/mol
P= 30.97 g/mol

Accounting for their difference in mass: 30.97/14 = 2.22

14 g/mol of Nitrogen/2.2 = 7.2 N:1P

Quite a bit different than 16:1.

FYI, most aquatic plants(out of say a field of 55 species analyzed) also have a ratio of N of 7:1.

If you convert to NO3O4, you get about 10:1 ratio.

So they need to address the basis of their assumption and correct it.
Basically they need to add 2.2x more PO4.

I sent a nice explanation, but never got any response.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Yes, many need to focus on the photography and computer skills, I've not been that great at those, but I know folks that are............I'm better at 35 mm film than I am at digital. But it's too easy to use digital, I do not get the clarity or colors I use to get. But I need to learn how to use the digital format better is the main issue.

Here's the link that has been references quite a few times in English speaking forums:

Free of algae with Redfield Ratio | Aquariumpagina's van Charles Buddendorf

When folks are clueless about why they have algae, they come with all sorts of reasons for the cure/issues etc.

It is not bad as some........it does address nutrients and adding them(N and P), much like the old PMDD theory about 12 years prior, but attributes success for the wrong reasons, which is really a massive problem and has been for the last 50 years in this hobby.

This is the old issue: aquarist assume that correlation = causation.
Correlation does not imply causation.

Back to your tank, think long a hard about the scape, think about the back ground, Cork bark etc. Think about what type of wood will look good with the plants, not just appeal to you without the plants.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

If you use slate, layer it from top to bottom, this will give a nice shingle effect.

Some have done it bottom to top and this allows for planting in the cracks etc for moss, Anubias, Ferns etc.

Cork bark is nice also and less work.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Generally no, you will do a lot more topping instead.

You top the plants, replant them if you have room and wait for the stumps to regrow.
No uprooting, you can do the uproot method also, bit it does well to not bother.

You can sculpt the cutting pattern and the new shoots will make a nice patterning, you have seen nice evenly cut/pruned Rotala?

Nice large sized balls of it?

That's how they do that, much like an evengreen hedge.
Some light vacuuming here and there is fine.
ADA As is not as forgiving IMO as sand/gravel etc however.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

I'll have to do some photos when I prune some sections at some point, I'm honestly bad about tank photos, etc, but like tot ake pics of natural systems.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

You pretty much prune like you might a green hedge that divides your property.
Or much like those mazes that use with hedges.

You can trim in whatever general shape, then you must wait a few weeks till the tips start regrowing again and fill in nice and thick.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

There are quite a few different articles for DIY backgrounds, foam etc.
A bunch of flat driftwood might also useful.



Regards,
Tom Barr