Non CO2 methods

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Tom Barr

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Re: Non CO2 methods

Yes, you defintiely should add TMG once a week. It does not need to be much. 10mls, or 2 x 5 mls. You can test the GH once a month or two to see if it's going up.down and then back off if it's going up or add more if it's going down.

Anubias seem to be trace sensitive which is odd for such a slow growing plant.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Patrice

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Re: Non CO2 methods

Hi Tom, the EI method gave me everything i need to not have algae anymore. Now, this non CO2 method seem even beter due to the fact that it need less to get as great result.
I have my 50g tank ready for the try. What do you think about 96w? is it to mutch?
 

Laith

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Re: Non CO2 methods

Tom, I think I'm going to give this method a try. I have an old 48l (12.5g) tank with a 15w light on it. Several questions:

- Is this lighting (1.2wpg) too low even for a non-CO2 tank? It's the lighting that came with the tank.

- My tapwater has a KH of 15 and a GH of 18-19. I can grow most plants in this water in hi-light CO2 setups. But for a tank without water changes, should one top off with tap water, or with RO water to limit the increase in GH? Another option of course would be to start off with 100% RO water, add Seachem Eq. and baking soda to get KH and GH to around 5 or 6 and then top off with RO water, adding the Eq. once in a while?
 

xofish

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Oct 2, 2006
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what and where to buy

Hi All,

First posting here. I have always been daunted by the hi-tech aspect of aquaria but came across this thread and am intrigued.

I live in NYC and do not have a decent local fish store nearby or at least something other than pet central. I want to start a 20gal tank that is easy maintenance like the ones described but where to start.

Would some kind soul be willing to give me a parts needs list or direct me to one?

Are my plant choices limited when using this kind of set up or are there specific types I should avoid and lean towards?

I was thinking of having a schooling group of fish and like that 'look'. I was leaning towards neon tetras but if someone suggests something else I would consider.

I think I read about an algae eater but I could not find the specific name?

I know, lots of questions, but beginners always are. Aren't they?

Thanks so much and hope this thread is not too old to get a response.

David:)
 

Tom Barr

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Patrice;7737 said:
Hi Tom, the EI method gave me everything i need to not have algae anymore. Now, this non CO2 method seem even beter due to the fact that it need less to get as great result.
I have my 50g tank ready for the try. What do you think about 96w? is it to mutch?

I'd use T5's at 1.5w/gal or less even.
Or about 80-100w T8's etc.
I think the watts are fine, but it's so bright right near the bulbs of the 96 watt lights, you'd better off raising it up at least 6-10". 10" would be okay ansd then you'd get a nice light spread. Not sure if you can do that with your hood or might be willing to DIY a hood that's that tall etc.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Tom Barr

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L- a 24 w T5 or a 20w T12 would be best.
A 24w T5 should be raised as suggested (6") in prior posting.

GH and KH will drop over time if you do not do water changes and prune and export plant biomass. So just use tap.
Top off with tap also.




Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Tom Barr

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xofish;10810 said:
Hi All,
Are my plant choices limited when using this kind of set up or are there specific types I should avoid and lean towards?

I was thinking of having a schooling group of fish and like that 'look'. I was leaning towards neon tetras but if someone suggests something else I would consider.

I think I read about an algae eater but I could not find the specific name?

I know, lots of questions, but beginners always are. Aren't they?

Thanks so much and hope this thread is not too old to get a response.

David:)

I think I mentioned several types previously in the article.
Generally easier bread and butter type plants are best, money wort, Java fern, water sprite, Egeria, Hygro's and the like.
Then you phase in harder to grow plants slowly.

Amano shrimp are suitable for smaller schooling fish.
Very good cleaners, SAE's also.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

richr

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Jan 20, 2006
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My non-CO2 experiences

I've been running an EI-method 72g for some time. I've had a lot of success with a wide variety of plants,

tank1.jpg


but now that I have a decent size fish load, dealing with algae issues has been a bit of a challenge.

On the other hand, I have a few smaller tanks with no EI or CO2 (and no ferts beyond fish food and wastes, and with easier, low light plants (egeria, anubias, ...) I've had a lot of luck as well.

tank2.jpg


I do weekly 50% water changes on all tanks, but other than that the non-CO2 have been low light, low work as Tom has suggested, but perhaps a little less interesting in some ways.
 

Henry Hatch

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Aug 31, 2006
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Tom,

I am interested in setting up a non co2 tank. I have a pressurized co2 tank and am getting ready to set up an excel tank and eventually a non co2 tank. It's winter in New England so what else am I going to do ? I would like to compare different methods. I have some questions on your article.

1. Can I use Eco complete for a substrate ? If it can be used do I still need mulm and a carbon source such as leonardite ? If I need it ,where can I get leonardite ?

2. Are any water changes ever needed ? If so, how much, when, what is the best way to do it ?

3. I was thinking about using a powerhead and sponge or power filter and floss for circulation. What do you suggest ? Is outgassing an issue ? I realize this is a non co2 tank but there will be small amounts of co2 present . Does this need to be preserved ?

Thanks.

Henry Hatch
 

Tom Barr

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HH,
Yes, EC will work great.
Leonardite may be added, mulm should be no matter what type of tank. Hydroponics stores sell it, Diamond Black or something or another.

WC are not needed unless you doa major rework/uprooting etc, once every 6months perhaps.

I'd personally use a canister filter or a HOB filter.
Never been a fan of internal filters, that's tank space better suited for other items(fish, plants etc).

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Henry Hatch

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Thanks Tom,

How's this for a substrate. 1" leonardite, a thin layer of gravel from an established tank on top of the leonadite. 2-3" of eco complete for top layer.

Henry
 

Tom Barr

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Try 1/2" or less of leonardite
It's a bit like peat.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Henry Hatch

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Aug 31, 2006
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Non co2 setup questions

I'm getting ready to set up my 20 gallon non co2 tank. I think any system of growing plants that rewards laziness is worth a try.

The light is a cheapo 2 bulb fixture with 30 watts of light with white gloss reflective material. I could not find any reflectors that fit this size fixture. Does anyone know where I might find reflectors to fit a 24" fixture ? Is there a simple DIY method for someone who isn't too handy that might work ? Since these lights are not very efficient could I add one more bulb for 45 watts which would normally be considered high for a non co2 tank this size ?

Also, I am planning to put in a small piece of wood which I anticipate will cause some discoloration. Since water changes will be infrequent, how can I remove the discoloration ? I am concerned activated carbon will remove trace elements. Is Purigen an option ?

Henry Hatch
 

Tom Barr

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These ideas are fine.
Mylar is what I used a few times and it was fine, I changed it after it got old and limey.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

milesm

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Oct 18, 2006
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hi tom,

i would like to start up a 2.5 nano, non-co2 tank, with primarily dwarf hairgrass, anubias and java fern on driftwood. lighting will be a 13w cf, with a parabolic reflector. no circulation. no filtration. no water changes. very little ferts, weekly or every other week. tap water is moderately soft, kh and gh 3 - 4. bioload will be fairly light, a trio of endlers, couple of ghost shrimp, maybe an otto.

i plan on using turface pro league, capped with lapis lustre sand to make planting easier and to help keep the slope from flattening. how much peat should i use? and how deep should the entire substrate be?

any other suggestions? thanks.

milesm
 

Tom Barr

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I think you'll have a rough time with this one.

Try adding a filter.

Trade the ghost for Amano shrimp.
A small bag of Onyx sand or ADA AS would be better.
Soil and sand will do better than the option you wanted.

The rest is fine.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 

milesm

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Oct 18, 2006
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thanks for the quick reply, tom.

as for it being a challenge, im up for it. :)

we are unable to get amano or cherry red shrimp, in Hawaii; in fact, i think there is a ban on the importation of all invertebrates, which i wholeheartedly agree with.

we've got a real problem with introduced species taking over and displacing native species. we've got established colonies of big plecos, convict and johanni cichlids, to name a few. we had an salvinia infestation in one of our lakes that required a multi-million dollar clean up effort. ok. off my soapbox.

onyx (and florite) are too expensive locally ($45+) and i've yet to see any ada products in lfs here.

i'll just use my turface and hope for the best. i'll also eschew a filter cuz i don't have one small enough, and i want to assemble this tank with stuff i already have.
 

milesm

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Oct 18, 2006
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vaughn,

i don't give my money to a company that charges double the shipping rates to Hawaii (and Alaska) customers.

i'll check other online vendors. btw, how far into the tank does that filter jut? thanks.
 

Tom Barr

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I have an extra Azoo sitting here, 5$ and actual shipping is fine with me.
Darn near new.

You are going to have issues, more than need be and a 5-8$ filter can easily solve 90% of them, up for a challange and being hard headed are two different things:p

Believe me, I've done that route myself and speak from a vast array of experiences.

I have had 6-8 nanos in this range for about 3 years now.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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