whats the deal with nesaea pedicellata?

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samh

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Nov 16, 2010
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Thanks guys for the detailed responses i feel like i'm heading on the right track in the way of co2. My problem may still be in the way of increasing flow through the reactors, maybe by selling my current brand name manufactured reactors and diy'ing my own larger volume ones out of pvc similar to the one Tom did, clear pvc seems hard to find down here.

My question about increasing o2 aeration when co2 is off was to determine if the increased o2 levels would carry over to the early stages of the photoperiod when the plants haven't produced enough o2 themselves.

To put it clearer haha becuase i'm not very good at explaining myslef and i'm grateful for your patience:). I'm using a ph controller i have set the level on the controller to click off just before the fish start to gasp, this was done late in the photperiod. In the morning though the fish are breathing quite heavy until halfway through the photoperiod which i presume is when the plants have produced enough o2 to unstress the fish...

Hope this makes sense .... :confused:
 
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Biollante

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Oh Well… If I Am Hijacking A Thread May As Well Hijack It Good!


Hi jaafaman,

Aesthetics are a fine reason for doing anything that is otherwise, safe, legal and ethical. :)


The fact is that CO[SUB]2[/SUB] is cheap, readily available, and depending on your politics of global warming, generally harmless.


In and of itself there is nothing wrong with using the aquarium as a CO[SUB]2[/SUB] reactor, the problem comes with the unsupported speculation stated as fact.

The basic glass diffusers so popular in our hobby are essentially taken from the wastewater industry and are very efficient means of placing CO[SUB]2[/SUB] in solution in a 10 foot (305 centimeter) column of water moving at 3 miles-per-hour (~5 kilometer-per-hour). The major problem I see is that most of our aquariums are less than 10 feet deep and even the highest turnover systems come nowhere near 3 miles-an-hour in water flow.

In your 75-gallon tank, let’s assume 70-gallons of water (265 liters) to keep 30-ppm CO[SUB]2[/SUB] you need to maintain 8-grams of CO[SUB]2[/SUB] in solution plus gas exchange loss and plant use.
A reasonably efficient way to accomplish that are the simple counter-flow devices you see all over the place, here many of them use powerheads to generate the flow.

I have used gravel vacuum and a small pump to run an 80-gallon tank for many years with diy CO[SUB]2[/SUB]. Overall I manage something over 33-ppm CO[SUB]2[/SUB], though it all comes down to circulation and flow.


What we actually see is not a smooth distribution of CO[SUB]2[/SUB] but shifting areas of higher concentrations. ;)


Actually Fick’s laws tell us that we should expect that, though for whatever reasons this angers many Gurus,:eek: I am not sure why.:confused: Could be they just harbor ill will toward Adolf Fick?


Since water with CO[SUB]2[/SUB] in solution is heavier than water without, there is a downward component to the flow. We see eddies forming and collapsing, this seems to provide a distributive advantage to systems that have an overall direction of flow.:)


I tend to like end to end flows, I refer to them as uphill-downhill, Dutchy describes a flow that I have seen as quite effective that is rather as you describe, front to back.


These directional flows seem to also help even the distribution of nutrients and oxygen as well.:cool:


Biollante

 
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Biollante

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CPF---Critters First Policy


Hi Sam,

If the fish are showing any signs of distress, difficulty in breathing, run the air stones.:gw



Particularly until your system is mature, a year or so, there are any numbers of reasons for oxygen depletion. You need to make and keep the environment safe for your critters. ;)


A problem with our systems is that different elements are in direct competition for the same resources, a very efficient biological filtration system is another way of saying that the bugs in the filter have won the resource battle, possibly at the expense of your favorite fish or plant.:rolleyes:


It is all so marvelously complex!:gw:cool:


Biollante

 
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samh

Guru Class Expert
Nov 16, 2010
193
0
16
SE QLD Australia
Alright after following the fert regime suggested by biollante I have noticed a definite improvement in some species of plants. however co2 may still be an issue. I'm running a ph controller after trying the solenoid and timer thing for a while with no obvious change. With the ph controller I reach my gasping point in roughly 45-60 mins. The bubble rate is quite high there's no separation between bubbles in the counter. I'm testing to see how this goes with the current feet regime.

One question though I think my gh is fluctuating. I was told to dose 3tsp of caso4 and 1tsp of mgso4 3 times a week. I notice though that this seems to be altering the gasping point in which I set the controller the day after I dose the calcium and magnesium. It was originally set to 5.8 at beginning of the week now at the end it's 5.98 and I've seen this happen both weeks?

Will this dosing be raising the ph? Can I reduce this dose to 1 or2 a week?

Sam
 
Phishless

Phishless

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Sadly the revival of many of these old threads is futile.
Many involved in this thread have not been seen in 5-7 years.

Ammannia pedicellata was one I was growing well and selling for quite some time.
Senegalensis was even better but I've sold it off completely over a year ago.
I've got some gracilis that looks like pig vomit right now, soon to the trash.

Any pics of this lucky plant???
 
Phishless

Phishless

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Does not look like emersed or submerged ammannia golden.
Looks more like a ludwigia species in your pic.

Going from red to yellow could be not enough light?

A quick search on the web and maybe you can positively identify?
 
Phishless

Phishless

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Stan510 said:
The middle has to be Ammania gracilis. The first might be Nesaea. The internet just mixes those two at will.
Sellers use the same photo for both plants at times.
Click to expand...

Nesaea and ammannia are one in the same, still mixed at will.
Several other plants fall under this too!

Ludwigia sp. red is a red plant, it will come off green in low light say under 30PAR.
 
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