So a couple pieces of the brass setup broke today and I might be in the market for a CO2 regulator setup. It must be S.S., dual stage and a solenoid I can control off my Apex. Anyone got any they are selling?
WTB-Regulator Setup (S.S.)
- Thread starter UDGags
- Start date
Might want to contact Tom. He had a few units that were pre-built and stainless, IIRC. Be prepared to pay if you want a full stainless set-up. Brass or stainless doesn't matter. The material has nothing to do with durability or dependability. Cheap components are the #1 reason for failure.
oldpunk;123621 said:
I have a GLA Supreme CO2 Regulator (few years old) and would need a new solenoid (unless I can get the brass part out that broke inside). I actually bought $12 worth of brass fittings yesterday to make it work without the solenoid. I'm looking at both options to see what would be best long term. I eventually want to setup a second tank as well and it is tax return season so I was just testing the waters to see what was available.
The other option is building my own, which should be pretty easy but I wasn't sure if I wanted to put the time into that right now. I would spend too much time research parts, etc.
Doesn't really take much time or research. Most of the research has been done already. Tom has a few better quality units for sale in stainless. Any the Burkerts he uses are sure to last longer than the GLA solenoids. PM me if you need any help. The problem is, most people either can't afford a quality unit or don't want to put the money up for one. They end up dealing with headaches and ultimately put more money into equipment when their cheap regulator/solenoid fails.
Another option is to contact Orlando and see if he is willing to fix the GLA unit under warranty.
Another option is to contact Orlando and see if he is willing to fix the GLA unit under warranty.
UDGags;123644 said:
We can certainly fix anything on your reg. Being 3 years old likely might be an old Clippard valve. Our new solenoid uses no brass parts, only SS for valve seat,sleeve and poppet. Our new valve has a zero failure rate to date. It's much better than Burkert valves no doubt about it. Shoot us an email or message and we can see exactly what is broken. I'm
What part exactly is broken?
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We can certainly fix anything on your reg. Being 3 years old likely might be an old Clippard valve. Our new solenoid uses no brass parts, only SS for valve seat,sleeve and poppet. Our new valve has a zero failure rate to date. It's much better than Burkert valves no doubt about it. Shoot us an email or message and we can see exactly what is broken. I'm
What part exactly is broken?
What part exactly is broken?
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We can certainly fix anything on your reg. Being 3 years old likely might be an old Clippard valve. Our new solenoid uses no brass parts, only SS for valve seat,sleeve and poppet. Our new valve has a zero failure rate to date. It's much better than Burkert valves no doubt about it. Shoot us an email or message and we can see exactly what is broken. I'm
What part exactly is broken?
Not only that but I was able to post from inside an airport terminal
With that said, why does my post look like a double post?
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Not only that but I was able to post from inside an airport terminal
With that said, why does my post look like a double post?
With that said, why does my post look like a double post?
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Not only that but I was able to post from inside an airport terminal
With that said, why does my post look like a double post?
Thanks for personally responding Orlando. I haven't had time to follow up on this. I've been busy at work/RL. I'm pretty sure it's outside the 3yr window...probably more like 4-5yrs. I know I have the original paperwork in a folder but I just haven't had time to look at it. I checked my account on your website but I think I bought it when you had older software (you we're active over on TPT). Basically, it broke in two places. The first is the fitting that goes into the solenoid cracked at the joint and second the fitting at the bubble counter. The bubble counter is pointless in my system since I use so much CO2 so I'm not worried about that. I think if I can get the brass piece out of the solenoid and the actual solenoid is not damaged it can be used again with a simple $2/part or two from the hardware store. We have a machine shop here at work I'm going to bring it into to see if they can tap the brass piece to remove it. I tried pliers but had no luck.
Here's a picture of it from 1.5yrs ago...
The forum has been bugged for months. You need to edit your post to delete the double post. If you're an admin it literally posts twice (Tom, Gerry, etc.).
Here's a picture of it from 1.5yrs ago...
The forum has been bugged for months. You need to edit your post to delete the double post. If you're an admin it literally posts twice (Tom, Gerry, etc.).
Warranty periods are never set in stone so don't worry on that.
It sounds like your co2 reg took a dive? Breaking brass fittings is no easy task, but are also easily replaced. It would be good to see the parts you need. Sounds like a 1/8" NPT fitting broke and your check valve connection. Tank fell over?
I'm typing this from the worst airport in the world LAX so sorry if my typing sucks. I'm trying to escape this madness of a place and should be home base in a few hours.
If your shop can't remove the fitting let me know. I can send you a new valve body easily.
Feel free to shoot me an email as well anytime.
PS
I'll try and work in editing my post when I get back to headquarters and have a cold beverage
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It sounds like your co2 reg took a dive? Breaking brass fittings is no easy task, but are also easily replaced. It would be good to see the parts you need. Sounds like a 1/8" NPT fitting broke and your check valve connection. Tank fell over?
I'm typing this from the worst airport in the world LAX so sorry if my typing sucks. I'm trying to escape this madness of a place and should be home base in a few hours.
If your shop can't remove the fitting let me know. I can send you a new valve body easily.
Feel free to shoot me an email as well anytime.
PS
I'll try and work in editing my post when I get back to headquarters and have a cold beverage
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Yes, just replace those 2 part fittings and you are done.
Sometimes when putting those fittings together, we over tighten them and the quality tolerances on some of these cheapy brass fittings is well..........so the male ends nearest the threads can break next to the female entry. This is where the most stress is and the thinnest pipe thickness.
So we can have awesome Solenoids, and regs, but crack those cheapy parts, SS can also have this, but it's less likely, they have more issues with the threads themselves or out right breakage if you over tighten.
I've done it.
I've also seen folks break the fittings in those same spots by bumping it or hitting it etc while changing a reg/tank etc.
Sometimes when putting those fittings together, we over tighten them and the quality tolerances on some of these cheapy brass fittings is well..........so the male ends nearest the threads can break next to the female entry. This is where the most stress is and the thinnest pipe thickness.
So we can have awesome Solenoids, and regs, but crack those cheapy parts, SS can also have this, but it's less likely, they have more issues with the threads themselves or out right breakage if you over tighten.
I've done it.
I've also seen folks break the fittings in those same spots by bumping it or hitting it etc while changing a reg/tank etc.
Yeah, I figured it was just over tightening and/or fatigue over time. I've only tightened each piece once or twice I believe so I'm leaning towards over tightening. The tank hasn't fallen over. I honestly wasn't too worried about it since I knew they break. It's a simple fix but the point of this thread was to see what S.S. options people had available. As Tom said S.S. is going to last longer so I wanted to weigh my options. I bought it back on Nov 18th, 2010 and I'm very happy with how it's worked. I've bought other products from GLA because of the service I got when I first bought this setup. As shown in this thread that same service still exists.
Since I'm sure some might be curious here is a picture of the two breaks
Since I'm sure some might be curious here is a picture of the two breaks
The only way to fix what you have there is to get a couple of easy outs, a new 1/8npt hex nipple and a 1/8 hose barb x 1/8npt male fitting. You'd have to ask Orlando if those fittings where put together with an epoxy. That might make it hard to get them out (the broken parts.) They should still come out regardless.
If you did want to upgrade to a better regulator, you could pretty much reuse the whole post body and have a pretty sweet unit for cheap, but I guess you didn't want to invest much time into the whole thing. If gla volunteers to fix it at cost or under warranty, that would be the easiest but not the fastest way to go.
If you did want to upgrade to a better regulator, you could pretty much reuse the whole post body and have a pretty sweet unit for cheap, but I guess you didn't want to invest much time into the whole thing. If gla volunteers to fix it at cost or under warranty, that would be the easiest but not the fastest way to go.
Yeah, I wouldn't waste my time getting those threads out of the solenoid. Maybe contact Orlando to see if you could buy replacement parts, since it looks as though you over-torqued the fittings to cause the break. FWIW, I recently broke a Swagelok B-2C4-1/3 and had to replace the part on my dime since it was my fault for over torqueing. I broke a forged piece of brass! Couldn't believe it.
Tom Barr;123739 said:
I am no longer looking for a new setup. Orlando at Green Leaf Aquariums, where I originally bought it, helped me out tremendously. Thanks everyone