Would like to setup a mazzei venturi, HELP!

I have no experience with the Fluval. But for your mazzie. Contact Ryan Herco Export Sales.

You may also find someone on this board who tried a 384 and moved on to a 4/5 series instead who would be willing to sell and ship to you.

You may want to consider a needle wheel pump instead with your setup. Your already adding the extra pump, and needle wheel pumps do a nice job. Just another option.

Good luck with your setup.

 

Look for GerryD's thread on Mazzei setup. I believe he has tried the 384 and the 4/5 series. The 4/5 are the 484 and 584 models. Breakdown of different mazzei units.

Mag Drive makes a needle wheel pump.

Tom has a thread here on modifying impellers yourself to achieve the same thing.

I personally just use a DIY modified impeller. I found that it works just as well as the premade models. So if you have a pump already then why order another. But if you don't then buying a prepackaged unit would probably be worth it.

The pro's I would see in your scenario for a needle wheel over a mazzei:

• Will boost flow somewhat from Canister
• No maintenance on a mazzei. Never used one myself so others may want to chime in on this.
• Will not rely on a given pressure for consistency. Which I would see in your setup being problematic. Pump after Canister. As the Canister becomes restricted you will loose effeciency of the mazzei.

One thing to also look at as far as NW type setups. Your CO2 will get chopped into a nice mist. And the longer the run of tubing the more dissovled it will become before reaching the tank. Which is something Tom has mentioned a few times.

 

Hi,

Please note that a Mazzei needs a decent amount of PRESSURE to generate the mist/dissolution we want. So, high flow pumps will not work as well as high pressure pumps that may flow less gph. Look at Iwaki as opposed to mag drives.

I think either the 384 or 584 will work just as well. I have used both on my 180 and see no difference in performance if I just swap them out.

Not sure how you will plumb this. Your venturi pump will need a source of water to push into the venturi. If the outlet of the canister is this source, then it will decrease as the filter clogs and the venturi performance will suffer as Jdowns advised.

You will always need to keep up on filter maintenance (not a bad thing) and keep an eye on the c02 levels.

I would most likely ditch the fx5 and do the following:

Read a lot of mazzei and plumbing threads I and others have generated LOL Not sure which one Jdowns was referring to specifically but will be in the c02 forum.

1. Get a decent Iwaki 40 or 70 or similar.
2. Investigate the Nu-Clear or Ocean Clear canisters. I use both a mech and a bio model and run three parallel legs.
3. Plumb the canister choice from step #2 and the mazzei on two parallel legs. This will force more water to the mazzei when the filter clogs and you will get better performance from your c02, so watch for that as well.
4. Then combine the two parallel lines back to one and back to the tank.

You are now powering both components with one pump.

OR

1. Keep the fx5 and get a needle wheel powerhead and use that to generate your c02 mist and diffusion.

Option 2 is the easiest IMO. I like the first option as that is what I do lol
Plus I like to experiment a little but the needle wheel will be in the tank whereas the venturi is outside of it.

IMO you do not need a ph controller at all. It certainly does not 'control' the mazzei in any way. That is done by controlling the PRESSURE that gets to the mazzei.

Just use a timer to have c02 solenoid come on say 60-90 minutes prior to lights on and turn c02 off about 30-45 minutes prior to lights off.

Hope all this helps.

 

The pump is submersible and cannot be used externally.

 

You could do a bypass two ways.

Wye off of the intake with one leg to the Fluval the other to Mag, or wye off of the Fluval output much like a Mazzei setup. Both would be easy and a preferred method IMO.

Just running the pump as a booster with no bypass is a bad idea IMO. Not knowing what pressures the Fluval can handle. A pump after the Fluval and if suction is lost cavitation could occur. Before the Fluval and you could rupture seals. Always better to be safe and allow a bypass.

If you run a wye prior to the Fluval I personally would use a true wye to ensure maximum pull from the tank.

 

That looks fine and would be the way that I would run it in that scenario. If either unit shuts down or fails then it won't affect the other. You could use a T at the input branch for the Mag here if needed. The path of least resistance would dictate flow will come from the tank and not backwards from the Fluval, even if Fluval were off. I prefer to use true wyes, they don't cost much more, and are more effecient.

 

Yes that first image is a tru wye, second is a tee.