What's missing ?

[charter]

I have a 150 with 384 watt PC strip that is only 8 in. wide and 72 in. long. I believe this is to narrow and is the root of my problem (Ludwiga is green, Water sprite is brown, with a little hint of green) Its C)2 injected and I use the EI method. There is black and green Algae growing on the leaves and glass so I cut back on the amount of all ferts to starve the Algae out . I think more light is needed but would like other opinions please

 

[Professor Myers]

"I cut back on the amount of all ferts to starve the Algae out ".

That's a charming notion, but it doesn't work. Algae will adapt more quickly to the deficiency, and the plants metabolism will be suppressed allowing the algae to gain a greater foothold. This is one of the greater points of EI (Ample nutrients for the plants at all times)

This is only a temporary solution at best until you acquire better lighting. AH Supply Compact Fluorescent Lighting Kits should be able to get you set up properly straight away. HTH Prof M

Edit: What are the dimensions of the tank ? What spectrum is the lighting ?? Is the tank open topped ???

 

[VaughnH]

You aren't likely to have too little light, with 384 watts of PC light on a 150 gallon tank. But, you are very likely to have too little CO2 unless you use a drop checker to measure it. And, you are more likely to be short of one or more ferts than you are to be dosing so much that it would affect the algae growth at the expense of the plants.

 

[charter]

The tank is 72x18x27 my light strip (6700K & 10,000K ) is only 8in. wide, thats why I think the light is not spreading out to allow for good growth. I do have a drop checker (Red Sea ) with 4 KH solution. PH is around 6.7-6.8 Pinpoint PH Mon. I have four in. of eco complete and an allglass top.
The fert amounts are as follows : 2tsp. KNO3 1/2 tsp. KH2PO4 1/2 tsp. K2SO4 and 75 ml. of plantex CSM+B 3x a week.
This tank has me confused , my other tank is a 110 gal.(48x18x30) it to has 384 watts and it has never had algea and the plants are doing well.

 

[VaughnH]

Another factor could be water circulation. If there isn't enough water circulation around the tank, some areas could have much less CO2 than the drop checker shows for the location where it is.

I assume both of your tanks get similar routine maintenance, so that doesn't seem like it would be the problem. That leaves me without any more suggestions.

 

[charter]

For the 150 I have one XP4 Rena and a Magnum 350. I use the Magnum as a CO2 reactor as well as a filter. I do around 40% W/C's weekly. I have 4 tanks so I skimp a little to save some $$. Newport PA. water is expensive NO,NO,NO, it's ridiculous.

 

[Professor Myers]

"I have one XP4 Rena and a Magnum 350"

These are merely model numbers...Not flow rates !

"Help me...Help you" ! I'm more concerned with your actual question than your hardware.

 

[charter]

My flow rates are XP4= 450 GPH and the Magnum is 350 GPH. I keep them clean so they continue to perform at their optimum level. I have learned over the past months that the CO2 and PH fluctuates quite a bit as the filters flow rates would drop. To prevent this I alternate the cleaning times of the filters every two weeks.

 

[Professor Myers]

My flow rates are XP4= 450 GPH and the Magnum is 350 GPH. I keep them clean so they continue to perform at their optimum level. I have learned over the past months that the CO2 and PH fluctuates quite a bit as the filters flow rates would drop. To prevent this I alternate the cleaning times of the filters every two weeks.

We have a similar configuration on my wife's tank using an Eheim 2078, and an Eheim 2217 for 490 GPH and 264 GPH so the circulation volume is quite similar. Still we suffer no such problems ? Then aqain this is on a 50 gal. aquarium W/ skimming, and the Co2 is switched off at night ! Overkill..? Yes ! But the water is crystal clear, tank looks like a Tarzan movie, Plants are a Deep Emerald Green, Fish are thriving, and No Algae. I doubt it's neccessary...but Hey ! Smoke Em if Ya Got Em !!!

 

[Tom Barr]

I'd use 2 of the Rena's personally.

Clean them often, you can also use sponge prefilters on the intakes to reduce the work there. I think it's better using a wider hood personally.

You will get better spread as a 150 is 24" wide(standard sizing anyway).
A stripe light is not the best. You can raise it up higher, say 10" above the glass lid, but that might not be what you want either. You have enough light even there.

I like the T5's they let you place lights all over the top without too much light watts coming in. A&H also sells the DIY where you place the lights anywhere etc.

I really hate stripe lights, they are designed for narrow tall deep tanks only.
They give poor color strike for fish also, the fish only get a good color from the lights in a very narrow band in the tank rather than the entire tank.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[charter]

Tom this tank is a Perfecto,its 17 years old and only 18in. wide and 27 in.deep 6 feet long. I thought the light would work out well live and learn. I talked to AH supply about an idea and would like your opinion.

Using 4 65 watt 6700K and 2 96 watt 10,000K in a home made hanging canopy with the lights on timers that would allow for controlled WPG.

This tank has 6 huge Amazon swords full of runners and 12 assorted Anubia's, Water Sprite and onion grass how well does the EI method do for the root feeders ? I use Seachem root tabs every 2 months for each Sword. I ask this question to see if its possible that I'm adding to much of the ferts. They may not be used fast enough even with the 40% W/C's that it is allowing for the algea to live

 

[VaughnH]

Most algae will continue to thrive in the tank once they get a good start, unless you remove it or kill it or both. Green spot algae seem to go away when you add more phosphate, but the others seem to me to just keep on going until you physically intervene. Excess fertilizer isn't involved in this phenomena. It seems that the secret to avoiding algae is not to let it start, or if it does, to quickly get it out of the tank. That has been, I think, why my victories in the Battle of the Algae have been very rare - as rare perhaps as my following the above advice.

 

[charter]

I added a second XP4 and the sponge prefilters , a powerhead with the sponge base to help increase the circulation. I still use an airpump when the lights go out and the CO2 is on a timer. In this tank I have a large PH swing from 7.0 in the morning to 6.6 before the lights go out. The Watersprite has become a huge bush the Oniongrass and Anubia's have new leaves. The problem is the Amazon's. They have holes and turning yellow then brown and the current is able to tear them. The newer leaves look ok. I use Seachem root tabs. There is pearling on the Watersprite and streaming coming from the tears and holes of the Amazon's. I reference the pearling as I read it is a sign of health in a planted tank