Hi guys,
Just refreshing my memory, a good needle valve -
1. Has metal valve seats, rather than plastic (less likely to shift settings due to ambient temp changes)
2. Is made of a higher grade of metal than cheaper alternatives (lower coefficient of thermal expansion)
3. Has a finer thread
4. Provides better knob resistance contributing to holding setting
Would I be correct in assuming that the popular Fabco, Swagelok and Ideal valves have all 4 of these qualities (whereas my current ebay needle valve doesn't) ?
That said, why would the Ideal be better than the much cheaper Fabco?
Also, before I forget, are all the popular specs of these brands good for both low and high bubble rates?
For example, could I use the Fabco successfully in both a 1 bubble per second and an uncountable bubbles per second scenario?
In my case, my bubble rate is currently so fast it's impossible to count on my 100g.
Scott.
Just refreshing my memory, a good needle valve -
1. Has metal valve seats, rather than plastic (less likely to shift settings due to ambient temp changes)
2. Is made of a higher grade of metal than cheaper alternatives (lower coefficient of thermal expansion)
3. Has a finer thread
4. Provides better knob resistance contributing to holding setting
Would I be correct in assuming that the popular Fabco, Swagelok and Ideal valves have all 4 of these qualities (whereas my current ebay needle valve doesn't) ?
That said, why would the Ideal be better than the much cheaper Fabco?
Also, before I forget, are all the popular specs of these brands good for both low and high bubble rates?
For example, could I use the Fabco successfully in both a 1 bubble per second and an uncountable bubbles per second scenario?
In my case, my bubble rate is currently so fast it's impossible to count on my 100g.
Scott.