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Water Change Method for Large Aquarium

Discussion in 'General Plant Topics' started by Tomkashi, Oct 14, 2015.

  1. Tomkashi

    Tomkashi Junior Poster

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    Hello Folks I have a 300G tank up and running to test the equipment, all is good. Before I add plants I'd like to know if anybody has any water change suggestions to make the process as quick, simple, and safe as possible (for fish and home). I've used a python to drain and return tap water straight to a smaller tank in the past, and that worked great, but I'm anticipating some challenges going straight into the tank with tap water if it gets too cool and is untreated...plus a lot of time. I'm planning 50% wc once a week with EI dosing. Looking forward to your suggestions.
     
    #1 Tomkashi, Oct 14, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 14, 2015
  2. Solcielo lawrencia

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    Use a dechlorinator. Dose for the full volume, not the water change volume, then refill.
     
  3. UDGags

    UDGags Lifetime Charter Member
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    I do exactly what Solcielo said


    Drain out the 50%, add dechlorinator to the tank and then refill directly from tap water.


    If you want to speed it up buy a small submersible pump to speed up removing the 50%. Much quicker than a normal siphon.
     
  4. Tomkashi

    Tomkashi Junior Poster

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    Thanks for the advice. I'm a little concerned about maintaining temperature with that large water volume and the sump ( with heaters) not flowing during the change. I'm going to have a large school of cardinals and they have a reputation for being sensitive to temperature. I'll start with a small group and see how it goes.
     
  5. Sukrol

    Sukrol Member

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    To drain buy the biggest tubing you can find. i.e. Pond ribbed tubing. I've had massive fish death due to my water company "flushing" their system between seasons so now I "age" all of my water in 55Gal containers. I'm getting ready to buy a 160 gal water tank to age the water...
     
  6. Julia Adkins

    Julia Adkins aquariumfertilizer.com
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    I totally disagree with this massive water change. It is hard on everyone. Massive water changes like that mean that the waste products build up almost to the point of making the fish ill. Think living in your own toilet until someone comes along to flush it. And it throws the water chemistry off which then requires adjustment. It is much better to keep the water chemistry more in homeostatic balance. I advocate for a smaller water change of closer to 1/4 of the water twice a week. This can be done by making a PVC U-shape arrangement where the end you put in the tank only reaches down to where you the want the water to drain. The other piece can be much longer as it will help with the siphon and have a hose connection. Put the hose end out into your garden or yard. Start the siphon and drain. Feed the water back into the tank through your sump filter with the heater. This avoids the shock of much colder water directly into the tank.
     
  7. UDGags

    UDGags Lifetime Charter Member
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    I have cardinals in my tank...both wild and tank bred. No issues with them. I basically learned where the hot/cold faucets needed to be to get the right temperature.


    I'm set at 77-78F on my tank and after a 50% water change its ranged from 75-82F with no issues. Going on 3 years now....
     
  8. UDGags

    UDGags Lifetime Charter Member
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    Usually, in planted tanks the issue is build-up of fertz from EI. This is why a minimum 50% water change is done. Most waste is used up by the plants/bacteria.
     
  9. Solcielo lawrencia

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    Adding cold water can induce spawning behavior.
     
  10. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    For a 300 Gallon tank, a larger hose is needed, the Flexogen hoses are nice. They make 1" and then you get 1" U shaped PVC with those Rainbow plastic strainers on the two T shaped ends.


    This prevents fish from being sucked up and prevents the water coming in like a hose blaster.


    Drain and then take the end and attach to the shower heat to refill with temp adjusted tap water, add dechlorinator as you refill.


    Add ferts, restart pumps.


    You can do 1/3 or 1/2, you can see what works, but either range or alternate should pose little risk.


    Another thing, your hot water heat likely does not have enough capacity to produce enough for a 70% water change, maybe a 30-50%.
     
  11. vilenarios

    vilenarios Junior Poster

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    Hi Tom -


    " They make 1" and then you get 1" U shaped PVC with those Rainbow plastic strainers on the two T shaped ends. "


    Is there a picture of this? Im trying to imagine it, as it sounds like a great idea I should adopt for my water change system.
     
  12. Disco Frank

    Disco Frank Junior Poster

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    this what i use to refill


    [​IMG]


    garden hose attaches to the top, and pipe work has holes drilled in it to allow for slow flow of water


    other end of hose goes to the laundry and i can mix the hot and cold to get around 21-25 deg


    works fine when i do a 50% change on a 800 litre tank


    still have a heap of hot water left


    got to love living in AUS with a 300 litre solar hot water unit :)
     
  13. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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  14. Julia Adkins

    Julia Adkins aquariumfertilizer.com
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    I stick with my original statement about smaller water changes. If you are having a problem with fertilizers building up in the tank then you are putting too much in the tank. This is wasteful. It wastes the fertilizers and does not help your plants be healthier. It does not help the fish. You waste water as well and make to drastic changes in the water chemistry. I am willing to bet that many simply let the water drain into the sink and don't even use this fertilizer filled water on their outdoor gardens or potted plants. Am I right???
     
  15. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    In this hobby? No one's ever right.


    I agree, aged water seems to be more natural and stable.


    Large water changes just seems like your adding artificial water which i didn't say wasn't a good thing


    rids of algae, plants take up whatever from the tap


    But why is large water changes suggested for discus, and they need to keep their nice circle structure as well as feedings and feeding and feedings


    The drastic changes doesn't really take place, you started with the same water, its just aged, definitely good for plants, but why for fish too like discus? Cause it takes out all the wastes?


    Me being in Cali though, we need to save water, though no one cares including myself. I'll start drinking toilet water!


    guess this is my response, just jibberjabbering
     
  16. Julia Adkins

    Julia Adkins aquariumfertilizer.com
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    I like the set up that is hard plumbed to the house, the hot water and the cold from the laundry. That is kind of what we had. The tanks were hard plumbed to the house. There was a timer that started the tanks draining in the middle of the night. The float valve made it so the water started refilling almost immediately. It was timed to drain and refill for long enough to change out 1/3 of the tank water twice a week. We never had any problems with algae or an imbalance of water chemistry. Before that we had a set up like Tom's with the PVC U attached to a hose that was put out a window or door near the tank to have a water change. The waste water was drained out to the plants in the yard. Easy to use and of course the larger the house the faster the drain. We used a shop vacuum hose on one tank. It would drain 30 gallons in about 3 minutes!
     
    #16 Julia Adkins, Oct 27, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 27, 2015
  17. kenle74

    kenle74 New Member

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    I have a large tank (670 gallon) planted tank, and recently added automatic water change. Here is how I did it:


    1. Drainage - every 4 hours, for 25 minutes. Thru a wall to the outside garden. About 10 gallon. Using an automatic timer.


    2. Refill - water from faucet (cold) going through a hose timer (set every 3 hours for 40 minutes), to a float valve --> a 50-gallon reservoir --> pumped into the sump (every 3 hours for 6 minutes) and this pump is also controlled by a float valve.


    So far, the fish and plants seem to do well.
     
  18. ctyank

    ctyank Junior Poster

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    Why dose for the entire tank volume when adding tap directly into the tank? Wouldn't the dechlorination ability of the chemical deal with a fixed amount of chlorine/Chloramine regardless of the volume of H2O?
     
  19. UDGags

    UDGags Lifetime Charter Member
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    Chemically, it's based on concentration in the water. If you add 10g of powder to 50gal or 10g to 100gal you have two different concentrations. You need the correct concentration for it to work correctly.
     
  20. ctyank

    ctyank Junior Poster

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    Ah. that makes sense. Ok, thanks! I guess I'll be buying more Prime more often.
     
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