Water change 50%

Dusko

Prolific Poster
Apr 20, 2006
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Sweden
Hi Tom and Co.,
I was wondering what to do. Since I have to start performing 50% water change according to the Estimative Index, I will do it with a hose. It is much easier and faster.
My problem is chloramine. I will of course add the water back to the aquarium through the hose.
How do you condition the water, since the tap water enters the tank? When using the bucket I would condition the water first before introducing it in to the tank.

I was using Estimative Index method in my low light CO2 injected 180 liters fully planted tank for a couple of month now, but did only 20% water change.
Yes I have lots of Thread algae, Green Beard algae (trimmed by the SAE) and Staghorn algae. Little BBA on Java Moss (SAE trimming).

I am off to buy a hose now.

Regards, Dusko.
 

Frolicsome_Flora

Guru Class Expert
Jan 12, 2007
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Dorset, UK
Dusko;16863 said:
Hi Tom and Co.,
I was wondering what to do. Since I have to start performing 50% water change according to the Estimative Index, I will do it with a hose. It is much easier and faster.
My problem is chloramine. I will of course add the water back to the aquarium through the hose.
How do you condition the water, since the tap water enters the tank? When using the bucket I would condition the water first before introducing it in to the tank.


Regards, Dusko.

drain out what you want, add the treatment for the water that will go in, add the water.. job done :) no need to condition it first, so long as the tank has the conditioner in it before you add it. :)

Happy hose hunting, it really makes a huge difference using a hose, a standard hose also fits perfectly tightly in the standard fluval hose ends, so you can use a hose to pump out as well.
 

Dusko

Prolific Poster
Apr 20, 2006
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Thanks for the reply.
I hunted down the hose. This is the first time I can say I enjoyed the water change :D

Regards, Dusko.
 

Tom Barr

Founder
Staff member
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Jan 23, 2005
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I always just added SeaChem Prime of Amquel or an equivalent in Sweden to the water right prior to refilling the tank.

I just make sure the temp is slightly cooler than the tank water.
Add the dechorinator(the types that handles Choramines) and that's it.

If you are interested, you can add a carbon filter right by the refill location, or for the whole house or drinking water, shower etc.

That will remove that and organics, and give a better flavor to the water.

Go in attack that algae good, drop the light down some, add SeaChem Excel if you can get a hold of it there. Add a bit more CO2, trim and attack the algae.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 

Dusko

Prolific Poster
Apr 20, 2006
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e96c06c5.jpg


The water already looks crispy after the large water change.
I have to trim the Lilaeopsis though since it is covered in Hair algae. Java Moss also, it has lots of Thread, BBA and Staghorn :eek: closer to the light source, I guess.

Rotala rotundifolia, Crinum calamistratum and Alternathera reineckii resist the algae though.

Anubias spp, Microsorum spp and Crypto spp don't have much problems either (only the older leaves, but that I will cut off).

At the moment I am out of PMDD, so dosing NaNO3 in stead + TMG.
For this 180 liters I dose 3 times a week half of tea spoon NaNo3 and 5ml of TMG.

Tom you suggested to add a bit more CO2. How much is more? This is a low light 1Wpg tank. I can't lower the light anymore and I dose 2 bubbles per second through the venturi already. Should I dose more? Just to mention, my CO2 runs 24/7, I don't think it would be fair to my fish though.

Kind regards, Dusko.