This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.
    Dismiss Notice

Wanted: A reliable CO2 system for large planted tanks

Discussion in 'CO2 Enrichment' started by wolfewill, Feb 10, 2015.

  1. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
    Staff Member Administrator

    Jan 23, 2005
    Likes Received:
    Local Time:
    8:08 AM
    Tell you what, I'll make one for you, charge you 2x as much as it cost me and guarantee it for life.

    Still interested? Cause that's all anyone else is going to do.

    I use to make them commercially for about 3-4 years. I might know a thing or two or three or four about it.

    I'm much more the type that will tell you what you need to hear, not what you want to hear. I'd run elsewhere fast if I heard this advice above.

    So use moderate light then given your goal, more light is not "BETTER". Lower light and cooler temps= easier CO2 management.

    I do not think you understand the issue there, KH, the alkalinity, is the factor in this and if you do much water changes(what % and frequency do you do?), I have near glacier melt water here, the KH is 1 degree, about 20 ppm. And the % water changes also play a role. The pH is not affected much, if any, at this point on any of my tanks. Not that it matters much since it is relative anyway, but you can degas a tank easily and then measure a again and have another base line to measure the pH relative drop you need to hit a target CO2 ppm.

    6-7 degree's TH is not that soft really compared to my tap.

    Mine is about 2.

    TH is the same as dGH, or general hardness. It is NOT the KH or alkalinity, that buffers the pH. Sometimes there are other things other than bicarbonate that affects the alkalinity, but that's another conversation and one reason to use relative pH drop instead of absolute.

    Seachem Eq is a bit pricy.

    The hydroponic place sells gypsum.

    They also sell Epsom salt, MgSO4.

    They also sell K2SO4, potash of sulfur.

    Buy three 25KG bags of each, mix in equal parts, now you have spent maybe 75$, but have 75kg supply and likely a lifetime's worth of GH booster.

    CMS+B, the only thing you might add to that is DTPA 330 sequestrene(Ebay etc), maybe 1 part that to 3 parts CMS+B. 2-5 kg bag will also last a lifetime.

    Now the chemicals are nearly free over time.

    Use a decent pH meter to measure and monitor pH, use say a Lamotte alkalinity test kit for KH.

    For GH addition, you might add 1 table spoon per 60 Gallons of aquarium once a week, post water change.

    Should cover everything you need.
  2. wolfewill

    wolfewill New Member

    Dec 5, 2010
    Likes Received:
    Local Time:
    8:08 AM
    Are you suggesting to buffer to a specific TH, or, is that issue moot due to the other additives? When I first started using Africana, The ADA advise was to add baking soda daily to keep the TH at above a minimum of 2 degrees (ref.: Frank Wazeter at that time, and the ADA dealers in Toronto and Trois Rivieres, circa 2012). The advise from the people in the EU (the UKAPS forum) was that TH is irrelevant if the proper nutrients were available, and their arguments were compelling. The ADA advise changed during the course of these discussions: It was deemed a waste of time and had no impact on plant or fish health. So I stopped with no apparent issues. Comments?

    I use the PPS dosing strategy and to water changes when required, usually from 2 to 8 weeks in a mature tank.
    #22 wolfewill, Feb 18, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 18, 2015

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice