Re: Turning off CO2 at night with SMS122...
Ways to turn the CO2 off at night when using pH controller (Redundant Information Alert!!!)
1. If you have your lights on a timer, just plug the SMS controller into an available socket controlled by that timer. The CO2 will go off and on with the lights, since the controller will kill the power to the solenoid when it loses power.
Advantages- costs nothing extra, unless you don’t have a socket available under the timer’s control. In that case you have to get a power strip or extension cord.
Disadvantages- takes a while for the CO2 to ramp up after lights on
2. Remove the SMS and it’s control socket, and plug the solenoid directly into the power socket controlling the lights.
Advantages- same as #1, plus don’t care what your KH is any more
Disadvantages- same as #1, plus more difficult to maintain CO2 levels during the late part of the photoperiod and lose protection from CO2 overdose via tank dump or misadjusted bubble rate
3. Purchase an additional timer set for the time you want the CO2 off, and plug either the SMS or its control outlet into this timer.
Advantages- don’t lose any of the benefits of a pH-controlled system, can rig the CO2 to come on before the lights, adds some life to the SMS if this is what is turned off
Disadvantages- have to buy another timer/strip, adds more wires and a little more complexity to the spaghetti under the tank
There is a 4th option, which is to do #2 with its own timer as in #3, but I’m over it already.
I’m considering option #3 myself since I would like to stagger my lights anyway, which will require another timer/strip. If I keep one bank on the entire photoperiod, I can plug the controller into this circuit. The other circuit will just be on in the middle of the period. I think my bait will like this better as well. They give a pretty good jerk when those AHS 96W monsters go on in the morning.
Also, I have a power strip setup (like Jonathan does) which has my filters and heaters plugged into it so that I can turn only those things off for maintenance. Mounting the strips on the cabinet and zip ties or Velcro straps on the wire and things are tidy.
BTW, Laith, if 1 bps is fully dissolving in your tank and giving you, say, 30 ppm, it shouldn’t matter what the KH reading is. If the KH shifts, then the pH will shift, but not the CO2 concentration. That’s the beauty of setting up your CO2 by your bubble rate, but I don’t see much said about it.