The noob guide to building your own regulator: part numbers, sources, and other tips!

Flyinghellfish

Prolific Poster
Dec 26, 2011
69
0
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Naw, that alright, it was ages ago and I end up using another chrome CGA 320 nut. I really like their chrome nipple, do they add the filter to it or does it come like that? I'm thinking of getting a filter for the SS Parker nipples.
 

bcarl_26gal

Junior Poster
Nov 11, 2014
64
0
6
Has anyone made a good quality DIY regulator for paintball tanks? or would following these designs and using an adaptor work best?
 

Matt F.

Lifetime Charter Member
Lifetime Member
May 30, 2009
2,319
4
38
California
bcarl_26gal said:
Has anyone made a good quality DIY regulator for paintball tanks? or would following these designs and using an adaptor work best?

Anything is possible. You just don't want to skimp on quality. Standard industrial regulators offer solid reliability over the years. Paintball set-ups traditionally have been cheaply made since they are a direct result of the aquatic plant hobby. Hobby grade regulators have caused all kinds of headaches, especially when they fail. There are exceptions to this, of course. That said, there has got to be a way to make paintball set-ups more dependable.


Best advice I got when I first started out is to buy the largest gas tank I could fit in my house. I have a few 20# CO2 tanks now. Was thinking about upgrading to a couple 50# tanks, but the 20#ers last a long time. I have a 20 gallon planted tank, so I only inject 2 bps (approx.). I've been running the same CO2 tank since December 1, 2013. LOL
 

tke0398

Junior Poster
Jun 26, 2015
2
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1



Just purchased this and plan on building myself. Below are what I believe the parts I need to do this.


Would like to build it like the one MattF has in the original post. His picture and some of his parts listing are below. What if anything am I missing and how many. Total noob at this so any help is much appreciated. I did sub in a Swagelok metering valve if that makes a difference.





SS-4-HLN-2.00


SS-4-RSE-2


Burkert 00463939 2/2 Miniature Solenoid Valve Stainless Steel Body


Burkert 008403 Plug Connection With LED No Varistor


SS-2-ME


SS-SS2-A-VH (SS Low-Flow Angle-Pattern Metering Valve, 1/8 in. Swagelok Tube Fitting, Vernier Handle)


SS-2c2-1/3 (male threaded check valve)


SS-6MO-7-2 (swagelok tube adapter replaces JBJ bubble counter)


SS-6M5-4M (tube insert) Smith Stainless Steel Nipple, E99-320C43


Smith Stainless Steel Nut, E99-320C44


Teflon tape





View attachment 9285

View attachment 9286

aga.JPG


conversion011.jpg
 

oldpunk

Guru Class Expert
Dec 1, 2009
427
4
18
Do you already have the SS-SS2-A?


If so, you'll need to change everything after the solenoid.


This is probably the cleanest way to use a ss-ss2-a


 
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tke0398

Junior Poster
Jun 26, 2015
2
0
1
No. All I have is the regulator at this point . Just making a shopping list. :) So should I just go with the Ideal V 54-4-11 or V 52-4-11?
 

oldpunk

Guru Class Expert
Dec 1, 2009
427
4
18
I'd copy Matt's build and go for the Idea V54-1-12.


It will save you a lot of headaches if this is your first time. You don't want to be in a boat where you're trying to figure out what adapters you'll need and what works with what. Matt's design is solid.
 

GeorgeG

New Member
Dec 1, 2017
6
4
3
50
Los Angeles
Another noob question...

When reading about solenoids, I see that they prefer to have the actuator in vertical orientation, although they will (obviously) work when sideways too.

Taking that into consideration, my question is this:

In many builds that I see, there is a 90 degree elbow that comes out of the regulator, leading to the solenoid which is now placed sideways... what is the practical reason for this? Is it for saving space? Minimize chances of breaking fittings?

I like to know the logic behind such things :)