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SW Tank to FW Tank

Discussion in 'General Plant Topics' started by jonathan11, May 31, 2007.

  1. jonathan11

    jonathan11 Lifetime Charter Member
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    Just purchased my dream tank! 180 gallon, glass , dual overflows. I hope to eventually use this tank as a planted, discus setup. The tank was purchased used, with what I believe are 2 1/4" or 2 3/8" diameter overflow holes in the rear corners, with a wye (?) at each corner. This plastic cover is called a wye, is it not? I have a 55 gallon tank that I want to use as a sump, that I would locate either below the 180 in the cabinet, or on the other side of the wall where I'll be placing the 180. I'm not familiar with this sort of filtration system, and was hoping someone could help me with the plumbing installation for said tank, and a recommendation for a pump that would be adequate for this setup, as well as the best places to get the pieces. As well, I'm thinking of removing the covers, which are siliconed in, and replacing them with new ones due to the SW residue on the inside of this baffle. Would removing them, and replacing them be done without causing any leaks? Good place to get new ones?
    Thx in advance.
    Walter
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    I'd remove one of them, and keep the other.
    You'll use bulk heads to plumb things from the holes in the bottle to the canisters or sump or a mix of both filter methods(best IMO).

    One set of holes will pipe water from back to the top and the other will get the lower(to and from).

    Overflow will be be for a sump, the bottom set will be for a closed loop cainster(say an Ehiem 2260 etc). Add a filter screen like a lifeguard type and a return with lok line.

    Take a look on line for various sump diagrams.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  3. jonathan11

    jonathan11 Lifetime Charter Member
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    SW to FW Tank

    I have 3 250 watt metal halide bulbs, 10000k, i believe, that came with the 180 tank. Wondering if these will be usuable for a fw tank setup? Seems to be a problem with heat in the canopy- charring of the wood above the bulbs. Wondering about adding a reflector for these bulbs, what length would be adequate, manufacturer? Also, 4 holes, 4 1/8" in diameter, have been cut in the canopy, 2 holes of which have the screw hole remains of a fan mounting. Any suggestions on a quiet fan in this diameter, and would 4 fans be a better choice, with 2 blowing out, 2 pulling in- if they make such an animal? Thx in advance.

    Walter
     
  4. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    I'd just use three fans and one vent, depends on how tight a fit the hood is.

    You can use all four for fans if the hood is loose.
    Otherwise the 2 at either end as vents and two fans in the middle will work.

    You can buy reflector material for retrofit MH's for a dIY project. Just curve and screw it in how you light.

    250w is a lot of light, see if you can sell off this and use 150-175 w instead and maybe add a pair of 2x 96W PC from A&H.

    Run the PC for 10 hours, the 250's for 4 midday.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  5. jonathan11

    jonathan11 Lifetime Charter Member
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    Lighting

    Tom, a bit confused - how many of the 150/175 watt mhs would you recommend I use?and for appearance sake, would there be a preferable positioning of the lights for viewing, say halides in the middle, front, back, with the 2 96 watt pc?thx again,

    Walter
     
  6. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    One at least every 2ft of tank.

    I like the AM sexy light that has 3x 150 W and 2x 70 w in the middle.

    This gives awesome coverage, but it has less light than say 2-3x 250W.

    We do not need more watts, we need more coverage from more smaller wattage points.

    The PC's will help in this regard, but you will see that 250's are not going to give the most even coverage. Just two hot spots.

    This is the trade off.


    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  7. jonathan11

    jonathan11 Lifetime Charter Member
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    Sump Pump

    Not trying to be a pita, but sometimes it seems that way. Another question about the sump- for a pump, with standard all glass plumbing, one corner plumbing is rated at being able to handle 600gph. I will use the Eheim 2260 (rated @ 500gph) in this 180 as well, but is a pump of 600gph adequate for the sump, or should i increase the pipe diameter and use a pump of greater capacity? And if so, what output should this pump have? Thx in advance.

    Walter:D
     
  8. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    You might add some wave like powerheads in the main tank and use this pump.
    That will give you the needed flow, but not require a larger sump pump.

    I'd do this personally:
    If you can drill into the bottom of the tank, adding a pair of 3/4" bulkheads and hooking a large canister or an Ocean clear + foam core ought to help a lot and reduce noise/overflow issues etc.

    So you have a sump/overflow + a canister on different loops.
    Get the best of both.
    Remember detritus is going to be pulled in the lower parts, and the finer junk up into the overflow. The drain side on the bulk head to the canister may also be used for water change drains by adding a Tee.
    Simply add a soft hose to the drain, etc, where ever you want it to go, and turn it on. If you can leave the drain hose on, or hide it etc so it's not obvious, then it'll make water changes easier.

    You can do the same for the fill on the canister return to fill the tank if you wish, no splash, it's at the bottom etc.
    Add a Tee to that also and do the same thing, turn a pair of tees to drain and fill and turn the water main on for the fill(do not leave that on all the time etc, just when you want to refill the tank, then open the Tee to fill, when you have enough, close the Tee and the ball valve, then go turn off the water at the main shut off).

    Hard to explain but very easy to do.



    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
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