Suggestions on my new scape 100g rimless

[dannsafly]

Hello.

Any suggestions regarding my scape? I'm open to suggestions. Fell free to voice your opinion I plan to use HC, NLJF, moss, staruogyne repens, fissidens and a couple downoi.


Pics:
View attachment 3202

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View attachment 3199

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View attachment 3201

It is my first real scape.

Thanks,
Marek

 

[dutchy]

Not bad at all Show us a pic when planted.

 

[dannsafly]

Will have 70+ square feet of HC this friday. I changed hardscape a little, see pic I have a major problem with wood, every time i try to put it in, it always looks out of place Any advise?


[attachment=1116:name]

Thanks

 

[dutchy]

This setup is more iwagumi. The problem is that you want both the stones and the wood to be the main focus, which won't work. In the previous scape, the wood was the main focus. In this case the stones are the main focus but a single piece of wood will always be out of balance.

 

[Gerryd]

Hi,

I am no scaper, but I liked the first setup much better and was surprised by the big change to the current scape... I agree with Dutchy though (a safe bet) that the wood now seems a bit out of place...

Just my 2 cents.

 

[dannsafly]

So how or where can i put wood in there to not be a focal point/main focus? It seams that with this stone layout it simply can't be done. I will attach fissidens to that large stone in center.

Yesterday I changed a couple things and today after few hours i give up and removed wood. Also managed to plant 70+ sq inches of HC Im doing DSM and already have questions.
What is ideal humidity? My findings points toward 86%-99%. If so then I have a problem because my hygrometer showing 80%. Is there an easy way to bump humidity to say 90% ?


Pics:

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Pic of wood:
[attachment=1120:name]


Thanks guys

 

[ShadowMac]

I really liked the first hardscape, but the final one you chose is good. IME, as long as you have moisture on the glass you are fine during your DSM. Humidity is the key so it is good you know that...many think its having the plants sit in water which is a bad idea and a mistake I made the first time I did a DSM.

 

[Tom Barr]

1st hardscape was better.

The wood could be trimmed in length to shorten the pieces to open up the space in the middle.
Also, some more rock, smaller stones to keep that slope maintained would be of use.

The latter hardscape is okay for an open iwagumi thing.
You can redo and change things after a year also.

 

[Aquadream]

I would drop the aquascaping dogma straigh away. The wood was actually damn good as you did it on picture 024a. Focal point elements does not have to be of the same material. Besides in nature there are so man woods sticking out of rocks and clifs.

 

[ShadowMac]

I would drop the aquascaping dogma straigh away. The wood was actually damn good as you did it on picture 024a. Focal point elements does not have to be of the same material. Besides in nature there are so man woods sticking out of rocks and clifs.

I thought the branch was cool in that pic too, but also thought it could use more wood pieces on the left side if wood was to be used

 

[dannsafly]

Well, it's been two weeks since I start DSM and things already going downhill Hc turning yellow and my staruogyne repens drying so fast that when i came from work it's almost completely dry. What am i doing wrong? Any advise?
My humidifier turning on every two hours for 30 minutes. Hygrometer showing 80% - 84%, temperature 80F. I spray manually before and after work (tap water with Prime)
Top is sealed with tape, two 2" holes for fresh air. I had to remove almost 4 gallons of water just to keep water 1" under substrate. It's like water from my misting device going straight under AS

Only positive is that i see tiny HC roots going deep into AS

Pics:

[attachment=1135:name]

[attachment=1136:name]

 

[Htomassini]

Sounds to me like I would eliminate the holes. In the morning grab a spray bottle and mist everything and seal the tank. Let the heat of the lights evaporate some of the water and keep it moist. Every 2 days or so open it up to spray and to air it out.

I did that with a tank and grew the glosso just fine.



Henry tomassini
www.theplantedaquariumstore.com
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[dannsafly]

After another week yellowing pretty much stops but something starts to grow on substrate (see pic) I thing it's some kind of fungus. How to stop it/remove it? Anyway grow is decent where there is no or little "fungus".
I removed my cheap humidifier and sealed the top completely. I mist manually before and after work (water mixed with prime/CSM+B and excess water from aquasoil)
I have to note that a week ago there were no "fungus" whatsoever, it grows faster then my HC Any help is greatly appreciated!

Now:

Then:

Thanks


edit: Any help guys? HC in the middle is completely covered with this mold/fungus. Will H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) kill this mold?

 

[globali]

The very first layouts were grate.

 

[Biollante]

I Hope This Helps...

Hi,

I feel bad that I didn’t see this or what passes for my brain didn’t latch onto it.

As with many plants the apparent slow start were the plants spending their energy on putting down roots, Hemianthus Callitrichoides likes enriched substrates, root tabs, Osmocote Plus something of that sort.

First, it looks too wet, remove some of the water, then somewhere between what you were doing and Henry’s “seal it up,” this stuff is trial and error, local conditions can vary a great deal.

Second, I would not mist with CSM+B solution or any highly chelated mixture; it is rather like misting sugar water, you might as well put out a welcome mat and neon lighting inviting fungus and bacteria to the party.:eek-new:

Third if you have any Monopotassium phosphate, KH[SUB]2[/SUB]PO[SUB]4[/SUB], dust the substrate, spend a little time getting some directly on the fungus between the plants.

With or without Monopotassium phosphate, mist with a solution of 4-parts distilled water and 1-part 3% Hydrogen peroxide. This is a strong solution (6-ppt H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB]) so do not overdo it.

Biollante

 

[dannsafly]

Hi,

Third if you have any Monopotassium phosphate, KH[SUB]2[/SUB]PO[SUB]4[/SUB], dust the substrate, spend a little time getting some directly on the fungus between the plants.

With or without Monopotassium phosphate, mist with a solution of 4-parts distilled water and 1-part 3% Hydrogen peroxide. This is a strong solution (6-ppt H[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]2[/SUB]) so do not overdo it.

Biollante

This seams to work great I can see some sort of chemical reaction (lots of bubbles) few minutes after misting and after day or two fungus turning white/black.
HC roots are 1+ inch long, at least those that are close to the edges. I unscrew one bulkhead and removed most of the water in a couple minutes. Fast and easy

Pics will be posted tomorrow.

Thanks,
Marek

 

[Biollante]

Kind of Like Riding a Bicycle

Hi Marek,

Good, but do not go too far the other way, DSM requires a certain feel, once you get it, it all seems ridiculously easy.

Biollante

 

[dannsafly]

Flooded my tank two weeks ago. I was happy for one week Everything seems to grow excellent, lots of pearling. Until I come home from work this past Monday.
Water on the floor because CPR overflow clogged. Staruogyne melted away and fungus covered most of my HC carpet. I decided to rip of fungus along with Hc
I though that this fungus will die under water...

Pretty much lost all my plants

Tiny creatures fighting for survival during flood:

One week in:

Now:

I will try to order more plants in a week and try again. No DSM for me this time Anyone knows where I can order 70+ square inches of HC for cheap? Will my Staruogyne completely die? Do I need to order another batch from Tom

Thanks!

 

[ShadowMac]

The plants should have undergone an adjustment period after the flood, transitioning to submerged growth. If the S. repens is melting it is most likely a CO2 issue. My experience has been it can grow under little light, but with poor CO2 it gets what look like burn marks and the leaves melt away. The fungus does eventually go away, but won't do so quickly, might take a couple weeks.

 

[Tom Barr]

Did you do multiple water changes the first 1-2 weeks?
I typically do 3x a week for the first 2 weeks, then maybe 2x a week thereafter, 60-80% or more.

Too much humidity led to the HC fungus.

Not enough care after you set the tank up with water led to the other issues.
The Starougyne should recover.

I grow HC outside on my bonsai.
Gloss also.

The humidity here drops to 15-20% during the day.
Bone dry, but I water the trees daily well.

Point is, you do not need such high humidity for DSM.
Same for Crypts and many other aquatic plants.