Starting a New 75P Need some help

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Lost Csr

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I'm currently in the process of making a Low light CO2 plant tank.
(Having a 2 year old is kinda hard to work around with a tank)
I've read up on your (Tom's) DSM. I'm really interested in trying this out.
I am a beginner.
Just for info here's the equipment that I have so far.
JBL u402 CO2 setup, lily pipes and ada glassware for CO2.
Eheim Pro 1 2224. Hydor ETH 200W in-line heater
As far as lighting. Would a Hagen GLO T5 HO 2x24 work fine?

Substrate and Liquid fertilizer.
ADA AS Amazonia 9l and Africana PT 3l
Green Brighty STEP 1, Brighty K, Green Bacter, and Bacter 100

Just a few questions.
Would it be ok to use ADA PS? I think I read you say that you don't use it.
What about the Bacter 100 and Clear super? Basically all that Penac stuff.
For the foreground I would like to use glossostigma elatinoides.
Would this be a good foreground plant to use with the DSM?
I would also like to use Anabius nana's (actually 2 on each side) and some around the rocks and/or driftwood. Which I don't know if I should put those in after the water set up.

Thanks in advance for any help. Really appreciate it.
Great website
-Cesar
 
G

GillesF

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Nov 1, 2010
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Hi Cesar

I'm no expert but maybe this will help:

1) What are the dimensions of your tank and will the lighting be directly above the water?
2) Don't use ADA fertilizers. There's nothing wrong with them but they are way too expensive. You'd better buy some dry fertilizer, it will save you a lot of money
3) If you're going to use the EI and CO2, keep an eye out for the "end of tank dump" that might kill your fish (if you're using a single stage reg)
4) You can add fertilizers to the soil but it is not necessary. Maybe someone else can give some advice on that one?

As regards the lay-out: I'd check out some lay-outs on the Internet and use them as templates and then add your own touch to them. That's how I did mine :)

Good luck!
 
L

Lost Csr

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1) Tank dimensions are 75 x 45 x 45cm. So, that's something like 29.5 x 17.7 x17.7 inches, 126liters.
Lighting will be suspended above the tank. I don't mind using something that goes a little above the tank.
Some that I had in mind are Solar I which is the 150W halide light, or the Solar II which has 2x36w bulbs.

2) After I use up the ADA fertilizers I will go ahead and get the dry fertilizer. Would any flower shop or plant store fertilizer work just fine?

3) Right now I have a single stage regulator. I have talked to Matt and Left C about dual stage. They've been really helpful. Looking to get one in the coming month.
Not to sure about the EI, still reading up on it. Will have to see where I can buy the chemicals for the process.
EOTD: I'm well aware about it. Can't have my fish dying. At the lfs I actually seen it happen and surprisingly nothing happened to any of the fish.
I told the guy about it and he didn't even notice that the tank was empty.

Lay-out: I have looked around and I've seen a lot that I like. I have a good idea of what I would like to do.

About the DSM, Is it alright to just put in the rocks and the anabius in the beginning or wait till after its filled?

Thanks Gilles
 
G

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
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Hi,

If you really want a low light tank, I would not go with MH fixtures...T8, T12, or compact flourescent are all good choices IMO.

If using MH or T5 they may need to be pretty high. 40 gals of water is not that much light and the tank is not that large. So should be fairly easy to light it.

You may have to experiment and see unless you have a PAR meter...

Anubias can certainly be grown emersed and is it's natural state...

EI is simply much less expensive than ADA or seachem ferts. It is also easier to control what you dose as well.

I know there are many European members here that dose EI.....

Hope this helps...
 
G

Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
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Hi,

The Solar II is a power compact correct?

I think this would be fine for your stated goals.

The T5 allows for future flexibility should you want more light.

As an example, I have been using T8, but had the reached the max with these fixtures.

So am replacing with T5HO but will be mounted much higher to compensate...

So, if you want to go higher/lower light, just adjust the fixture..

That is a pretty fixture but expensive. Can you find a retailer in the states that will ship to you?
 
L

Lost Csr

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I'm not sure if its power compact?

I've asked both US distributors and they don't ship outside the US. I would have to go through any of the Europe distributors.

I've seen other light fixture that are less expensive. But most are 4x24w and just plain ugly.
Brands like Lumina and Arcadia.
This was the hagen
http://www.aquaticlifeaquariums.com.au/contents/en-uk/p2861.html

I know guy at the distributor place, he said he would lower the price for the Solar II.
 
G

GillesF

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The Solars are very pretty but, according to tests on this forum, the reflectors are really bad resulting in a relatively low PAR compared to the wattage. Personally, I think they are too expensive but that's my opinion about all ADA products :D

I've been using EI for half a year or more and I simply love it. MUCH better results and NO algae! :)
 
Tom Barr

Tom Barr

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I was in Portugal a couple, of years ago and we saw some nice T5 hoods, that individual switches for each light bulb.
I see no reason that these same type of light fixtures would not also be available in Spain.

This would give you plenty of flexibility with light intensity.

KNO3, KH2PO4, Gh booster(you may not need this depending on the tap water) and some CMS+B or similar dry trace element mix.
If there is ample GH and it is mostly Calcium in the tap water, then MgSO4 (Epsom salt), may be used in place of GH booster.

ADA is fairly $$$$, but things like the fixtures, filters etc, may or may not appeal, they are nice, but cost 3-5x more than a good grade from another brand cost. The rimless tanks are nice and ADa aqua soil is also a relatively good deal. I use their smaller tanks and the Aqua soil for my own tanks, but little else.

This is more up to you, for the ferts, it is far easier in terms of comparison to use the raw dry fertilizers and 10000X more cost effective.
It would be like buying CO2 gas from Japan.
 
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GillesF

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Lost Csr;63732 said:
Would you (GillesF) be able to send me links to some sites that have some light fixtures that would be good for my setup. That ship to Spain btw

These are some that the LFS sells
Lumina 424
http://www.aquariavirtual.com/index...tegory_id=198&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=33



Aqua medic
http://www.acuarioaberiak.com/verproducto.asp?id=1388

I'm strongly considering using EI. I'll have to do some research on it for proper doses.
Click to expand...

I looked for the thread but was unable to find it, maybe Tom remembers it?

As regards lighting: this is the one I got for my 60cm tank

http://farm01.afterbuy.de/afterbuy/shop/storefront/start.aspx?shopid=58879 (German shop)

I drilled a hole and added an extra power cable so now I can switch between 1, 2 or 3 lamps (only use 1 atm)

*edit* Direct linking doesn't seem to work. Click on "T5 lampe" on the left and then item "T5 Hänge o. Ständer Lampe 3x24W statt HQI 60cm Tropicl.", about 100€
 
L

Lost Csr

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Seems like a good light. If your only using 1 light shouldn't I just go with the 2x24?

Some more questions, Sorry guys.

Anyone's thoughts on the Blau Lumina 4x24 and the ATI Sunpower 4x24?
 
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G

GillesF

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I bought my lighting when I was still using my old dosing method (not enough fertilizers, too much light, ...). 2x24w seems more than enough for your tank.

The lighting you suggested looks really nice and well finished but quite expensive, expecially the SunPower. I don't know why they say the SunPower would "produce 50% more light" and why you would need coolers (unless it is often very hot where you live ...) since you'll be using the same lighting as everyone else (T5).

I would save myself some money, buy the cheaper version and invest in better CO2 equipment :)
 
L

Lost Csr

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Can I use any light bulbs for that fixture you recommended?

And how do I go about ordering? Most of the site is in German.
 
G

GillesF

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Yes, you can use any T5HO you like. The fixture comes with chinese light bulbs (never used them, too white).

He should have an Ebay shop somewhere, that's how I ordered mine :)
 
L

Lost Csr

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Tom Barr;63734 said:
KNO3, KH2PO4, Gh booster(you may not need this depending on the tap water) and some CMS+B or similar dry trace element mix.
If there is ample GH and it is mostly Calcium in the tap water, then MgSO4 (Epsom salt), may be used in place of GH booster.
Click to expand...

Going to go out and get a test to se if I have sufficient GH.
I found a website that I can get the ferts from.

Quick questions the trace mix, Should I get that regardless of ample GH or not?

BTW when you say Epsom salt, You mean MgSO4+7H2O right?

Thanks
 
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