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Soon putting CRS SSS in the 120 any tips for succses?

Discussion in 'Inverts' started by SwampGremlin, Jan 23, 2016.

  1. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    I Recently purchased 20 Crystal Red SSS shrimp for my 120 gallon my ph swings 1 thoughout the day. Gh5 KH 2 Temp 78 ish. 80ro/20tap water changes.


    Anyone have experience with these shrimp that could help me make the transition go as smooth as possible for these little guys?


    Its a heavy planted tank with pressurised co2 lots of it, and ada aquasoil. The tank is well established.


    I was thinking about getting a chiller to keep my water on the lower end seeing that i live in south florida and indont really mind keeping my house at 80,but not really sure if i need one. I also thought about running 4 of my 8 T5's for awhile when they first get introduced to the tank and cuting the co2 down 25% jand working it back to where it was gradually. Not sure if this is needed or wise.


    Any thoughts?


    Oh I do use csm+b is this a no no?


    Thanks,


    Mike D
     
    #1 SwampGremlin, Jan 23, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2016
  2. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    A few things i will be doing is getting the SAE out of there im still up in the air about the H Rasbora they dont mess with my RCS at all, I think the rummy nose are coming out aswell
     
  3. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    Good luck catching that SAE. With my netting skills i can easily catch a sae in my planted tank. Iono about yourself hehe.
     
  4. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    Cherries, as long as your water is hard enough, say tds 200 and they'll be fine. Only thing to worry about is gassing them. Molting and breeding should be good at that levels.
     
  5. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    sorry misread OP. SSS grade crystals, do not know.
     
  6. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Lol yeah they like to hide and my tank is dense right now.
     
  7. Pikez

    Pikez Rotala Killer!
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    SAE are pests. I introduced two into my 180, something I regret. Managed to nab one at night. The other eludes me. I've thought about jacking up CO2 to get everyone to the surface to aid in capture. But that's cruel and possibly fatal to all other residents. Shrimp should do OK. They'll act funny if your CO2 is too high. They'll also hide if traces are too high.


    Neither high CO2 nor high traces kept my cherries (not sure about yours) from breeding like crazy under a Staurogyne bush. I yanked the bush to trim and top and found a zillion littles ones in there. Unfortunately, once the protection of the bush was gone, my Sabwa resplendens (Asian rummy) picked off one at a time. So my advice is to watch CO2, traces, and micro-predators.
     
  8. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Im adding crystal reds sss grade i already have aprox 200 cherries in there and they are thriving well i put 2 carbon black rillis in there but i can never find them =)


    But the sae are coming out for sure.
     
  9. nicpapa

    nicpapa Guru Class Expert

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    rcs and carbon can mix together... and then you have an ugly shrimp.


    Crs is sensitive ,more the babies.


    They prefer stable parameters, ph 6.2-6.8 gh 5-6 ,kh 0-1 low nitrates and ferts and low temp.


    I saw rummys to put in the mouth an adult rcs shrimp. :)


    Its beter to keep shrimp alone, withou fish.
     
  10. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Thank very much for your response. This is more very helpful info
     
  11. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Stable TDS will help, so large changes in nutrient salts, not good, large changes in the water TDS etc...........and they do not like CO2 enrichment.


    So non CO2 methods are best overall for shrimp tanks.
     
  12. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Ok thanks Tom, Do you think if i used half the light on the 120 with all the plants i have in there they would stay alive(the plants) with no Co2 ? or can i slowly start introduce co2 back into the system eventually. Or is the 120 gal just a complete mismatch for CRS with the plants that i have chosen to keep.


    I do not care about breeding rate as i have not purchased these to Duplicate as much as i would just like to enjoy looking at them in my tank, adding color to my scape ect.(The shrimp)


    Is there a way to actualy keep CRS and the plants happy at the same time with pantanal, tonia, erios ect or is this an impossibility.One or the other will die eventually no happy medium ground?


    I would not mind just slower growth but still alive plants and happy shrimp but if i know me i will pick my plants over the shrimp any day of the week.


    Basicly want the shrimp to stay alive but i care way more about my plants than shrimp reproduction i just do not want to kill the little buggers.


    The Tank they are going in. Removing all fish except Neons and Threadfin rainbows and otocats.shrimp will be here Tomorrow.


    [​IMG]
     
    #12 SwampGremlin, Jan 26, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2016
  13. kilauea91

    kilauea91 Lifetime Members
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    I agree with Tom from my experience. A dedicated shrimp only tank seems to be the best for long term success, especially for those delicate high grade CRS. Honestly, there isn't much more effort needed to maintain a shrimp tank. a decent sized tank(10G or more), over filtration with good aeration, high CEC/KH buffering substrate, low KH water, easy plants, no fert dosing, no co2, low light to slow down the plant growth so less trimming required. It does not even need frequent water changes, for me it's 40-50% like every 3 months and just top off with RODI in between. I just monitor the TDS, do water change and clean the filter when it rise to certain level(e.g. > 250ppm). For a shrimp tank, stability is the key - less changes made to a shrimp tank the better.


    Unlike my high tech 120P, where I constantly make adjustments and conduct experiments mainly focusing on plant growth. I spend most of the time enjoying watching and feeding my CRS(mostly mosura/flower head SSS).


    Once you are able to get them to breed, just move the culls into your big planted tank.It will be a challenge trying to hit 2 birds with 1 stone.
     
  14. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Thank for your feed back on this matter. After some of your feed back guys, I decided to throw the 40 breeder I had back together, took the sun sun 304 b I had on the 120 that's been in a few different tanks constantly for a year now without killing the beneficial bacteria in it and put it on the 40 breeder and filled the 40 breeder with the 120's tank water and figured this woul be an instant established tank. The only bad thing is the shrimp will be here on the 28th so it only gives it about 4o hours to build some type of bio film in the tank, also I can't get Ada or controsoil locally where I live so the only thing I had that would hold plants down is a bag of black diamond blasting sand I had in the garage. I rinsed it in a bucket for about an hour swishing it around at the bottom with the hose and constantly pouring out the top layer till it was crystal clear.


    Letting the tank run tonight then tomorrow I'll work on parameters.


    This sound better than acclimating them to a co2 environment or is this tank still going to cycle and kill all the shrimp?
     
    #14 SwampGremlin, Jan 26, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2016
  15. kilauea91

    kilauea91 Lifetime Members
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    If you have an established bio filter and old tank water will definitely help speed things up. However, I would still carefully monitor ammonia/nitrite in the 40B before putting them in. Also get yourself a cheap sponge filter, you will find it useful down the road. In case of any emergency, you have the option to run the sponge filter in a temporary./QT container as a backup. Good luck!
     
  16. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Those culls provide lots of fun with testing their limits. You can make a VERY nice non CO2 tank, here's just one approach:


    [​IMG]


    Those who seem to poo poo EI and claim that is all I suggest seem to never cite such tanks or images.


    But I do not see their shrimp either now do I?


    Another approach is the Anubias low light CO2 rich tank without water changes, just food and ADA AS sediment(after 3-4 months or so).


    Feeding is about all.


    Moss, they love moss.
     
    2 people like this.
  17. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Yeah thats a really cool tank. Might try something like this in the future.havent dabbled with any tank with this style as of yet so would be a whole nother bag of research... Thanks for sharing
     
  18. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    Lost 2 of the 25 shrimp within 2 days hoping the rest will survive.


    Ph 6.8


    GH 5 Barr Booster


    Kh 2


    0 nitrite


    0 nitrate


    0 ammonia


    water temp 74


    Black Diamond Blasting sand


    About 10 various plants


    Manzanita wood


    spider wood


    0 dosing just the GH booster
     
    #18 SwampGremlin, Jan 30, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 30, 2016
  19. kilauea91

    kilauea91 Lifetime Members
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    Your water parameter looks fine. Attrition is not uncommon for CRS adapting to new environment. It should be fine if they don't look stressed and remain active(swimming around, picking microbe on plants/wood or swarming to food thrown in). You may consider using supplements that help grow biofilm where new tank lacks. I use Mosura BioPlus with good results. There are other brands like Borneo Wild, Benbachi, GlasGarten, all of which are import stuff and quite expensive. Also make sure you don't overfeed. Food left in there for too long could deteriorate water quality quickly.
     
  20. SwampGremlin

    SwampGremlin Member

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    I purchased some [h=1]Repashy Shrimp Souffle[/h] It had good reviews hope they like it.
     
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