I run a 520 L tank following the non-CO2 method and apply EI procedures described in this forum. The method has been built up applying each of the components gradually and in the last month or so the full system is in operation plus the addition of extra MgSO4 and chelated iron. Full parameters are as follows:
2.5 watt/gal
pH=7.0
gH=3
kH=1-2
temp=23(c). I keep A. madagascariensis (doing well)
1/8 teaspoon (per 20 gal) KNO3 every 2 weeks
1/16 KH2PO4 (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
1/4 teaspoon MgSO4 (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
1/8 Teaspoon Equilibrium (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
Excel at recommended rates
Trace (Flourish) - 2 ml/20 gal weekly
Chelated iron (Yates Chelated Iron, 1 teaspoon per 250ml water) at 2ml/50 gal x2 weekly (Ambulia were showing signs of paling at shoot tips)
80% water change every 2 weeks
Filtration 1000L/hr
The problem relates to the build-up of particulate matter between the 2 weekly water changes. Each fortnight, an 80% water change is undertaken and the sand (coarse quartz) is siphoned to freshen it up. The tank is crispy clear for the next 3-4 days, but then gradually deteriorates with build up of fine particulate matter. This makes the water slightly cloudy, which is very distracting as we all aim to have crystal clear water in show tanks.
The filtration system in an Eheim external canister filled with small scoria pieces and topped with filter wool. This has worked well for years, but with the introduction of the water column fertilisation method, water cloudiness has become a bit of an issue. It seems to have coincided with the introduction of extra iron as chelated iron (Yates) made for terrestrial plants. But I'm loath to suggest there is a causative effect here and heed the Barrian words "correlation doesn't necessarily mean causation" :gw .
But I am wondering if it possible for some of the non-CO2 chemical additions to react adversely in some situations and cause a precipiatate in the water column?
The tank has been running for 3 years now and was initially set-up with a soil substrate, which is still present (but probably adding nothing to the system now). The plants look the best they have ever been, I just need to find a way of keeping that water column cleaner for longer after a water change.
Fish (very low load) are fed a minimum and its not over -feeding. Sand appears clean and filter is pumping well. Eheims never die.
Any suggestions, before I opt for the hard-work option and strip down the whole tank and set it up again?
Thanks
Robin
2.5 watt/gal
pH=7.0
gH=3
kH=1-2
temp=23(c). I keep A. madagascariensis (doing well)
1/8 teaspoon (per 20 gal) KNO3 every 2 weeks
1/16 KH2PO4 (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
1/4 teaspoon MgSO4 (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
1/8 Teaspoon Equilibrium (per 20 gal) every 2 weeks
Excel at recommended rates
Trace (Flourish) - 2 ml/20 gal weekly
Chelated iron (Yates Chelated Iron, 1 teaspoon per 250ml water) at 2ml/50 gal x2 weekly (Ambulia were showing signs of paling at shoot tips)
80% water change every 2 weeks
Filtration 1000L/hr
The problem relates to the build-up of particulate matter between the 2 weekly water changes. Each fortnight, an 80% water change is undertaken and the sand (coarse quartz) is siphoned to freshen it up. The tank is crispy clear for the next 3-4 days, but then gradually deteriorates with build up of fine particulate matter. This makes the water slightly cloudy, which is very distracting as we all aim to have crystal clear water in show tanks.
The filtration system in an Eheim external canister filled with small scoria pieces and topped with filter wool. This has worked well for years, but with the introduction of the water column fertilisation method, water cloudiness has become a bit of an issue. It seems to have coincided with the introduction of extra iron as chelated iron (Yates) made for terrestrial plants. But I'm loath to suggest there is a causative effect here and heed the Barrian words "correlation doesn't necessarily mean causation" :gw .
But I am wondering if it possible for some of the non-CO2 chemical additions to react adversely in some situations and cause a precipiatate in the water column?
The tank has been running for 3 years now and was initially set-up with a soil substrate, which is still present (but probably adding nothing to the system now). The plants look the best they have ever been, I just need to find a way of keeping that water column cleaner for longer after a water change.
Fish (very low load) are fed a minimum and its not over -feeding. Sand appears clean and filter is pumping well. Eheims never die.
Any suggestions, before I opt for the hard-work option and strip down the whole tank and set it up again?
Thanks
Robin