Sealed Sump Design Advice / Comments?

AaronT

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I've been learning a little sketchup and designing a new sump for my tank based on a standard 20 gallon high aquarium. The idea is to have a weather seal around the rim and hold downs to secure the lid on the seal. This should allow for a good seal without using duct tape each time.

I'm thinking I'll use aluminum for the holddowns as it's cheap and relatively easy to machine. Will aluminum epoxy to the plastic rim with JB Weld?a

I could also use nylon or acrylic.

The area on the far left is in case fish / shrimp get sucked up they have a place to live until I scoop them back out.

SealedSump.jpg

SealedSump1.jpg

SealedSump2.jpg
 
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rbarn

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makes sure you leave a gap at the top so the drip tray can overflow into the next chamber just in case the bio material under it were to ever clog. unlikely, but better safe than sorry.
 

AaronT

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rbarn;118950 said:
makes sure you leave a gap at the top so the drip tray can overflow into the next chamber just in case the bio material under it were to ever clog. unlikely, but better safe than sorry.

Yes, I plan to do this. That's one reason I really love using the Poret foam. I've yet to have this issue. When I was still using the floss in the drip tray I had to change it out every week or it would overflow like you said.
 

Tom Barr

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With the design you have, you can add a sock filter, say a 100 micron range, this will prevent the foam blocks from clogging. You might clean 1/2 of them every 3-6 months..
Sock filter will have about 2-4" head pressure before overflowing.

So consider the overflow section to be a little lower than you think.

This will provide less total volume in the sump, but more head pressure for filtering if you want that.
You could also place two or even 3 sock filters in there also.

So with a bean animal design; 2 for the overflows and then one with out a sock filter.
 

Tom Barr

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With the design you have, you can add a sock filter, say a 100 micron range, this will prevent the foam blocks from clogging. You might clean 1/2 of them every 3-6 months..
Sock filter will have about 2-4" head pressure before overflowing.

So consider the overflow section to be a little lower than you think.

This will provide less total volume in the sump, but more head pressure for filtering if you want that.
You could also place two or even 3 sock filters in there also.

So with a bean animal design; 2 for the overflows and then one with out a sock filter.
 

AaronT

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Don't those sock filters clog up in only a few days?

Right now I'm running a CPR overflow and am using 10 ppi poret sponge in the drain as a prefilter. Then in the trickle tower is one 20 ppi sponge and two 30 ppi sponge. I clean the pre filter sponge out when I do water changes every week or two and the ones in the filter get rinsed every 4-6 months. I'm in love with poret. It doesn't clog. :D
 

Tom Barr

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AaronT;118995 said:
Don't those sock filters clog up in only a few days?

Right now I'm running a CPR overflow and am using 10 ppi poret sponge in the drain as a prefilter. Then in the trickle tower is one 20 ppi sponge and two 30 ppi sponge. I clean the pre filter sponge out when I do water changes every week or two and the ones in the filter get rinsed every 4-6 months. I'm in love with poret. It doesn't clog. :D

Yes, but you replace them and rinse and bleach the used ones etc. In a well run tank, the pre filter gets 99% of the muck.
So they should not clog that much unless you redo the tank etc.

I have them on a reef, they run for weeks. Same for iawagumi and other lower energy styles of plant tanks, a dutch or lots of pruned stem plants, then perhaps.

20 ppi works well for the prefilter drains, I clean 1-2x a week along with the SS mesh teeth.
Then the rest does not need much work.

You can also rotate/adjust different micron sizes, from 800 to 300 to 100 to 50 to 20 to 10 to 5 to 1 micron etc to suit you mechanical loading particle size.
Say you are leaving for 2 weeks, well, 300-800 might be best.
Say you have an open house or a pic shoot: run the 5 microns for a few hours prior.
Routine stuff, maybe 100 etc.
 
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Tom Barr

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AaronT;118995 said:
Don't those sock filters clog up in only a few days?

Right now I'm running a CPR overflow and am using 10 ppi poret sponge in the drain as a prefilter. Then in the trickle tower is one 20 ppi sponge and two 30 ppi sponge. I clean the pre filter sponge out when I do water changes every week or two and the ones in the filter get rinsed every 4-6 months. I'm in love with poret. It doesn't clog. :D

Yes, but you replace them and rinse and bleach the used ones etc. In a well run tank, the pre filter gets 99% of the muck.
So they should not clog that much unless you redo the tank etc.

I have them on a reef, they run for weeks. Same for iawagumi and other lower energy styles of plant tanks, a dutch or lots of pruned stem plants, then perhaps.

20 ppi works well for the prefilter drains, I clean 1-2x a week along with the SS mesh teeth.
Then the rest does not need much work.

You can also rotate/adjust different micron sizes, from 800 to 300 to 100 to 50 to 20 to 10 to 5 to 1 micron etc to suit you mechanical loading particle size.
Say you are leaving for 2 weeks, well, 300-800 might be best.
Say you have an open house or a pic shoot: run the 5 microns for a few hours prior.
Routine stuff, maybe 100 etc.
 

tefsom85

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Aaron, did you do this build? I'm getting ready to start on a 40B sump and am curious what yours looks like
 

AaronT

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No not yet. I'm still working on the new stand for now. I've got 3 small kids so my projects take their sweet time getting done. :D
 

tefsom85

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How do you seal CO2/AC line pass throughs in lid?

So, I am working on something similar to this, 40 breeder sump with fully sealed top. One thing I am not sure is how to route the CO2 lines, pump and heater AC lines through the plexiglass lid while keeping it sealed. I am sure someone has already worked this out. Thoughts?
 

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AaronT;120327 said:
No not yet. I'm still working on the new stand for now. I've got 3 small kids so my projects take their sweet time getting done. :D

"Hold the nail steady there honey, Daddy is going to whack it real hard with the hammer."

What could go wrong/take so long?
 

Tom Barr

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AaronT;120327 said:
No not yet. I'm still working on the new stand for now. I've got 3 small kids so my projects take their sweet time getting done. :D

"Hold the nail steady there honey, Daddy is going to whack it real hard with the hammer."

What could go wrong/take so long?
 

rbarn

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Tom Barr;121716 said:
"Hold the nail steady there honey, Daddy is going to whack it real hard with the hammer."

What could go wrong/take so long?

I thought you were supposed to hold the nail while you gave them the hammer ?
 

AaronT

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tefsom85;121712 said:
So, I am working on something similar to this, 40 breeder sump with fully sealed top. One thing I am not sure is how to route the CO2 lines, pump and heater AC lines through the plexiglass lid while keeping it sealed. I am sure someone has already worked this out. Thoughts?

My design is only sealed on the trickle side. There's no need to seal the whole top. Do you have Google Sketchup? I can email you the file of my design so you can play around with it if you like.

rbarn;121722 said:
I thought you were supposed to hold the nail while you gave them the hammer ?

That's what my son would think too. I did let my him use the random orbital sander on the back of the stand. He was in seventh heaven and he did a nice job on it too. :D
 
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tefsom85

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AaronT;121738 said:
My design is only sealed on the trickle side.

Well, rev 1 of the sump will only have the trickle side sealed but in my current sump, the dividing wall between the trickle section and the pump section does not extend all the way to the top, so can't seal just that section. I had meant to have this divider extend to the top but in the heat of assembly, mixed with an hour of messy caulk and colorful language, I brain farted and did not extend the wall up. Next design, that will be a lesson I remember. :) I think for this one, where I have to seal the entire top, I may add another bulkhead with a pipe that extends below the water surface and run the cords through that. That should do the trick. Since the pipe is below the water surface there will be no way for the CO2 to directly outgas. Another option is to notch the plexi cover enough at the edge for the cords and use a combo of silicone and duct tape to seal it. Depends on my mood and laziness on the day I get around to doing it.
 

Tom Barr

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I'd just shoot that with 3-4 coats sanded in between of clear ploy urethane.