Seachem EQ

At water changes it is recommended to use EQ to replace mineral loss. How do I know if this is needed?
I have Flourish, Trace, and their Macro's. I am hoping to change to dry fert when Seachems runs out (because of cost factor ). I want to continue to do water changes at 50% once a week as I do now.
I just ordered a KH and GH kit just to see my standard tap water and compare it to the tanks levels. Have not done this in a long time. I once saw a formula to figure out the CO2 levels, I would do this calculation for fun.
If what I read in EI section I should increase my Excel by 2x. Is this right?
Doing things this way should give me time to learn to mix dry fert.
As soon as the new plants come out of the alum, I will put them into the tank. For a larger plant mass.
I have done extra water changes to remove the fast dissolved API root tabs. I think that is what caused my green water when they dissolved in less then 8hrs.
I won't try for style or balance yet. I will just put the plant were ever for now.
Does the above sound like a start plan? I don't want to kill any more plants! Do I have a little to much light for this approach? I run the lights for 10-12 hrs. They sit right on the glass cover. I know I put a lot in this post. Please correct me when I am wrong. Thanks for helping.
I put tank info in my Sig.

 

Thanks

I only placed the root tabs just below the surface not deep enough. I will leave those be for a while.

I have never used the macro Seachem so for now I will follow their instructions for dosing.

While I find dry macro's and learn to mix them.

An off the wall question: On Planted tank forum they talk about flow and the more I have the better. Some one suggested Koralia Nano Pump Powerhead 240g. I don't understand why a full tank width of bubbles blowing up towards the top and then having the Fluval outlet cross that path would not be enough flow?
Do the plants need more flow? I could invest in one.