Save Tonina Fluviatilis

[wjagw]

Hi Everyone

I am from Sydney and read lots of articles on this site. Thanks to Tom and everyone.

Back to topic I need help from you guys to grow Tonina Fluviatilis.
I got it 3 days ago and planted it in my ADA tank
Tank DATA

Amazonia Soil, Powersand, all powders.
EI method of fertilization for 2 ft tank
Pressurized CO2 2-3 Bubbles/sec
GH 3
KH 2

Problem is that some leaves are getting yellow on the edges but tip of plant still green. Growth is stunned, may be it needs to settle down before it shows some growth.

Just want to know is there anything else I have to take care.
Yellowing of the leaves is related to deficiency of potassium ? so can be that i should does extra potassium.

Any help will be appreciated

Thanks
Cheers

Jag

 

[Martin]

is it melting/rotting at the roots?

do you know your CO2 level? 15ppm? 30ppm?

 

[Tom Barr]

Good CO2 and light. Do not move it around much either.
ADA AS and ferts are fine.

So all that is left really are the lights and CO2.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[wjagw]

Martin, Tom

Thanks for the help.
Just took reading of my tank again:

GH 4
KH 2
PH 5.5

Using Chucks calculator CO2 seems to be too much.
Lighting is greater than 4 watt/gallon

Tonina doing fine but i think CO2 is high.
Bit of BBA also on anubis and P.Helferi. Otherwise all plants look healthy.

Any suggestions to reduce algae and should i reduce CO2.

Thanks

Cheers

 

[Martin]

sorry to ask details, but can you give me a read on your CO2 level.. have you tried using a permanent tester for CO2 levels?

ph 5.5 / kh2 on a CO2 chart is way off but the lower the kH the more fluctuating the pH/kH relationship will be.

Do you add any calcium, magnesium or similar to ensure that plants have enough available..

I assume you've consulted this:

Nutrient Deficiency in a Planted Tank

 

[wjagw]

Martin

I am not using permanent tester as don's have the reagent to add in the drop checker. When i looked at the reading and look the chart it is way off .... dont know the reason.

Micro nutrient mixture which i use for fertilization should be enough for calcium and magnesium..... i think so.

Will get the reagent for the permanent CO2 test and let you know the readings soon.

Thanks for helping.

Cheers
Jag

sorry to ask details, but can you give me a read on your CO2 level.. have you tried using a permanent tester for CO2 levels?

ph 5.5 / kh2 on a CO2 chart is way off but the lower the kH the more fluctuating the pH/kH relationship will be.

Do you add any calcium, magnesium or similar to ensure that plants have enough available..

I assume you've consulted this:

Nutrient Deficiency in a Planted Tank

 

[Tom Barr]

Jag, first off this is not an easy plant to grow for many. Perhaps one of the harder ones. Since you have BBA with the other plants, this is telling.............

Light is plenty.
Nutrients are fine.
KH is fine.
GH sounds fine(you might add 1/4 teaspoon of GH booster or 1/4 teaspoon of MgSO4, this will address the chance that the GH is mostly Ca and not Mg).

You cannot use the pH/KH chart for CO2 with ADA AS, it's loaded with peat etc.
So you have to rely more on the eyes.

BBA= not enough CO2. Plants not fully growing well etc, not enough CO2. If this is hard thing without gassing fish etc, try less light, raising the light etc, more current etc.

Here's a similar tank with similar light, similar dosing(both EI), similar sediment, similar plants(the same), similar water(KH/GH)

The only real difference might be the CO2.

Stay away from any deficiency tables or charts.
They are taken from agriculture and not aquatic plant controlled studies. Each species can and often does express very different traits.
I've found the tables and charts to send people on many wild speculatory goose chases and never fine the root cause. Particularly Ca, K+ deficencies etc and stunted tips.
They are way way off there.

But you have non limiting nutrients in both the sediment and water column, so that whole issue is ruled out (as long as you actually are doing that routine and have the ADA AS as well etc). All that's left is light, CO2 and tap water KH Gh etc.
Gh is easy to address and the KH is likely fine for any plant(see above example).

So CO2..........



Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[wjagw]

Tom Barr

Thanks mate for all the help.
Added 1/4 teaspoon GH booster Reduced to half lights for 4 hours out of total 8 hours, CO2 is 2-3 bubbles and flow of water is good so hopefully everything will be fine.
Tonina is showing growth in few stems, 3/4th of the shoot from tip is greener and only few leaves at the bottom are yellow and looks like bit burnt edges.
I think it will show more growth in next few days and settle down in the tank.

Thanks
Regards
Jag

Jag, first off this is not an easy plant to grow for many. Perhaps one of the harder ones. Since you have BBA with the other plants, this is telling.............

Light is plenty.
Nutrients are fine.
KH is fine.
GH sounds fine(you might add 1/4 teaspoon of GH booster or 1/4 teaspoon of MgSO4, this will address the chance that the GH is mostly Ca and not Mg).

You cannot use the pH/KH chart for CO2 with ADA AS, it's loaded with peat etc.
So you have to rely more on the eyes.

BBA= not enough CO2. Plants not fully growing well etc, not enough CO2. If this is hard thing without gassing fish etc, try less light, raising the light etc, more current etc.

Here's a similar tank with similar light, similar dosing(both EI), similar sediment, similar plants(the same), similar water(KH/GH)

The only real difference might be the CO2.

Stay away from any deficiency tables or charts.
They are taken from agriculture and not aquatic plant controlled studies. Each species can and often does express very different traits.
I've found the tables and charts to send people on many wild speculatory goose chases and never fine the root cause. Particularly Ca, K+ deficencies etc and stunted tips.
They are way way off there.

But you have non limiting nutrients in both the sediment and water column, so that whole issue is ruled out (as long as you actually are doing that routine and have the ADA AS as well etc). All that's left is light, CO2 and tap water KH Gh etc.
Gh is easy to address and the KH is likely fine for any plant(see above example).

So CO2..........



Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[Tom Barr]

Older tips of Tonia will be burnt or bleached if not happy.
The new tips will come in a different color from the center.

When I mentioned reducing the light, I mean reducing the intensity, not the time/duration. Sorry, that was not clear.

You still need to add a bit more CO2 likely.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[wjagw]

Tom

CO2 increased and I cant move the light distance that why i switch of two tubes out of the four for 4 hours, this will help i hope so to reduce the BBA.
Most of the tonina new growth is green and today they were bubbling also so I think its getting settled now.

thanks for the advice. Always Appreciated.

Cheers
Jag

Older tips of Tonia will be burnt or bleached if not happy.
The new tips will come in a different color from the center.

When I mentioned reducing the light, I mean reducing the intensity, not the time/duration. Sorry, that was not clear.

You still need to add a bit more CO2 likely.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[Tom Barr]

Well, from here, you might need to tweak things here and there and be patient.
If the plant does poorly later, you pretty much know what to do now.
It's pretty much the same thing

Folks overlook things and make the same mistake and then try to see if they can do something different to solve it. I do this every so often, but I know better if I want to really solve the growth issue(like most folks).

Regards,
Tom Barr