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Rescaping the Previous One

Discussion in 'Are you new to aquatic plants? Start here' started by Steven, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. Steven

    Steven Guru Class Expert

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    Hi,

    My previous tank was not successful, some of the plants were failed to grow well and I've struggled for 7 months in vain until I recently decided to reset all things but basically almost all the scape and plants position remain the same.

    Here it goes :
    • pH = 5.8-7.0.
    • kH = 0-1dkH.
    • gH = 3-4dgH.
    • ADA AS I 1 bag capped with ADA AS II 1/2 bag.
    • Canister filter 1500L/H with surface skimmer.
    • Additional powerhead 800L/H for extra circulation.
    • Pressurized CO2 with external reactor up 5-6bps, DC with 4dkH solution shows lime green 4-5 hours after CO2 has been turn on.
    • Temp = 27-29C, mostly at 28C.
    • Tank 80x30x40cm.
    • Lighting 2x21watt T5NO 8 hours/day.

    The things that I make correction in hope for better growth environment are :
    • Increase the CO2 from previous 4-5bps to 5-6bps.
    • Change to stronger additional powerhead from previous 400L/H to 800L/H.
    • Re-position the input and output of main filter and change the output nozzle with vertical position spray bar in hope for better CO2 distribution.
    • Mixing 6500K bulb and 4000K bulbs.
    • Adding substrate bacteria (Bacter 100).

    Day 7
    [​IMG]
    I was providing O2 at night in hope for living the bacteria through aeration.

    Day 16
    [​IMG]
    Aerator has been removed because some of the plants have showed photosynthesis activity.

    Moderate surface agitation made from an extra 800L/H PH.
    [​IMG]

    The water has been clear after about 1 week but it is still yellowish due to AS I thus I am still using the activated carbon to reduce the yellowing. The pictures above were taken right after the 50-70% of 2 times a week of WC, so you are not noticing yellowish.

    Plants list :
    • Microsorum pteropus 'Neddle Leaf'.
    • Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite'.
    • Taxiphylum sp. Flame.
    • Rotala sp. Green.
    • Hemianthus micranthemoides.
    • Hemianthus callitrichoides.
    • Didiplis diandra.
    • The only left Pogostemon helferi.
    • Comparison plant Tonina sp. Belem.

    Noted that the only Tonina was intentionally been put beside the Hemianthus micranthemoides to see if the Tonina will grow to make it becomes a comparison plant since I read somewhere that it is quite a demanding plant in both nutrient and CO2 if not light.

    So far, the only stem Tonina has been sending 2 new side shoots and you can see it is growing taller but the HM are still struggling or adapting or adjusting and some of them have melted. Is it true that HM is hard water preferred plant so it is not suitable to try to grow it in pH reducing soil such as ADA AS?

    Suggestion and comment are very welcome. Thank you.
     
  2. marian4232

    marian4232 Subscriber

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    Nice scape.
    I like the driftwood a lot.

    I have one thing that i want to tell you.
    In my opinion you have to much surface agitation (it removes a lot of co2)
    In my tank i don't have any movement at the water surface (the plants are producing all the required oxygen).
    I don't even have a powerhead in my tank.
    The only water movement comes from my external canister which is measured to 200-300L / hour (the producer claims that the canister can filter 700L / hour).

    You are just like me when arranging the plants and the equipment.
    I like your tank and it looks promising.

    Keep up the good work.
     
  3. jeff5614

    jeff5614 Prolific Poster

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    Yes, the surface agitation removes CO2 more quickly but this can be compensated for by increasing the amount of CO2 that's being injected. Surface agitation is a good thing. It adds more O2 into the tank, yes, more than the plants will add. It also offgases the CO2 faster at night, both of which are good for the fish allowing them to tolerate higher CO2 levels during the day. Surface agitation is a good thing and not something to be avoided.
     
  4. Steven

    Steven Guru Class Expert

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    Thank you all, I also think that surface agitation that provide O2 is as important as CO2 that I injecting.
     
  5. marian4232

    marian4232 Subscriber

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    The O2 concentration supplied by the plants is higher than the O2 produced by the surface agitation.
    You might want to consider a pH controller which will keep you pH and CO2 concentration stable.
    This way you don't have to be afraid that you will inject to much CO2 at night.


    Good luck.
     
  6. Steven

    Steven Guru Class Expert

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    I don't inject CO2 at night, I use solenoid to turn the CO2 off at night and the pH varies between 7.0 to 5.8 day and night. So far not even a single critter that die due to the pH swing because the kH remains stable as some of my friends said that it is not wise to let the CO2 off at night that causing the pH swing too much that will create an unstable water environment. Is it true?
     
  7. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    Hi,

    If such a PH swing caused death, why can so many of use like yourself turn OFF the c02? Nobody would be able to alter ph if this were true using ANY method.

    I change 90% of my water weekly. PH in the tank is 6.2. PH out of the tap is 7.9. Yet the fish seem to 'frolic' and enjoy the water change.. How can this be if your friends assertions held water..

    I think you are doing the right thing not using c02 at night. If our c02 diffusion is good, we see that our PH goes down quite a lot within 60-90 minutes, no? I don't see my fish in any distress from this. I don't see any reports from anyone else here either, including yourself :)

    Tom points out that kh swings are more of an issue. Large temp swings can also be more of an issue with some species...
     
    #7 Gerryd, Sep 12, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 12, 2010
  8. Steven

    Steven Guru Class Expert

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    Update on day 29
    [​IMG]

    The Tonina has grown quite tall and has branched out 3 side shoots, also looks very healthy,
    [​IMG]
    but not as Hemianthus micranthemoides which is growing quite slow. Have to believe that HM is hardwater-preferred plant that is not suitable try to grow it in Aquasoil.

    Didiplis diandra have grown to quite tall also and I have trimmed them and moved to between the Rotala sp. Green.
     
  9. dbazuin

    dbazuin Guru Class Expert

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    Do you still use the active carbon?
    I believe it absorbs a lot of traces.

    Seachem purigen is a better way to get the color out.
     
  10. Steven

    Steven Guru Class Expert

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    Thank you for your confirmation and I will carry on of what I'm doing now.

    No, I've stopped it about 1 week ago, the yellowing water issue is still happening but it has been much better now. I will just keep my water change routine frequently until the discoloration dissapear but thanks for the info.
     
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