Pump to only power a 584 injector

[tim85]

Appreciate if folks can help me to choose a decent size pump that I will ONLY use to power a 584 Mazzei injector. I am thinking of either a Pan World or Iwaki.

I browsed into http://mazzei.net/tables/584.pdf , and am referring to their Notes:
2. Suction port: 1/4" (ID) tubing port shank OR 1/4" MNPT


Question:
a) what exactly is 'tubing port shank' ?
b) when ordering, do I need to specify I need which type ?


TIA.

 

[wilsar]

the shank will be a protrusion onto which you slide your tubing, in this case an inside diameter of 1/4 inch.

 

[Tom Barr]

You also will need to a have a loop by pass with a ball valve to adjust the flow to obtain the right amount of misting through the mazzei. A smaller iwaki should be fine. 20's should certainly do.

Regards,
Tom barr

 

[Gerryd]

Hi,

In case you do not know what Tom meant by a loop by pass, attached is a pic of a large one with extra ball valves and unions for ez maintenance and total adjustment.

The water flows IN from the left on the straight leg. The ball valve on the straight leg is CLOSED to send more water/pressure to the venturi on the top leg (the inverted U shape). Opening the valve reduces the pressure to the venturi.

Any water not sent to the mazzei passes the ball valve and is then merged back with the outflow from the venturi. You can see this merge on the right.....

The extra ball valves are for total flow control, backpressure, etc. The unit is larger as I used unions and such so I can swap mazzei models easily..........

I also added a PSI guage for fun!

And here is a thread with pics of a mazzei and the brass fittings I used to replace the nipple for better fit on my c02 tubing. I think you were on this one........

http://www.barrreport.com/co2-aquatic-plant-fertilization/4313-how-choose-mazzei-injector-4.html

You can see the fittings and the c02 hose in the attached shot as well. The thread shows them all separate. Actually the thread has some good info and is worth a read...........

Hope this helps.

 

[tim85]

Wilsar, Tom and Gerry thank you for the info.

I would love to plumb it like what Gerryd did, but unions are not cheap . Am saving now for the pump and the plumbs ...

I have two 1" holes drilled on the back of the tank (left and right corners). Water will flow thru 1" screen intakes ( Custom Aquatic - Store - Plumbing Fittings - Intake Screens | Drains | U-Tubes - [ 1 in Intake Screen MPT, Black ] ) and will be merged before going into the pump.

From the pump then into the 584 (yes, with loop bypass and such) and back to the tank.

Hope this will be my last questions:
1) With this kind of setup, if there is an outage, I am safe. So am I correct to assume that I DON'T need to add check valves on the PVC piping before and after the pump?


TIA

 

[Gerryd]

tim85,

Yes, the unions are expensive, but I have a 384 and 584 and can now switch them in moments.......if there is a need.

Here is a thread with a bypass with simple pvc:

http://www.barrreport.com/co2-aquat...uestions-observations-2.html?highlight=mazzei

You can make a bypass loop out of flex hose as well......quick and inexpensive to make the loop to see how it works.......and make improvements.

I know the LFS sells in-line ball valves that have barbed ends. Just slip the flex over the barb and you are good to go. The mazzei has threaded ends and they sell connectors that are threaded on one end and slip barb on the other. so flex hose fits right on..........now venturi is connected to flex and rest of loop..

Here is a thread with an example:

http://www.barrreport.com/articles/2282-diy-external-inline-co2-diffuser.html?highlight=mazzei

Some folks switch the control ball valve and venturi positions. The straight leg will get more direct flow/pressure and make the venturi more efficient.

I used flex hose for my first two attempts before I built that thing, trust me lol

Don't forget to place sponges over the intake strainers and to rinse 2x a week!

I would place a ball valve both before and after the pump. You will regret it if you don't....

Yes, no issues if the pump goes off. You will have a closed loop if you connect the intakes to the T and then the pump, and then the outlet goes back to the tank...

You do not have a sump or overflows do you? That would change my answer in a big way.............

How do these holes drain and where exactly are they?

Details please. I do not want to be the cause of a water overflow!!!!

 

[Tom Barr]

They make a union + valve together to make it much easier to reduce the no# of things you need.

marineandreef.com/ Reef Aquarium Supply (Aquarium Lighting, Coralife light, Aquarium Light, Power Compact, Compact Fluorescent, Metal Halide Lights, Aquarium Chillers, Aquarium Pumps, Coralife lighting, UV Sterilizer, Reef Aquarium, Current USA AquaP

I found some for 10$ or so.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

[tim85]

Tom. thank you for that link.

How do these holes drain and where exactly are they?

Details please. I do not want to be the cause of a water overflow!!!!

I was thinking of drawing a simple diagram but wifey and the kids quickly got in the way.

The 2 holes were drilled on the tank bottom, one on the left rear corner and the other on the right rear corner. So I will fix a screen intake onto each hole, water flows into them, then merged into a pump that drives the Mazzei.

No, I DO NOT have sump and overflow. I have two units of Eheim 2228 for filtration and clean them every month. I also use 2 units of Koralia IV to add more flow.

At present I am using 2 units of ceramic diffusers. I really really really hate cleaning them every week.

 

[Gerryd]

Tim,

They have those combo union/ball valves at Home depot and Loewes, as you can see one on my unit...........is where I got all my pvc parts.......

Okay, you are good to go then as you will be gravity fed and totally closed loop.

How will you route the flow out of the mazzei back to the tank?

 

[tim85]

Tim,

They have those combo union/ball valves at Home depot and Loewes, as you can see one on my unit...........is where I got all my pvc parts.......

Great. I have checked their websites.

How will you route the flow out of the mazzei back to the tank?

As per the recommendation given by you and Tom, I will definitely plumb along the 'loop bypass' way. Any water not sent to the mazzei passes the ball valve and is then merged back with the outflow from the venturi.

I will have to see if that adds TOO MUCH flow in my 180g. If it does, then I can always take out one of the Koralia.

All, thanks for your advises. I really really appreciate them.