Proper C02 Management

[samh]

Hey guys,

Been having more success with my plants atm, with more flow and better co2 diffusion, DIY needle wheel and an ista 2000 reactor. Though my question is about the proper set-up of a ph controller and the co2 injection overnight?

Currently i have the ph controller on a timer so an hour before the lights turn off the ph controller turns off, shutting down the co2 supply... then when the lights turn off a aerator turns on to oxygenate the tank so the fish don't gasp.

Is this correct, because i read that plants such as P. Stellatus and E. Setaceum need the co2 managed 24/7?

Cheers,
Sam

 

[dutchy]

I have lots of P. Stellatus in my tank which grow up to 9 inch in diameter but my CO2 is only on during the lights on period. (starts 1 hour before). I'm using the exact same way you do, only I don't use an aerator, but lots of surface ripple. I've never seen any bad side effects using this method.

regards,
dutchy.

 

[samh]

Do you keep it rippling during the lights on period?
My P. Stellatus has definately improved approx half the size of yours. I've only just started using mist from a needle wheel though hopefully this will improve. Do you use lots of blue spec in yours lights to get it so bushy?

Sam

 

[dutchy]

The ripple is always present, day and night.

The good growth I get is because of relative low light and high CO2. Plants can grow unlimited and reach their maximum potential that way. I get P. Stellatus stems up to half an inch thick.

I changed the scape and have a group of 18 plants now. But it's a small window in which they show their maximum potential. A little bit more light or less CO2 and they stunt or stay smaller than normal. You can see progress very well in this plant because when it grows it allows you to look back in the past. If you modify something and the plants answers with bigger and longer leaves you're on the right track.

Good CO2 will get it bushy, irrespective of spectrum.


regards,
dutchy

 

[Gerryd]

Hi samh,

I would advise keeping your 02 introduction when c02 is off in addition to adding some surface ripple.

Extra 02 is not going to hurt anything and will benefit your fish and critters, esp with injecting c02.

I have gassed fish even when c02 was off for several hours due to a basic change/loss of 02.

Please note also that PH controllers will respond to ANY changes in PH, regardless of CAUSE.

This is important to remember as not all ph swings are due to c02. So, this may cause you to cycle on/off incorrectly.

 

[samh]

I have reduced my light considerably and am on the right track with lighting i think although i'm unable to bring out reds in any plants yet. How do you manage getting reds with lower lighting levels?

I have thought of that with ph control which was one of my queries with it. Like when people say they keep there ph a constant level say 6.9, how you know it's being controlled that way by co2 and whether it's optimum.

I set my ph controller to turn off when my drop checkers are a lime/lemon green and i use 2 at opposite ends of the tank. I'm still improving flow as well getting it right so i'm not blowing plants at right angles and getting enough to circulate.

 

[dutchy]

I also use a pH controller, but I don't care too much about the number on the display. I have learned to watch my plants and give them what they need. I still think a controller has advantages because it compensates for changing conditions when plants grow over space and time.
An uncontrolled system will irreversibly cause pH changes between the start and the end of the photoperiod. This could easily lead to shortages in the morning and excess CO2 in the evening. Also swings in working pressure can change the actual CO2 level in the tank.
So each system has advantages and disadvantages.

Using relatively low light means plants wil stay greener, although they will colour in the upper part of the tank. I compensate this with using plants that are red by themselves like Althernanthera, Ludwigia Peruensis and Rotala Macandra.

I also like plants which have pretty collours, but often there is a trade off as more light gives faster growth and more chance of algae.

 

[samh]

I agree. I felt like i was working blindly when i didn't have the controller, now i have something to work off. You can see how fast the co2 saturates the tank in the morning before lights on and how much it slows down when the plants start absorbing it around midday. A drop checker doesn't give you that infomation. Hmmm so i need plants that are always red regardless of light. It's going to be hard finding native plants here that are always red in low light in carbon rich places... I think there's a broad leaf "Pogo" here that's red orange, But most of our plants are red due to intense light in the tropics...

Have you had experience with the red Ammania's, Rotala Colorata, Ludwigia Arcuata? Do these stay red?

 

[dutchy]

At 55 micromols of PAR at the substrate these plants only colour in the upper third part of the tank. I have to turn it up to 90 to get full colour, but I haven't been able to prevent getting a little bit of stunting and algae at this level.

Personally I like a bright tank with nice colours more, but the trade-offs prevent me from actually using it.

regards,
dutchy

 

[samh]

Hi Dutchy,

What depths are those measurements out of curiosity, My pogo atm are 60cm tall and some have drooping dark green leaves, but i put that down to poor substrate quality and inefficient co2 supply (solenoid broke, ran out of gas and couldn't get a refill for 4 days because of severe flooding here). What have you noticed to cause drooping in lower leaves of Pogostemon?

 

[dutchy]

Definately CO2. My Stellatas look like porcupines I measure my PAR levels at 20 inch. The actual number of bulbs and presence of reflectors is of great influence of course.

regards,
dutchy

 

[samh]

Cheers Dutchy,
Oh ok, because i did do my substrate wrong as i just had normal black gravel/sand then i put amazonia over the top... it should be the other way around, so i was wondering if that would cause loss of lower leaves. My co2 has improved since i run one reactor and i made a needle wheel which blows onto the Pogo and growth has been quite fast, they're at the surface so i'mn going to top them and re-plant. Any tips for pruning this plant specifically? I hardly find anyone else around me who tries this plant... i think it scares people off....