Pressurized co2 plumbing across a room

There really shouldn't be much of a pressure drop across the room. You could use a larger I.D. tubing though if you're really concerned. 1/4" ought to be plenty. Just try connecting a 20' coil of tubing and see if you're getting the flow you want before you run the line under the carpet.

As for running the tubing, I'd avoid going under the carpet if at all possible. That's asking for troubles with the tubing, the carpet looking nice, etc. The best place to run tubing like this would be behind the base molding. There should be just enough space there for you to run the tubing around the perimeter of the room. Behind crown molding might work also if you have that. And finally, if the floor joists are running in the right direction you could run the tubing inside and up the wall, then into the ceiling, across the room, back into the wall and down to your aquarium. Digging into the walls isn't for the light of heart, but that's the way I'd do it.

As for the kind of tubing, this is one instance where you probably do want to use something that's impermiable to CO2. The increased I.D. and the length of the run increase the potential for CO2 loss considerably. If you run the line in a location that isn't likely to be stepped on or messed with then you can go with a soft flexible tubing and be just fine. In that case you want 1/4" I.D. PVC tubing. (Same stuff all the planted-tank stores are selling only larger I.D.)

 

Reinforced Tubing, Absolutely!

Hi,

I recommend going with a reinforced beverage CO2 line. I think any line over 2-feet or so should be reinforced tubing.

I misplaced the people that made mine this is an example though.
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=853

Biollante

 

That reinforced tubing is awful thick, O.D. It would definitely be more difficult to hide depending on how / where he plans on running it. It's also vinyl, not PVC which means higher CO2 permeability.

 

I don't think you have to worry about pressure drop too much. Use the I.D. that fits your current connections, but thicker walled than regular airline tubing and CO2 resistant. Like 1/4" O.D. x 1/8" I.D. PVC tubing for example. Here is a table with some CO2 permeability data: http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/techinfo.asp?htmlfile=SelectingTubing.htm

 

Reinforced Clear PVC Tubing Polyester Braid
Chemical resistant but also meets FDA standards and CFR Title 21 parts 170-199. Non-toxic, crystal clear, ozone resistant. Service temperature +25°F to 150°F. Self extinguishing. Heavy wall is kink resistant. Burst pressure 4 times W.P. 72 Durometer. Standard length is 100'. Tubing is priced per foot; sold in 10 ft. intervals only.

1/8" I.D. x .328 O.D. Reinforced Clear PVC Tubing Polyester Braid: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=44400&catid=736

This one's OD is almost 1/3" vs 1/4" for 'normal' tubing. It's reinforced. PVC's permeability to CO2 is practically 0 (6.8 on the Cole-Parmer chart). It has the normal 1/8" Id and it's $0.27 per foot. Qty 100 ft: 5% off

 

Are you going to be running two needle valves and two bubble counters?

 

Nice find Left C!

Good question, I was about to ask the same thing.

 

Link Rustler

Hi,

Left C found my link.

My house and out buildings are plumbed for CO2 delivery, we use rigid and reinforced tubing “beverage” grade stuff, very little tubing. In addition to those listed by Left C the advantages of reinforced include very low CO2 loss and drastic reduction in pressure fluctuation due to tubing.

Biollante

 

Nope ... Your link didn't list any 1/8" ID reinforced tubing and mine did.

 

On a long run of thin vinyl tubing you'll get more CO2 loss to permeation that you normally wouldn't notice on a short run. If I were in your shoes though I think I'd just accept the CO2 loss as the cost of doing business. I say that because with a dull / blunted putty knife you should still be able to squeeze 1/4" I.D. (NON-braided / NON-reinforced, ie. the thin O.D. stuff) under the base molding. It will be snug getting it in there but there's usually a gap beyond the edge of the carpet tucked under the molding. This is a better solution to running the tubing directly across the room under the carpet, and your landlord will never know. Even if you run the tubing under the carpet directly across the room, the thinner the tubing the better to keep it as unobtrusive as possible.

 

You wouldn't want to run it under the carpet. Even running something like coaxial cable sticks out like a sore thumb. I don't think the CO2 loss from using less than ideal material will translate to something that would translate into any significant extra cost. Use the easiest material to install and call it a day. So, maybe you spend $5.00 more in CO2 - BFD!

 

That link was just to provide comparison info on the different types of tubing for CO2 permeability. I think you should go with the smallest diameter, thickest wall tubing that you can fit where you need to run it and fit on your connections. You don't need reinforced tubing because we are working with low pressures but it wouldn't hurt either, especially if there is the chance the tubing will be stepped on. The link that Left C provided is on the money, but if you have a source of "aquarium line" that you are sure is PVC, then that should be just fine because PVC is one of the least permeable to CO2 according to that table.

 

I've used these Hagen Elite gang valves to split CO2 into more than one aquarium using only a single needle valve. The description says that they won't leak up to 5 psi. They make 2, 3, 4 and 5 valve models. I got mine at Pet Smart. http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/sub_category_psubtype.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PSUBCAT=10103

 

Loop That's the same tubing that I linked in post #6 and S&KGray suggests in post #14 and Biollante originally suggested in post #3.

It's should work fine.