This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.

    https://barrreport.com/threads/aquatic-plant-images-wanted.14374/
    Dismiss Notice

Planning A Dream Discus Tank

Discussion in 'Talk to Tom Barr' started by andye, Nov 1, 2007.

  1. andye

    andye Lifetime Members
    Lifetime Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2007
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    Hi,

    I just have to say I am new to this site and love it. Some feedback as to my newest project would be much appreciated. I am planning planted discus tank (6 feet by 2 feet by 28 inches high) starphire glass. I am going to use ADA products for the substrate (unless you and others convince me othrewise). I am keeping it simple with driftwood, rocks, white sand in front, and Amazon Swords (Large ones!) in the back. I plan on having an open top with 3 suspended MH (150 watt each or possibly suspended T-5's. Any preference?

    Filtration will be an Eheim pro III, CO2 will be provided by an amanono lily pipe diffuser.

    I plan on having 8 discus starting out at 4.5 inches or so, a school of rummynose tetras (15) and 10 cories. For algae eaters, amano shrimp.

    What are your thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Andy
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Messages:
    18,648
    Likes Received:
    556
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    I'm doing a similar sized tank coming up, different fish, layout etc.
    But same size and type glass, open top, MH's etc.

    I may get a set of Giesmann HQI's(3x150W), or thre AM pedents, or perhaps a sexy series 3x150, 2x70w.

    I plan on having a tracking movement on the lights however.

    I'd get more filter, and a wet dry if I where use.
    At least 2 large Ehiems or a lg Ehiem and a wet/dry.

    I do not like the in/out glass ware.
    They have to be cleaned often, and they break VERY EASILY.

    I'll just use a pre drill hole set for the closed canister loop on the bottom of the tank, with a Tee added so I can backwash the filters and also drain the tank.

    So you will not see the in/out at all.
    The wet/dry will have a CPR like overflow skimmer box and Lok line returns.
    These can be removed for photos(unlike a built in over flow).

    Pack filter with zeolite and sponge.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr


















    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  3. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
    Lifetime Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2007
    Messages:
    5,623
    Likes Received:
    18
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    Hi Andy,

    I have a 72x24x24 open top and use 3X150w6500k MH suspended about 12" above the tank and they work very well. You may want to hang them so they are adjustable as this makes things very EZ......

    I can grow whatever I want and the ripple effect is very nice :)

    Best of luck.

    Please post some pics when done!
     
  4. andye

    andye Lifetime Members
    Lifetime Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2007
    Messages:
    49
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    Thanks Guys! I will post pics when I am all set up. The tank and stand are being made now. I expect it all to be don by January '08.

    Cheers!
    Andy
     
  5. David Hui

    David Hui Lifetime Charter Member
    Lifetime Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    33
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    Andy,

    You may consider a open space with low growing plants or plain substrate when you create your aquascaping. The open area will used as feed area for discus.

    David
     
  6. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
    Staff Member Administrator

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2005
    Messages:
    18,648
    Likes Received:
    556
    Local Time:
    11:09 AM
    Also, since the tank is open top and many like peering in from above, and the tank is 24" tall, a 30" tall stand might not be ideal, I opted for a 24" stand.
    This makes working on the tank easier. Also, all my stands in the house are 24", and the tank's are that high as well.

    Since this tank will be plantless in the front, I'd suggest placing the MH's towards the rear only, the back where the plants are only.

    For fish viewing, you may need room lighting or be able to move the lights forward so they strike the fish's broad side. If the light are in the rear where the plants are, they obviously will be only outlined and shadows.

    T5's would be nice in the front, but you cannot have the aesthetics, open top and good lighting for the plants all in one unless you use room ambient light etc.

    Lower lighting tends to not wash colors out as much.

    I gave this a lot of thought and decided to have a moving light, but my tanks are entirely planted.

    I use a rotation circle of 6" for the 60 gal 24" cubes(basically a clock hour hand that moves slowly around every hour).

    And I use a track with a direct drive motor inside the stand to move the light bar that will hold the lights. In order for it to work correctly, I have to place inside the stand, the lights will move about 14" front to back every 30min.

    I think for your system, if you could leave the lights in the rear most of the time, but have the option to move them forward etc, that would be ideal.
    Most MH pendents tend to have good adjustment up/down, but poor side to side/front to back.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     

Share This Page