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Photoperiod and light quantities, chlorosis?

Discussion in 'Advanced Strategies and Fertilization' started by m lemay, Feb 5, 2005.

  1. m lemay

    m lemay Prolific Poster

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    I'm not sure if this is the correct forum for this question. If it's not, a mod can move it.

    I just recently revamed my lighting on my 75 Gal tank from 220 watts pc lights to 330 watts pc lights, basically 6-55 watt GE 9325k Fresh/saltwater bulbs with AH supply reflectors and a 12 hr photoperiod. These are great bulbs and the plants respond really well to these bulbs.

    Now for the problem. I think my light intensity may be a bit much, and the photo period a little long and heres why. I've been dosing using the EI method and testing water parameters rgularly every 2 days or so.

    Heres my typical parameters.
    N=10-20ppm
    P= 1-2.5ppm
    F= 10ppm dosed only at water change(might need more,I think)
    8mls/day flourish dosed automatically via Eheim liquidoser@ 2mls 4x/day=56mls total weekly(maximum dosing allowable with this system)
    Fe=on top of flourish 5ml 2x/week=.1 fe in a 75gal.
    Gh= 6ppm, largely calcium carbonate from substrate, I dose Mg at water change to 5ppm, 2 teaspoons at water change.

    Symptoms: brown algae on E. Stelatta on old growth, also seems stunted, growth has slowed way down. Brown algae on Compacta sword leaves. Chlorosis on java fern leaves (yellow leaf,with translucent tips, mostly new growth). New growth on compacta sword has intervenal chlorosis(green veins, white in between).

    I suspected Mg deficiency right off the bat 1 month ago and began adding Mg at the dose stated above, but that really hasn't changed much. Maybe I need more Mg.

    I had none of these problems before the lights were upgraded to 330 watts. I'm considering a graduated light schedule, 110 watts for 2hr, 220 for 2 hour, 330 for 4 hrs, then back down to 220 for 2 hrs and 110 for 2 hr. for a total of 12 hrs. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

    Marcel
     
  2. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
    Staff Member Administrator Social Group Admin

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    Re: Photoperiod and light quantities, chlorosis?

    I don't trust pH controllers, you can, I don't.

    If your GH is 5 or so, you'll be fine. SeaChem Eq will take care of the Trace/GH/K+ issue.

    KNO3/KH2PO4 is addressed.

    All that's left and is the greatest "nutrient" in demand when you raise the light intensity?

    CO2.........90% minmum of the algae issues are related to this one parameters.

    I know I know, my test say yada yada...........
    You add CO2 for the plants so do that, stop monkeying with these control devices and pH measurements.

    You have some play here, use some Riccia etc to see if you have good pearling within 2-4 hours after the lights come on.

    pH controllers keep high chronic CO2 levels, I pump CO2 in at a high rate for 8-10 hours, the rest of the time I add none, so this is less stress on the fish and adds CO2 only when I need it.

    I have all the $ I want to do anything I want with CO2, I still don';t like pH controllers.

    Monitors are another story.

    Stray current form lighting and other sources will deprerss the pH and fool you into thinking you have enough CO2 when the lights are on, this adds less CO2 when you need it most...........KH measurements change but the pH is still at a set point.

    The amount of gas I add with a non pH controlled system is stable independent of the KH..........

    Amano hates them, Neil Frank too. We all use them for monitoring only.

    Add more CO2 till you see a good response and turn it down if the fish gasp, increase surface movement some also. Fish need O2 and too little movement there combined with so so plant growth will make a bad combo. You can always add a bit more CO2 to make up for that

    Regards,
    Tom Barr
     
  3. m lemay

    m lemay Prolific Poster

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    Re: Photoperiod and light quantities, chlorosis?

    I neglected to mention that my tap water GH/KH is less than 1 degree of hardness. Hence the reason why I added some crushed coral to the substrate to Keep Kh/Gh at reasonable levels. But crushed coral doesn't contain Mg which up until a month ago was only added in minute amounts as per PMDD.

    2 hours after light goes on, the whole tank is bubbling O2 like crazy, I could turn it up more though if you think it'll help. Will shutting co2 off at night help the plants?

    As for riccia, the last time I had that stuff in my tank, it took me months to get rid of it all, so I'm not too crazy about putting that into the tank.

    What is Seachem Eq, I've never used it? Would I use it in conjunction with flourish?

    I do see your point on having a steady co2 rate. Kh variation is an issue in my tank between water changes because of the crushed coral in the substrate. It can vary from 3dkh immediately after W/C to 6 dkh before W/C.

    What about the amount of light, is 4.4wpg for 12 hours too much to manage?

    Marcel


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