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PH Buffer, measuring CO2, and green water (newbie!)

Discussion in 'CO2 Enrichment' started by TTKarl, Dec 12, 2006.

  1. TTKarl

    TTKarl Junior Poster

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    Ok, here's the story. I decided to up my light on my 26 bow from the factory 15w hood to a 65w compact. Got the light everything was good. PH was low for some reason or another 6.5. Went to LFS go PH buffer(what a nightmare!) Added buffer ph at 7 green water 2 days later(also added planttabs fert and plantgro). Ok, found that phosphates were high off the charts! 5ppm in tap plus whatever the ph buffer added. Ok, so I bought a tap water filter and added phoszorb to whisper 40 filter. Still green water 1 week later no phosphates. Decided I needed co2, built co2 reactor with crude co2 bell, and did 50% water change. Green water 1 week later. Got mad and added algaefix. Still green but i could just barely make out the back. KH at 1 degrees added some baking soda, now at 2.5, PH still at 7. Two days later decided ,ok, bell must not be effective enough. Built Barr reactor (kudos to Tom for that by they way! what a inovative design) It's been running for 1 day with still no ph drop.

    1. Is it possible that i'm not reading the PH drop from CO2 due to the remaining PH buffer in the water? Or is the buffer bonding with the CO2 and making it unreachable by the plants?

    no ammonia, nitrites reading with test kit.

    2. If I am getting CO2 should I see the green water subside?
     
    #1 TTKarl, Dec 12, 2006
  2. VaughnH

    VaughnH Lifetime Charter Member
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    You have several problems all rolled up together. Why don't you do a big water change to get rid of as much of the chemicals you have been adding as you can. Then, either totally blackout the tank with multiple layers of black plastic garbage bags or blankets - no peeking for 3 days. That should kill off the green water algae, so you can do another big water change, 75% or more, to get rid of the dead algae floating in the water and settled on the substrate. If you have or can get a UV filter, you can use it instead of the blackout to kill off the green water algae. Now, you are ready to start an EI fertilizing routine, limit the lighting to 8 hours a day, and don't use the test kits at all, except for pH, KH and GH, but don't be concerned about what the pH is, and don't be very concerned about the other two. Once the plants get started growing well the algae problems will be much easier to handle.
     
    #2 VaughnH, Dec 12, 2006
  3. TTKarl

    TTKarl Junior Poster

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    Thanks for the advice!

    Ok, so tommorow big water change, then blackout. I've reduced the lighting for the past 2 days to 2 hours. Seemed to help stop the propgation of the algae. I have to say it's gonna be hard not to peek! But, i can't take this green water anymore it's making me crazy!!

    One more question about the uv filter. I thought about going that route or a micron filter but for one it's christmas and the piggy bank is a little sparce. Two i have read somewhere that uv filters oxidize the fertilizers in the water column, is there any truth to this? I may purchase one after christmas for future outbreaks as I'm sure there will be one or two!
     
    #3 TTKarl, Dec 12, 2006
  4. Professor Myers

    Professor Myers Guru Class Expert

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    U.V. Oxidation of Trace elements

    This is pretty much a myth ! Certainly nothing significant any way. In your case an 18/25 W unit should eliminate green water for that volume.

    A diatom filter is not always effective for Green Water. However used in conjunction with 18 W + U.V. it is extremely thorough ! At 3X U.V. irradiation the algae will congeal, and "THEN" it is easily removed by the Diatom.

    Stick with the Blackout and follow the directions to the T.
     
    #4 Professor Myers, Dec 13, 2006
  5. TTKarl

    TTKarl Junior Poster

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    I just wanted to stop back buy and thank everyone for there help! A few minutes of your time turned the tides for my tank!!

    Went from this:[​IMG]


    To this [​IMG]
     
    #5 TTKarl, Apr 3, 2007
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