Nu-Clear

[inkslinger]

Is the Nu-Clear 506 w/o Media the same as 547 w/Bio Balls?
I don't have the room but has any one mix these filter with any extension , Let's say a 533 with a 1547 extension, I was just wondering?
Because every where i see these filter they say not to mix with different extension but all the canister filters look to be built the same but with different media?
I gust the best way to run the 533 and 547 {or506} would be in line together with the 533 first.

 

[Gerryd]

Inkslinger,

I THINK that many of the NC models have the same basic canister size, but since the FLOW rates for the media is different, I can see why they would not recommend switching model/extensions.

From one of the links:

Nu-Clear filters feature heavy duty molded PVC construction with a stainless steel lid clamp for secure leak free operation and carry a 2 year guarantee. The filter bodies are approximately 13" wide and 12.5" tall (overall width with fittings is 15”). An additional clearance of 8” above the filter is required to remove the cartridge for cleaning. Nu-Clear filters have 1" FNPT inlet and outlet ports allowing for higher flow rates (up to 1,200 gallons/hr) than similar filters with 3/4” ports. All models come with adapters for 3/4" and 1" hose, stainless steel hose clamps, Teflon tape, and a drain valve.

Inland Seas Aquarium and Pond Products: Nu-Clear Modular Canister Filters

It SEEMS that you could discard any of the media for the NC models and have a 506, except for possibly flow rates.....

The extension basically is like putting one NC on top of another.

You can run the two models in series as you say you want, but also parallel and rejoin the flows at the OUTPUT of the canisters and back to the tank. The first filter will clog and the second one in line will simply get less flow when run in series, so it is more limited options IMO.....

I am awating delivery on my 547 NC and will most likely install in parallel with my NC 533 and have my mazzei AFTER the 546.......so, pump to T, leg 1 to ball valve and NC 546 and mazzei (with bypass loop), leg 2 to ball valve and NC 533, then merge both back using a second T, and then to dual returns to tank. Am playing with the though of also stuffing a 522 in front of the bio/mazzei leg (nc 522/nc 547/mazzei ) but not sure if my pump can handle OR I have the room LOL

I assume that the 533 will clog sooner than the bio/venturi leg and thus force MORE pressure to the bio/venturi, so will have to watch as the 533 PSI guage goes up......
am pretty sure Tom has reported this on his starfire build.................I think he is setup this way in parallel.

The site above does mention slower flow rates/less clogging on some of the models in comparison to the purely mech models like the 533 and no need of cartride BLEACHNG, so I think mixing and matching could be problematic.

I wish the 547 came with a PSI guage but I don't see it included........I will install a guage on this leg......

I may fill a portion of the 547 with ceramic rings instead of the bio-balls............

Hope this helps.

Good luck with your choice/setup!

 

[JDowns]

The inside bottoms are different.

The cartridge canisters are designed so the center matching the cartridge is the flow out.

The 547 has a solid bottom with multiple holes for even flow throughout the canister to the output.

So they are different in the internal design per application.

 

[inkslinger]

So is it best to run the 547 after the 533 because the 533 will filter an polish the water an clog up first an the bio balls will filter the water by bacteria means . I still want to get is In Line Heater {Heaters the only place that offers Custom fitted for Titanium heaters with bushing and centering collar for in line module} , CO2 Reactor and UV Light.
Should I run the last 3 in series with the 2 Filters would it slow the flow down a lot or go 2 leg parallel ?

 

[JDowns]

So is it best to run the 547 after the 533 because the 533 will filter an polish the water an clog up first an the bio balls will filter the water by bacteria means . I still want to get is In Line Heater {Heaters the only place that offers Custom fitted for Titanium heaters with bushing and centering collar for in line module} , CO2 Reactor and UV Light.
Should I run the last 3 in series with the 2 Filters would it slow the flow down a lot or go 2 leg parallel ?

I ran mine in series 533 then the 547. I only noticed a half a psi difference with the addition of the 547. What pump are you running, the 55? I can't find the thread from the other discussion. Be nice to consolidate this here. What pump, size tank, number of outputs inside tank. Then Gerry can answer all your questions

I ended up dumping the bio mine came with and use ZeoSand. But thats another experiment all together.

I would think you want the UV on its own leg though. This way you can regulate the flow through the UV with a ball valve to match its flow rating. Personally I would run the UV after the 533 so cleaner water is processed, cutting down on the maintenance of the UV.

Also set up your system on paper to make maintenance and options as optimal as possible. Ie ball valves, unions, true wyes, etc.

 

[inkslinger]

sorry i thought i did have that info: Tank is a 110g tank , close loop is 1 inch ,Blue Line 55 HD 1100gph 2 return -1inch to 3/4 inch to 1/2inch Y split {Loc Line} but if I do get rid of my Eheim Pro 2 2028 I will add another return with the Y split
Just got my NC 533 Today very nice filter I'm empress

 

[Gerryd]

Inkslinger,

Just to complicate things, you know that Ocean Clear canister have units with a built-in UV and or heater? I think Tom uses the UV one. May be worth a look to combine some components....

With all your components, I would run parallel with the NC 533 on one leg and the bio-filter (???) and c02 device (??) on the other leg. Combine both of these and run that flow through the heater so all water is filtered one way or the other and then heated.

Then you can install a UV on each or one of the RETURN lines. This way all the filtered/c02 enriched/heated water is combined before it goes to the tank. One return could handle the slower UV flow and the rest sent to the other return without restriction.

If the heater is too little flow rated for the return, put a small heater on one return line and the UV on the other. You will lose some flow but add a powerhead for more current/flow.

I would keep the eheim until the bio filter is underway then remove it. You will not need it IMO/IME if the NC is run properly..........

After some consideration I did not use a UV as I had planned and am glad I did not. I have seen no need for it so far.

I think the 533 and 547 would give you plenty of filtration with no need for a UV for your size tank.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Jdowns will take the next set of questions

 

[JDowns]

I agree with Gerry's points.

I would definatly look into the Ocean Clears with the built in UV / Heaters. That would simplify things. If you already have the Nu-Clear units then that idea is bust. I fully agree that you should setup the UV and Heater so polished water is running through them. A ball valve prior to the UV and CO2 I think would be a must so you can regulate that flow for optimum performance. For the UV to match its flow rating (to fast and you might as well not even plumb it ). For the reactor also so you can optimize dissolution.

I run mine in series, while Gerry, Tom, and others in parallel. I think that shows you can have sucess with either setup.

With the amount of configurations Gerry has tried I think he has found the sweet spot in that type of setup.

Definatly keep the canister running until the NuClear bio unit is established.

As for the UV if you can plumb your system so it can be added at a later date easily that is the route I would go. But thats from my own experience of not needing one (knock on wood).

Also with that pump and the NuClear type units your going to have plenty of flow and turn over. When I finally get rid of my 9.5's in parallel that is the pump rating I will be going with.

 

[inkslinger]

JDowns did i read some where that you are running DIY CO2 Reactor if so what is the size 2x15 ? I was thinking of running a 3x24 Reactor or just tap out my Aqua Medic 1000 Reactor for a 1 inch hook up like this:
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/...n-wall hi-tech planted aquarium/plumbing3.jpg

Just got to fig out what size bits he use?

 

[JDowns]

JDowns did i read some where that you are running DIY CO2 Reactor if so what is the size 2x15 ? I was thinking of running a 3x24 Reactor or just tap out my Aqua Medic 1000 Reactor for a 1 inch hook up like this:
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/...n-wall hi-tech planted aquarium/plumbing3.jpg

Just got to fig out what size bits he use?

Right now I'm experimenting with 2 different methods.

1. Half Co2 through a diffuser fed into a Mag 5 that pushes the mist around the tank. Half fed into the input prior to the pumps feeding the Nu-Clear units.

2. All Co2 through a diffuser fed into a Mag 5 that pushes the mist around the tank.


The Nu-Clears act as a reactor, disolving the CO2 entirely. Way to early in this new setup to decern any noticable difference. Things are still settling in.

Although with the past setup when the tank was jam packed full of plants with adequate leaf space to catch CO2 mist. Setup 2 seemed to produce the best results. I got much better coloration, less lower leaf loss, and my mosses seemed to do better.

I use to hate the mist look. But the plant health outweighed the viewing discomfort. I'm use to the look now that it doesn't bother me. Healthier plants + Mist > Poor plants + No Mist in my book. Thats not to say you can't have healthy plants without mist. It just works better in my setup. Don't be afraid to experiment with different methods. Just make sure to make adjustements slowly over a few weeks time to be able to view fauna and plant growth differences. Also lower light during experimentation is wise. Once you find the sweet spot then you can increase lighting safer.

 

[Gerryd]

Hey,

Well I just got my NC 547 delivered along with a brand spanking new NC 533 cartridge!

NC 547 does NOT come with the PSI guage like the 533 and others do. A little disappointed there......

Now I can do the final trip to the hardware store for the remaining unions/fittings, more flex PVC 1", and more fresh PVC glue....lol

I will do the new config this weekend. I wanted to see what is was with a brand new 533 cartridge although the others work fine just not sparkling white anymore...........

I will be adding the new Mazzei bypass loop along with the 547 bio.......and a PSI guage or two The new venturi loop will have ball valves for and aft for control/testing, and the mazzei section will be connected via true unions so I can easily/quickly swap the 384 and 584 models I have, to really do some testing/playing around........

So new hose, fittings, etc should be give me like new performance and be able to set some new benchmarks.

Will let you know how it works, but will be in parallel at least for the first attempt lol. I am pretty sure my pump can handle serial with no issues, but I like the parallel route as I think it offers more/better options/fail safes.

The length from end to one may be substantial as I have to go from one end to another for the input and then double back for the output merge.

Flex hose PVC will work great here I think........

Will keep you posted!

Ink,

Let us know what you decide on.......

Jdowns,

You still owe us a DETAILED thread on your changes. Had you done this, Inkslinger would have all the info he needs lol

 

[inkslinger]

Will its going to be awhile , buy a part here buy part a there, I should be going back to work soon been off for 6 month on workman's com. injured list. Plus I been selling some old equipment locally on;
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I'm also thinking of replacing my Soil Master Select {I don't like it!} with Eco Complete and if I sell Eheim Pro 2 I will replace it with 547. I guessing Spring/Summer. But I will be keeping a eye out for your info on your setups.

 

[inkslinger]

I should be ordering my spare filter for my 533 soon, Know why do you bleach the filter? Doesn't rinsing it with a spray hose good enough for cleaning the filter?

 

[inkslinger]

Is the Nu-Clear 546 Bio-Disc Cartridge any better than the Nu-Clear 547 BIO Balls. Don't they both work the same way in cleaning biologically ?

 

[Gerryd]

Ink,

As far as bleaching after rinsing the cartridge, I would think it is due to the micron size. This filter captures extremely tiny particle of debris and it may not be easily rinsed out with direct spraying. The bleaching helps remove these finer particles. I tend to soak mine in chlorine/water, rinse and repeat, as the chlorine bath loosens particles. Y
You can just let it soak, then shake it in the bucket and you will see the water turn dirty. Rinse and bath cycle work well based on how dirty the filter is.

Then give it the same treatment using Prime or something.

I think I am going to do like Jdowns and just replace them every 2 weeks (he does weekly), and that should keep the amount of dirt trapped down and easily cleansed.

I think the difference in the two bio units is the same type of difference between bio-balls and ceramic rings and other media of this type. One may be 'better' in some respects (surface area) for beneficial bacteria, but either one will do the job.

Remember you are talking using 2 large canisters on a not too large tank, 75 or 90 gal right?. You will have plenty of filtration

My 533 alone does a great job on my 180...........

 

[inkslinger]

It's a 110g tank, So do I use 1 cup of bleach in a half filled 5g bucket ?
What would be the proper portion of bleach 1/4 ,1/2, 3/4 cup ?

 

[Gerryd]

I have used only chlorine they sell for swimming pools.

I usually use a quart of chlorine to a bucket large enough to completely submerge the cartridge. Bucket is at least 5 gallons of water.

I rinse well, then I soak for 1-2 days. Rinse well and give another bath for 1-2 more days. You will see the water gets nasty...........

Then daily changes of water and Prime for 3-4 days to dechlorinate.

I then just keep it in a fresh water/Prime solution until it is time to change the dirty one..............

Still plenty for a 110, sorry I forgot...........

 

[inkslinger]

I don't have a pool can I use normal bleach 1/4 cup?

 

[Gerryd]

Ink,

I don't have a pool either, but they sell chlorine by the 1,2, and 5 gallon size...

Here is a link to a few photos I took of the components for my new build.

The Mag 18 pump is just for illustration, I have a ps250 pan world.

I have not yet done it as I was still reviewing the design, but will work well I think.

Anyhoo, I will add more pics as I do the install....

This is just to give an idea of what will be under the cabinet...........

gerrydirish/Config pre-build - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

I used true unions at all components so they can be swapped, replaced, or removed for any reason.

Unions were also used on the Mazzei connection. This and the ball valves fore and aft allow for easy swapping of my 384 and 584 models. The PSI guage just will confirm for me how much is getting to the main venturi valve with the 533 getting 5-7 and the venturi valves closed, so it just goes straight out the main leg.

I have everything I need now and should do by the end of this weekend.....

Hope this helps to visualize a parallel connection.

Thanks for listening, as even writing this up makes me think about it, and all your responses are a great help!

 

[inkslinger]

WoW nice tank!! I thought the 547 was spouse to be behind the 533 so the water gets filter before entering the 547 BIO unit? Now is the pool chlorine is that powdered forum?