Nu Clear Setup?

[Jim Miller]

It looks like the OC or NC setup will require a canister for mechanical filtration followed by a canister for bio media. I looked at the NC website and didn't find any manuals for their products. It looked like a NC 522 followed by a 547 would be appropriate.

How do you clean the 522 mechanical filtration unit? Is there a way to back flush it? I assume the 547 doesn't get touched often.

Or do you remove the 522 canister via unions to a cleaning location and pull out the filter? Pulling out the filter in situ would appear to be quite sloppy.

I found the Blueline T2 pump after searching around and from reviews it appears silent which is a good start.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Gerryd]

Jim,

yes, most folks place the mech PRIOR to the bio-media...

Keep in mind that as the mech clogs, that reduces flow into the bio canister and beyond. So need to keep that clean....is why I went parallel with mine. I have both these models on my setup (522 and 547).

The mech can be back flushed, but I have an ez way for maintenance. I did this just last night and takes 10-15 minutes:

1). Install the canister with both true unions and ball valves FORE and AFT.
2). Close the ball valves for the 527. This will shut off flow to the unit and allow you to drain just the canister and the water in the pipes before the valves.
3). Attach some flex tube to the drain at the bottom of the NC.
4). Open the drain and remove about 1/2 of the water from the 527 to easily remove the cartridge cleanly. You will need to open the air escape valve to release the pressure or the water will not drain. have a bucket ready to place the dirty cartridge in. I have a low edged tupperware container I use to drain into, as the 527 drains are low to the ground.
5). Open the 527 lid now and remove the cartridge.
6). I swish a net in the remaining water to remove larger debris.
7). Rinse canister with a bit more water and drain remaining water to remove any remaining dirt.
8). Replace cartridge with clean spare

I also clean the o-ring (yes I have spares) and make sure you fit the lid on properly and tighten the lid properly, or it will leak.

So, two big helps were:

1) Having a SPARE cartride. Is expensive but worth it.
2) using spa flex so I can move the canister enough to tilt/drain a bit easier. I can tilt a bit forward and drain all the water.

Ball valves and unions are expensive but worth it, esp when you think long term........The ball valve AFT is also used to set back pressure for the filter. When clean, water flows right though it, so closing the AFT valve slows the flow through the canister. I do the same with the bio unit.

I installed a PSI on the 547 as well (does not come like that) so very easy to see when is clogging or some other issue.

I rinsed my 547 but only as I just moved and it was out.

The unions and ball valves also facilitate if you do have to remove the unit for deeper cleaning, but so far in 2 years, only did it when I moved.

Just need to size the pump as well to push through both canisters and back to the tank. Another reason for parallel vs series.

I think I posted a pic of my plumbing recently and you should be able to see all this on the 527. Let me know if you want a pic. I have plenty

Hope this helps.

 

[Gerryd]

Jim,

I posted some pics in this thread:

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8006-Nylon-or-PVC-Nipple?p=59253#post59253

You can see the NC. The mech is in the front/right and the bio unit is more towards the back/middle.

 

[Jim Miller]

Gerry

Thanks for the info. Ball valves and unions are cheap compared to divorce proceedings. She's tolerated me for 41 years but I don't need to push it. I like the spare filter and o-ring approach. Draining the canister before taking the filter out makes sense.

A few more questions.

If the recommendation is to mech filter before the bio why did you parallel? Seems to defeat the purpose of using the mech. I must be missing something.

Do the fittings on the 522 (mech) permit attachment of a hose on the drain for backflushing or just plain draining. I'm really trying to use hoses everywhere rather than buckets.

Do folks normally put the pump input directly connected with the tank or do they run the mech under negative pressure to spare the pump from debris?

Thanks!

Jim

 

[Jim Miller]

Gerry

Do you have a diagram of that plumbing setup? I don't think I could ever decode it from the pix. ;-)

Thanks

jim

 

[Gerryd]

Jim,

While a series will filter ALL the water, it can also be a bottleneck.

The mech and bio legs will simply filter the water at a different rate. My pump runs the whole system plus additional outlets for extra current and flow. It can also run my mazzei (c02) leg if I want.

My turnover rate is very high and the water is very clear and clean and the bio-bed active and healthy (afaik).

The drains are threaded so you can add a different fitting there to do what you want. I am in an apt, so some bucketry is involved

I use sponges and strainers on all intakes to keep stuff out of the pump. 2 years and no issues so far.

 

[Gerryd]

Gerry

Do you have a diagram of that plumbing setup? I don't think I could ever decode it from the pix. ;-)

Thanks

jim

I will see what I can do, but verbally:

I have 4 x 1" intakes.

Two are drilled bulkheads on either end of the tank, and I have one more hidden in each wier/overflow. The 2 hidden are DIY of flex pipe and pvc fittings and simply go over the wall. I had to start the siphons initially, but they rarely lose it (only one side). I have ball valves (of course) to shut them off to retain siphon during water changes.

These connect to a 2" diameter cone distributor with 5 1" ports. I feed each of the 4 lines to a port (one is capped).

The cone connects via 2" pipe to a 2" T. One side of the T connects to the pump and it's 2" inlet.

The other side of the T has a drain pipe (capped) to empty the pipes for
major maintenance.

This gives me twice the original intake flow and provides the large pump with plenty of flow.

I have another cone distributor on the OUTLET side. I have one port capped for future use.

One port to the mech 522 leg.
One port to the bio 547 leg.
One port to the c02 mazzei leg
One port for bypass flow directly to tank.

The three legs are combined again on the right side and directed to each side outlet.

One side however is split via a 1.5" wye to provide an additional over the wall outlet.

Some of it was added later (unplanned changes) so is a bit sloppy and confusing.

One day soon I will combine the 3 legs via another cone for better distribution. Am using T and elbows now.

I have ball valves on EVERYTHING and unions for all legs and components. I can swap any around easily or shut them off and easily control flow to all components and outlets.

 

[Jim Miller]

That's clear enough. Thanks for the description!

Jim

 

[Jim Miller]

Any reason a NC522 couldn't have the carbon thingy removed and replaced instead with bioballs or similar? With no internal diagram it's hard to figure out what the flow arrangement is like. Don't need the carbon but the 100u filter is probably plenty and I could save a canister and the associated plumbing.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Gerryd]

Jim,

No reason..

I did this myself and run my 522 with NO insert as I have the 547.

I know others have used ceramic, rings, etc to good effect.

 

[Jim Miller]

Is the insert what holds the carbon or alternatives? I assume you still have the 100u pleated filter on the 522?

Thanks

Jim

 

[Gerryd]

Yep. You can fill the insert or leave it out as I did.

Yes, I still use the same micron cartridge that it comes with. I just have spares.....

They are great filters BTW, just more IMO for larger applications. Or heavy fish load..

I wanted to be able to go in any direction, so I oversized. Has worked well so far

 

[Jim Miller]

After weighing a bunch of choices I've decided to go with a Nu-Clear 522 from which I'll remove the carbon and replace it with Efisubstrat from Eheim. I'm going to drive it with a Blueline T2 pump and plumb it all up with 1" flexpvc. I've decided to forego the UV sterilizer and if I need one I'll hang it on the tank.

For CO2 injection I'm going with either a Mazzei or a homebrew equivalent between the pump and canister. Haven't decided on a heater. The pump will generate a temperature rise itself and I suspect that the usual choice of an ETH300 will be way overkill as a result. Something more like a ETH100 on a bypass line after the filter is more likely. Suggestions welcome of course.

Thanks to all on this thread and the Loc-Line thread for getting me on a better path.

Thanks to all and have a safe and happy holiday season!

Jim (Santa delivered my package from Catalina today!! oooh, Santa Catalina!)

 

[Jim Miller]

Gerry

I see from the Nu-Clear website that the 522 holds 1.5lbs of activated carbon. Could you estimate the volume of the insert that holds this? I'd like to order some biomedia.

I ordered the filter and pump last night. Pump is hard to find as Blueline T2 but readily visible as Velocity T2 which is the brand name.

Thanks

Jim

 

[Gerryd]

Jim,

Unsure what you are asking?

The insert fits INSIDE the cartridge. I can take a pic later of the cartridge but think I have lost the insert.

That should give you some idea.....

 

[Jim Miller]

Hi Gerry

Just trying to determine the volume available in whatever container is normally used to hold the carbon.

Just approximately e.g. gallon jug size or other.
Thanks

Jim

 

[Gerryd]

Hi Jim,

I know you have several threads going. Can you combine your plans SO FAR into one? I know you have made some purchases and made some decisions already.

I would like to know if you plan on plumbing your mazzei in series or parallel and a host of other questions. I know you have drilled bulkheads. How will these connect to the pump? Do you have a design or schematic yet?

Not joking here. I drew mine up in Visio 50 times adding ball valves, unions, etc. Helped too when ordering all the parts. I saved quite a bit buying flex and such online with unions and ball valves. HD or box stores ares more expensive for these I found. When buying 10 unions, $2-3 each adds up quickly. I bought 20' of flex and used it all eventually. You will make mistakes or want to change things

Etc, etc, etc.

Don't forget to use pvc primer. You need to HOLD flex pvc and the pvc connection together FIRMLY for 10-15 seconds to ensure the flex does not pop out or twist....

Flex pvc is great and easy to work with. Very forgiving thank goodness, at least in my case

 

[Jim Miller]

Hi Gerry

Sorry for any confusion caused. My plans just hit a wall since I just got a call from my pump supplier telling me that Liang who was the actual pump supplier sold variously as Blueline and Velocity has discontinued the line.

So my design is on hold for a bit until I figure out a suitable alternative.

I don't have a schematic yet. First I'm selecting the big pieces then I'll figure out the smaller bits.

I've done quite a bit of PVC work and never had a failed joint. Never used flexpvc yet so that will be new.

Thanks!

Jim