New tank, 200 gallon, 2nd scape scape

Gilles

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So i have been a bit quiet over here, due to the fact that i was very busy at work and i have worked on my secret project. I've managed to finish my new tank a little over 7 months ago.

Specs are:
- 180x70x70 plywood tank with glass front
- No stabilizers (e.g. i have full movement over the tank)
- Pump connections all through the bottom of the tank
- 2x Eheim 2078 filtration
- AquaMedic 1000 for CO2
- Profilux 3 controlled
- Profilux 3 dosing computer
- 5x 80w maxium light, dimmable by the Profilux 3 (DALI protocol)
- LEDs for the Profilux 3 (thunderstorms)
- Auto top off
- Auto water change with RO water (5% every night)

Here are the pics of the build.



Design:
The blue parts on the canopy are ventilation shafts. As you can see inside the canopy i have placed my ballasts and made such a channeling that the outside/room air flows from the center back over the ballasts inside my hood (warm air) and at the sides the moist air is going out.

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Construction:
I was constructing this tank for over 2 years. It was a hobby project so a lot of time and money went into it. It all starts with supplies :)

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Reinforcements:
First, i painted the plywood with an epoxy resin to make it water proof. Next i wanted absolutely NO stabilizers in the tank. Therefore i had to reinforce the front since the top bar has to little 'wood' to support the front window. So i ordered a steel beam and got crazy with the drill.

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Background, attempt 1:
Next up was the background. First i applied several layers of fiber glass matt to enforce the casing. In total there are about 3 layers of fiberglass. I wanted to incorporate wood into my background, although i am aware of the risks (rotting and the fact that it becomes a part of the layout)

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Background, attempt 2:
I was not happy with the above background. The friend which helped me had some good insights, but i wanted to have a planted tank. To much background equals less space for plants. So i decided to redo it. This is the result. If you look closely, you can see the return pipes (in both sides at the front of the glass) and my emergency overflow, the green cascet). Pump intakes are behind in the tank.

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Background, finalizing:
Next up is to finish the background. First step involves adding concrete to the background. Why concrete? Since this makes it possible to smooth out holes and make a more rock-like structure. After the (Portland) cement i started adding "Elastopur" basically this is rubber like, 2-component glue-ish stuff which hardens in about 45 minutes, so you have to work fast. The color is yellow-ish but you can add pigment to make it more your own taste. I added brown and immediately after putting on the elastopur i added sand to make it even more naturally. It then looks like this....

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Next up, canopy:
So i've used some lamp holders from ebay and arraged my lights according to the design which is at the top of this post. Not a lot of pictures, but here goes.

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Gilles

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Moving the tank:
After one month of test running in the garage where i built the tank (my wife is not that happy with 750 liters of water in the living room), i decided to move the tank indoors. I already had the holes for AWC so that helped a lot. In the pictures you also see my trafo, giving 12v. It is behind my tank so that means i can't access it anymore but as long as it works i am happy. It powers my Profilux and connected appliances so i don't have to use that much power adapters. The first picture shows the reinforcements i made at the back of the tank to make sure it doesn't bend.

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Plumbing the AWC:
Not much plumbing to do, i had everything pretty much figured out and since i had to fill the tank with water anyway, most of the parts where already in place. However, i still had to do my AWC system which is illustrated in the next pictures.

The 'beast' consists of the following parts:
- The left pipe is the pipe which is directly connected to the tank. This means i can use the valve to quickly drain my tank or to get some water to water my plants :)
- The second pipe from the left is attached to a water solenoid. Currently i am using a different solenoid since the one in the picture required back pressure before it opened. Picture is to follow.
- Third pipe from the left (the long straight one) is directly connected to my emergency overflow and goes to my sewer. Basically the drain pipe.
- Forth pipe from the left (e.g. the right one) is connected to the blue waste water line of my R/O unit.

The last picture shows the different solenoids i have used. The left one is now in place and works like a charm, draining 5% (40 liters) in about 2 minutes. I could have increased this, but that meant i had to use a bigger pipe (20mm) instead of 16mm which is now in place.

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Finalizing the build:

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Adding the LEDs to the canopy:

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Next post will be about the stainless steel tubes which i have used to connect the dosing unit, and the first pics of the second scape (sorry, no pics of the first one)
 
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dutchy

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Hi Gilles,

Nice project and great result. I'm always a bit afraid that those plywood tanks will leak... ;) Regarding the canopy ventilation: keep in mind that the T5's need around 35 degrees C operating temperature for optimal efficiency.

Scaping the same like the your previous tank?
 
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Gilles

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No not at all. Previously i was stocking the plants really really thight (dutch style). The substrate on the picture is Earthworm castings topped with Flourite Black Sand. I've switched this weekend to ADA New Amazonia, so my plant scape is yet to develop.
 

Tom Barr

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Once you get use to ADA AS, you will really like it a lot.
Really nice build and a lot of work and planning went into it.

Well done indeed.
 

Gilles

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Thanx tom, monday i've increased my CO2. I went from PH 6.8 to PH 6.2 (no livestock yet in the tank) to get a nice green 30ppm color. Before it was blue (to low co2). uMol not yet measured.
I've measured today 0.3ppm NO2. Will that kill cherry shrimps and fish? I really need to get my fish back into the tank.
 

Tom Barr

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Gilles;76303 said:
Thanx tom, monday i've increased my CO2. I went from PH 6.8 to PH 6.2 (no livestock yet in the tank) to get a nice green 30ppm color. Before it was blue (to low co2). uMol not yet measured.
I've measured today 0.3ppm NO2. Will that kill cherry shrimps and fish? I really need to get my fish back into the tank.

If you do a 50-70% water change, then add the shrimp, they should be fine.
Activated carbon, zeolite etc......also helps.

I'd add more CO2 than that.
Those drop checkers have never optimized CO2 in any tank I've had.
pH is likely a better measure.

Since there is no live stock, you might as well explore the growth of plants with the CO2, knock the pH to 5.8.
Test and few cherry shrimp or amano's, then go from there. Fish should be added 1-2 hour after the lights are off.

Then watch them and the feeding behavior a lot.
1 full unit should be okay, tweaking the CO2 from there should be done carefully and slowly.
Take a look at how much ADA is adding to their tank's in those videos.

It is NOT 15ppm !!! I can promise folks that!
 

Gilles

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Yesterday i added JBL tropol, but was not happy with the result, so i did a 40% WC, added 4 shrimps in the evening. Most of them i can't even see, but i've seen 2 of them this morning very much alive. Today (tonight) i am going to add the remaining shrimps and in the temp fish containers where the fish are i am going to do a 50% WC with 100% of the new water being my tank water. Then, tomorrow i will do this again and a few hours later i will put the fish in the new tank.

Still thinking about getting either Staurogyne Portho Velo or the normal one. Can't seem to find the Portho Velo in the Netherlands....

p.s. i'm now a lifetime member :) jeej!
 

Tom Barr

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I think the S repens is better over time. porto velho is a bit dslow to start but gets taller, not as compact turf like etc.

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I think you have seen plenty of S repens.
Lots of downoi might be another option.
 

Gilles

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I'm dosing 4 things;
- NO3
- PO4
- CSM+B mixed with Mg and K2SO4 (pmdd premix)
- Ferrous Gluconate

Using the 4-way Profilux dosing unit.

P.s. tomorrow i am going to plant the following plants:
- Cryptocoryne wendtii ’Mi Oya’
- Pogostemon erectus
- Pogostemon helferi
- Staurogyne repens

Still in search for a good (green) background plant...
 
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Tom Barr

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Myrio matogrossense is a nice easy to keep species. So is green macrandra, Rotala "green", S belem, various grass like plants(C balansae, C helferi, maybe even narrow leaf type swords etc.
 

Gilles

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Thank you for that list. Today i've released cherry shrimp and did not buy those plants after all. They where to expensive at the lfs for the ammount of plants you'd got.

The current problem i have is that Amazonia AS gives off a lot of cloudiness in the tank. Meaning that all my fissidens fontanus got smudgy and brown. I've removed almost all of it, since it will grow back after all. I usually call it fissidens spontaneous :)

Also some other plants are covered with "dirt". I tend to leave the tank alone for about a week or so, giving the plants some time to acclimatize. Then next weekend i am planning on uprooting the entire tank, cleaning the plants by submerging them into a bucket e.g. Rinsing. Next vacuuming the bottom to get all dirt out (is that allowed on AS?) and replanting the plants..

Good or bad idea? Tips?
 

Gilles

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Couldn't wait and decided to vacuum today. The reason for that being that leaving the plants alone for a week would only prolong their suffering and unstability of the tank. Later i found out your post;
"You can deep vac ADA AS, but you need to throttle the siphon vac by squeezing the hose to keep the larger grains there and remove the fine dust. It is much harder/takes loinger to clean this way than hard sands/EC, flourite etc. But it can be done fairly straight forward, just takes longer." ... Been there, done that :)

I decided, next to removing all fissidens, to remove most of the small leaved javafern, since covering the wood totally removes the depth the wood creates. This also helped me remove the most of the Utricularia Gibba that i have been battling.

Now it's time to replant the plants, but i don't have much. I only have some blyxa japonica, tonina fluviatilis, ludwigia pantanal, hygrophila balsamica and a few stems of Ludwigia arcuata and pogostemon helferi... Got to order some extra plants.
 
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Gilles

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I think that can be arranged, however first i have to see that my own Pantanal's grow. The new growth is nice and red but the rest of the plant suffered a lot from the under-light, under-co2 and clogged tank.
 

Gilles

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Don't have to :) Maybe i'll need something from you in the future :p

I've manged to score some Hydrothrix gardneri from a German friend, so that will be a nice green addition.
Tomorrow i am going for about 50 to 75 Sakura shrimp if they are nice red, for about 2.6 USD each.

So about the R/O debate... I still have a pot of Dennerle Remineral+ (about 160 grams, including the pot) so i am thinking of doing a massive water change tomorrow (before i add my shrimp).
Reason for that being that i only have the ADA Amazonia "new" in the tank for only a week now, so it might be giving off nitrites and/or ammonia.

I think i'll go for waterchange with a KH of 3. That gives me the following calculation:
Liters: 200
KH: 3
Requires 46.15 grams of remineral+ (10 grams per 100 liter gives 1.3 KH and 2 GH)
This gives me a GH of 4.62

Thursday i am going to measure my PAR, NO3, PO4, KH, GH, and CO2 levels for you, after i recalibrate all my sensors :)
 

jerrybforl

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Gilles this is a nice build/project. I wish I had the time and space for something like that! I wish I had the electronical skill you do lol...:rolleyes:
 

Gilles

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Thank you Jerry, it is more 'just doing it' and rethink everything really good before you actually start using it.