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New Start (somewhat) on my 16gal AIO

Discussion in 'Journals' started by rajkm, Sep 1, 2016.

  1. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    Quite a few things have led me to reset my tank with new substrate.


    So decided I start a journal here so I can get better advice on my experiments and maybe someone will also learn from my mistakes.


    Let me start with my old set-up and its problems


    Tank: 16gal (11.5 gal water) Innovative Marine AIO which used to be a saltwater tank but last year converted it to a freshwater tank. The AIO has sump in the back, double intake and outlet.


    Substrate (before change): Eco-Complete, ADA Colorado Sand added/mixed in front. Added Osmocote root tabs 4-5 months ago.


    Water change: 50-75%, 1x-2x per week. Mostly RO Water mineralized with GLA GH Booster and Alkaline Buffer. Sometimes use tap if more than 50% change or just tap. Tap in my area is around 1 GH, 1 KH.


    Plants (before change)


    Ludwigia sp. 'Super Red'


    Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'


    Ludwigia Senegalensis


    Ludwigia Arcuata


    Ludwigia Dark Red (just 1 stem. Not sure if the name is correct, Got it from Wet Spot and that’s what they sold it under)


    Ludwigia x lacustris (just 1 stem)


    ludwigia repens x arcuate (just 1 stem)


    Rotala mini butterfly (I believe it called Type V)


    Rotala mini butterfly Type IV


    Rotala Sunset (last 3 as rest melted away in past 2 months)


    Rotala ramosior ‘Florida’


    Rotala Colorata


    Rotala Wallichii (1 struggling stem)


    Rotala Nanjenshan (1 struggling stem)


    Rotola Enie (3 struggling stem)


    Cuphea Anagalloidea (1 struggling stem)


    Limnophila Aaromatica


    Limnophila Aromatica Mini


    Tonina Fluviatilis Lotus Blossom


    Syngonanthus Belem


    Syngonanthus Lago Grande


    Persicaria sp. Sao Paulo


    Blyxa Japonica


    Eriocaulon Vietnam


    Eriocaulon Malayatoor


    Pogostemon Stellatus Narrow Leaf


    Pogostemon Erectus


    Staurogyne repens


    Hygrophila Araguaia


    Fissidens Nobilis


    Riccardia Chamedryfolia (Coral moss)


    Taxiphyllum ‘Flame’ (Flame moss)


    Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping' (Weeping moss)


    Buce Brownie Blue


    Buce unknown type


    Now the problems


    Ever since I set-up the tank I always was fighting GSA. Had posted a few question here and based on that increased my water changes to 2x per week and also increased my phosphate to nearly 6-10 ppm. No difference on GSA. I was also made aware of possible trace toxicity, tried it for a month, but nothing changed and some plants struggled, so stopped that experiment.


    The plants in the meanwhile were all healthy and growing at insane speed. Not all plants though. Rotala’s (except Colorata and Florida) and Cuphea were struggling. Rotola Sunset which was growing great melted away over the months, mostly may be due to bad trimming practice.


    3 months ago I was testing my phosphate and decided to stir my test longer to see if that will give me better result since it always showed me 3 ppm. The result was separation of the reagents from sample. Contacted Seachem and they sent me a new one. Same result with the new one. I did more tests with DI, RO and Tap water and found that that behavior was only specific to my tank water. Went and got API Phosphate test since it reads to 10 ppm and the result was that my tank was 10 or more ppm of phosphate. I repeated the test on Seachem with a self-made sample with 10+ppm of phosphate and the theory checked out.


    Started trying to dig into the root cause of such high phosphate. Did multiple 75% water changes. Phosphate levels came down to 2 ppm but overnight was back up to 7ppm and then 10ppm by mid-day.


    Along with that, I had moved to soft water at 2-3 KH (used to keep it at 4-5). This meant I had my PH drop to 5.4 with CO2.


    When I made this change I got some GDA sort of algae but only on leafs and it had green fuzzy look. Excel overdose did not work and spot treatment of H2O2 only helped little. The only thing I found consistent was that after water change the algae will back off and then comeback as my phosphate climbed.


    Added Phosguard and that helped bring phosphate down and the algae subsided, however started seeing phosphate deficiencies. Removed Phosguard and the phosphate levels climbed and the algae was back. Started using phosphate pads and that helped but they kept exhausting quickly.


    Finally I think I figured it might be the Osmocote since it has a good percentage of phosphates. Googled around and found that it could be one of the reasons.


    Did deep vacuuming of half of the tank but only could pull out 5-8 osmocote balls. The phosphate problem was still prevalent.


    So I decided that I need to rule Osmocote out of my algae equation and hence decided to change the substrate, and that’s that.


    Posting a picture of my tank from last week before the change.


    [​IMG]
     
  2. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    New Start


    I have been wanting to switch to Amazonia, but I didnt want to use this tank for it. Was waiting to move and get a bigger tank, and switch this one back to saltwater since my daughter misses Nemo.


    But since Aquasoil comes with the ammonia issue which prevents me from putting fish in the tank, I decided to play it safe.


    Also the next option was Flourite sand, because standard fluorite has problem with carpeting plants, but I did not have the time, nor patience for rinsing it.


    I found that the new Eco-Complete black has a wider range of grain size (0.25-7.0mm) which meant I did not need to put sand for carpeting plants. Plus I had recently acquired some tank items which included 3/4 of Eco-Complete black and Eco-Complete comes with its own resident bacteria which means I can set-up the tank same day with my established filter and do not have to worry about a big cycle. My bio filtration (500ml of Seachem Matrix plus sponge) is big enough to sustain a mini-cycle. So overall it was an easy choice.


    Once I started siphoning, I was actually glad I decided to do the change. The gunk that it was pulling out with the substrate was nasty. The bucket water was all black suspended gunk. I think the lack of substrate vacuuming that is common in planted tanks is what I was pulling out, and this tank is only 1 year old.


    Anyways, 12 hours later, I had my new tank up and running. Had to make decisions of letting go some plants but overall I am happier that I am probably back in the driving seat.


    Obviously I did not do any scape changes. Its still a wild mess that it was, just more elbow room for plants (for now). Also got rid of some ledges to clean up the look.


    Plants (after change in bold)


    Ludwigia sp. 'Super Red'


    Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'


    Ludwigia Senegalensis


    Ludwigia Arcuata (reduced to only 2 stems)


    Ludwigia Dark Red (just 1 stem. Not sure if the name is correct, Got it from Wet Spot and thats what they sold it under)


    Ludwigia x lacustris (just 1 stem)


    ludwigia repens x arcuate (just 1 stem)


    Rotala mini butterfly (I believe it called Type V)


    Rotala mini butterfly Type IV


    Rotala Sunset (removed)


    Rotala ramosior Florida


    Rotala Colorata


    Rotala Wallichii (1 struggling stem)


    Rotala Nanjenshan (1 struggling stem)


    Rotola Enie (removed)


    Cuphea Anagalloidea (1 struggling stem)


    Limnophila Aaromatica (Just 1 stem)


    Limnophila Aromatica Mini


    Tonina Fluviatilis Lotus Blossom


    Syngonanthus Belem


    Syngonanthus Lago Grande


    Persicaria sp. Sao Paulo


    Blyxa Japonica


    Eriocaulon Vietnam


    Eriocaulon Malayatoor


    Pogostemon Stellatus Narrow Leaf


    Pogostemon Erectus


    Staurogyne repens (removed)


    Hygrophila Araguaia (removed)


    Fissidens Nobilis


    Riccardia Chamedryfolia (Coral moss)


    Taxiphyllum Flame (Flame moss)


    Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping' (Weeping moss)


    Buce Brownie Blue


    Buce unknown type


    Anubias Nana Pinto (added)


    [​IMG]
     
    #2 rajkm, Sep 1, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 1, 2016
  3. Pikez

    Pikez Rotala Killer!
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    Watching from front row seats.


    Eco-complete has the advantage (and make use of this advantage!) of allowing you to deep vacuum the gravel every 3-4 months or so. Yank out all plants in a quarter of the tank and deep vacuum to get rid of any organics. You'll be done cleaning the whole tank in a month - fairly inoffensive and low labor. I do this even with Aquasoil, but it's not a DEEP vacuum. May be half inch to an inch into the substrate. And instead of a quarter of the tank, I vacuum every time to move plants around and that's very often.


    Pass on the Osmocote. Sure it adds ferts near the roots, but it adds an X factor that you're better off without. Osmocote + Phosguard = driving yourself nuts.


    Struggling Rotala and Cuphea? HUH! That's a new one.
     
  4. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    Yes this time I am planning on doing more frequent vacuuming.


    Lesson learned from Osmocote is not that it causes issues like high phosphate but that it's a unknown that you cannot control easily. It was spread all across the substrate and pulling them out was not possible. And every time you uproot plant for topping some of those will come out and then leach directly into water until you find it and take it out. It did help with heavy rooting plants but I am sure I can manage without it.

    Well Vin.. You started me in that direction on one of my first posts. I tried each of those plants and slowly but surely each one died.


    http://www.barrreport.com/forum/barr-report/aquatic-plant-fertilization/233214-need-a-little-help-dialing-in


    ​​​​​​​I am am following your thread closely regarding the same plants and hoping to learn from it.
     
  5. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    One week update


    GSA, GDA, BBA.. that sums it all.


    Had cleaned the entire tank when I changed the substrate last week and all walls were covered in algae, including some of my fast growing plants like Pantanal.


    Also Eco-Complete Black does increase KH and GH to some extend. I dose 2 KH worth of Alkaline Buffer but my tank water was close to 3.5-4 KH. What it means is I lost couple of shrimps and almost lost my one and only Black Otto (very hard to find, if anyone has any I will buy some). Inceased my PH target from 5.4 to 5.55, have not seen any stressed fish and plants seem ok.


    Did 50% water change, and only cleaned the exposed glass and sprayed it with H2O2. Didn't want to scrape the glass with water and wanted the GDA to run its cycle.


    Used pure RO without adding any Buffer or GH booster. This shocked one of my Amano shrimps which was on verge of molting. Luckily found him lying in a corner but breathing. Moved him to my shrimp tank and he is slowly recovering.


    While the algae was blooming so were the plants. My fast growers like Pantana, Ludwigia Mini Red and Pogo Stellatus had doubled in length and even the Toninas added 1-2 inches.


    The only plants that really seem to be struggling are my Buces and Syn Lago Grande.


    Lago Grande is sprouting new leafs so I hope its just acclimation to new substrate. The Syn Belem however is doing well.


    The Buce is melting, I took off the ledge from last setup to tie it to a piece of wood and put it in front of the tank. I think it does not like the extra light (close to 60 PAR at substrate). If it continues to do bad I will move it.


    One plant that always tells me I have low GH is the Persicaria Sao Paulo. The top shoots curled dramatically and I always see that when my GH is low, which could be correct since I did 50% water change without adding any booster. I added back some GH today, lets see how it does.


    BTW, the reason I had changed the substrate.. high phosphate.. and suspecting Osmocote.... well that was just part of the mystery. It is not in the 10+ ppm range but it is close to 6-7 ppm.


    Now I am starting to think it might be the flake food. It has 1% phosphate content. So I switched to pellets and feeding sparingly. Lets see how it goes.


    [​IMG]
     
  6. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    Keep up the water changes if things are going bad or have been, keep up on things at least 2-3 weeks till the plants are really doing well and the tank is clean and algae free.


    2-3x a week water changes and pick and clean any debris. Keep taller plants trimmed down more.


    Feed fish often.


    Add algae eaters (more etc).
     
  7. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    6 week update


    Been very busy last few weeks so have not posted updates.


    The tank is doing well. The GDA almost cleared overnight after my last post. I observed that the GDA was kinda on the retreat but my Oto's cleaned up everything. They didn't touch it earlier. So maybe towards end of its cycle it weakens or something which makes it attractive to Oto's.


    But the proverbial truth that when your tank is doing well algae almost clears overnight still stands true.


    While that did happen, I left town for a week and came back to GDA and iron deficiency. I have cleaned the tank and just like last time the remaining cleared over night again.


    Riccia and L. Aromatica was moved out to my other tank. Moved things around a bit too.


    struggling plants remain to be Rotala Butterfly and Type IV


    I did add some L. Sphaerocarpa that I got from Tom but they did not last. Now I have one more thing to look forward to growing. Won't get back to that plant until I complete some more of my remaining travel for the year.


    So the list of plants that I failed on and need to aquire again are


    L. Sphaerocarpa


    Blood Vomit


    Cuphae Angalloidea


    Rotala Sunset


    At the risk of jinxing it, the last stem of Wallichii is doing well. It sprouted healthy branches so now I have 4 stems. Lets see how long I can keep going without stunning it.


    Below is the updated plant list.


    Ludwigia sp. 'Super Red'


    Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'


    Ludwigia Senegalensis


    Ludwigia Arcuata (reduced to only 2 stems)


    Ludwigia Dark Red (just 1 stem. Not sure if the name is correct, Got it from Wet Spot and that’s what they sold it under)


    Ludwigia x lacustris (just 1 stem)


    ludwigia repens x arcuate (just 1 stem)


    Rotala mini butterfly (I believe it called Type V)


    Rotala mini butterfly Type IV


    Rotala Sunset (removed)


    Rotala ramosior ‘Florida’


    Rotala Colorata


    Rotala Wallichii


    Rotala Nanjenshan (1 struggling stem)


    Cuphea Anagalloidea (removed)


    Limnophila Aaromatica (removed)


    Limnophila Aromatica Mini


    Tonina Fluviatilis Lotus Blossom


    Syngonanthus Belem


    Syngonanthus Lago Grande


    Persicaria sp. Sao Paulo


    Blyxa Japonica


    Eriocaulon Vietnam


    Eriocaulon Malayatoor


    Pogostemon Stellatus Narrow Leaf


    Pogostemon Erectus


    Fissidens Nobilis


    Riccardia Chamedryfolia (moved to other tank for now)


    Taxiphyllum ‘Flame’ (Flame moss)


    Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping' (Weeping moss)


    Buce Brownie Blue


    Buce unknown type


    Anubias Nana Pinto


    Rotala Macandra (1 stem added from other tank)


    Eichhornia diversifolia (1 stem added)


    Ludwigia White (2 stems added)


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/7C60869F-CC2B-4280-9F31-3CAFD2C8B933_zpsvlbu9hjc.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/DC050E90-564A-40D3-B64A-4A93B8164321_zpsb1dniu9s.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/5933BE2C-0213-48B1-B4B4-16BE0BEE0958_zpsczygugbu.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/C6F207C1-847B-461A-A649-A96EB00E25EB_zpszjqyp5kf.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/C17B37C8-2387-4D70-B6E2-13439D611669_zpsqzcq3bsv.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/670C48AD-BC8A-42CA-AE2A-C863ACB43F11_zpsehdqmvbp.jpg[/img]


    [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"custom","src":"http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums/r676/mahakul/Nuvo16/7B9537E7-E261-4FC4-AD08-000E0113C326_zpsjiqyspv5.jpg[/img]
     
    #7 rajkm, Oct 7, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 7, 2016
  8. SaraPark

    SaraPark Junior Poster

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    I need to acquire my own acquired for my new house. These are good examples.
     
  9. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    9 Week update


    The plants are growing at break neck speed but so is GDA. By Friday every week I have a minor onset of GDA which suggests that the increasing plant mass causes limitations which in turn causes GDA and the low PH (5.6) during CO2 also accelerates this and another fungi.


    The below pic shows the growth I had by Saturday. I trim this tank every Sunday and the fast growers are trimmed down to 4-5" and most of them double or more each week.


    [​IMG]


    So this week I rearranged a bit and moved some of my tall stem plants to the back.


    I am also going to use the Ludwigia mini red as a mid-ground so it will be hacked every week or 2 to keep it short and compact.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Some of these plants will go away since I know I can grow them well. The plants on the chopping block are Tonina Lotus Blossom, Pogo Erectus, Persicaria Sao Paulo, Pantanal, L. Aromatica Mini and Ludwigia Mini Red. Will make the choice once I get the new plants mail in and see their growth pattern. So for some time I will reduce the stems to half or less and if the new plants fit well, they go else I will propagate the old plant using remaining stems. It’s a tough choice because I like each of these plants but I cannot keep spending 3 hours per weekend managing it.


    The good news (at risk of jinxing it) is that Rotala Nanjenshan is now up to 4 stems from 1 dying stem.


    Rotala Wallichi is also on same path however I added more new stems which are not doing well. The old stems which I had multiplied to 5 stems are still fine. I wonder if the transition time from emergend to submerged is large for this plant. If the new stems keep doing bad, I will toss them out and wait for the good stems to multiply.


    However I think my experiment is going well with the species.


    I also added Rotala Blood Red which is so far doing well.


    I am going to add Cuphea once I get it to see how it does.


    Also in mail is Erio Red, Aciotios, Lanjak Etmau, Hygro Variegated and R. Mac Variegated. Not sure if all are going to make it in the tank.


    The other addition to the tank is a tissue cultured Nesaea Pedicellata. Its so far doing well. Let's see if its true Pedicellata or golden variety. Also growing it to a point where I can identify it without stunning will be a challenge.


    I also changed my made do dual stage regulator (two single stage regulators) to a Swagelok 2 stage regulator with a Hoke Micro Mite needle valve which I have to say is awesome so I can make quarter turn increments without worrying of gassing the fish. I also stopped using the PH Controller for regulating the CO2 and instead use it as reference for PH Drop calculations. It makes me nervous and I wonder if some of my GDA issues is due to that because with PH controller it will keep injecting CO2 until it reached target so with increased biomass and demand, it will keep injecting. Lets see, I might move back on the controller if I can't fix the algae issue.


    The algae that I believe is GDA In this case is strange because it starts on the leafs and unlike GSA it forms carpets So it's either GDA or BGA. Need to figure it out. 2x water changes per week is failing to stop the algae and as I said the fast growing stems are trimmed every week.


    Will keep at it…. sigh!!


    If anyone is reading this journal I would appreciate plant suggestions that grow slow but keep good color since my daughter hates all the green plants in the tank… that’s why I have too much red which does not translate to a scape.


    Below is the updated plant list.


    Ludwigia sp. 'Super Red'


    Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'


    Ludwigia Senegalensis


    Ludwigia Arcuata


    Ludwigia Dark Red (just 1 stem. Not sure if the name is correct, Got it from Wet Spot and that’s what they sold it under)


    Ludwigia x lacustris


    Ludwigia repens x arcuate


    Rotala mini butterfly (I believe it called Type V) (removed)


    Rotala mini butterfly Type IV


    Rotala ramosior ‘Florida’


    Rotala Colorata


    Rotala Wallichii


    Rotala Nanjenshan


    Limnophila Aromatica Mini


    Tonina Fluviatilis Lotus Blossom


    Syngonanthus Belem


    Syngonanthus Lago Grande


    Persicaria sp. Sao Paulo


    Blyxa Japonica (removed)


    Eriocaulon Vietnam


    Eriocaulon Malayatoor


    Pogostemon Stellatus Narrow Leaf (removed)


    Pogostemon Erectus


    Fissidens Nobilis


    Taxiphyllum ‘Flame’ (Flame moss) (removed)


    Vesicularia ferriei 'Weeping' (Weeping moss) (removed)


    Buce Brownie Blue


    Buce unknown type


    Anubias Nana Pinto


    Rotala Macandra


    Eichhornia diversifolia


    Ludwigia White


    Blyxa Alternifolia (added)


    Rotala Blood Red (added)


    Nesaea Pedicellata - AFA Tissue Culture (added)
     
  10. Dennis Singh

    Dennis Singh SynKing!

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    Liking your plant choices and some relatively good growth as well.
     
  11. newportjon

    newportjon Junior Poster

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    I really like the top view picture. Everything in your tank looks super healthy.


    Awesome tank!
     
  12. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    Re-posting since the last one got deleted due to system issue, as well as added some more notes.


    Been a long time because it was a busy run to end of the year work wise and the tank went thru a lot of changes.


    Reduced my list of plants by moving most of them to a 20gal grow out tank and going to further remove some more as I get over my collectoritis and move to a lower maintenance tank. I am banking on my grow-out tank to continue my greediness of trying new species.


    Still having a lot of lingering GDA issues which I can't seem to resolve.


    2x 60% or more water changes. Filter cleaned every 2-3 weeks, even tried 1-2 punch but it always comes back after 2 weeks.


    I think part of it was due to Aquavitro GH supplement I was using which was off on the Ca:Mg ratio. Since I have switched back things have improved but GDA is not completely gone.


    The other part is I have kept few plants that grow well and fast and rest are ones I am struggling with. So overall the tank is about 40/30/30 fast/slow/struggling mix which I think is also part of the reason for the GDA. And the GDA makes the struggling plants even struggle more.


    The tank saw its fair share of changes. I have moved plants that grew too easily, or ones I was going to lose, to the grow-out tank.


    The plants that I was afraid to lose were R Wallachii and L. White. L. White was slow and covered with GSA.


    Rotala Wallachii was its own story.


    Rotala Florida, I find that if I have to replant, It only does well if I have some roots on it, else it fails. It also survives only in uncrowded area. Once its rooted it can take crowding.


    I keep thinking I will throw out Tonina but I love that plant because there is nothing I find that's as bright to take center stage.


    Pantanal, I am learning that its all about dosing and light in my tank.


    Low light, slows growth a bit, colors up better, thinner stems.


    High light, looks a little washed out.


    High light, low dose, smaller spread of leafs and thin stems.


    High light, all you can eat dose, thick stems, longer leafs, still looks washed out, grows a inch or more per day.


    I ditched much of my Erio Vietnam, what a waste since I don't sell my plants (yet).


    I also have too much Erio Malaytoor. It has interesting growth pattern and will most likely stay for now. I hate its long leafs though.


    Blood Vomit this time is still holding on. See couple of new blades but it gets covered with algae. Not sure if it will make it. Going to buy some more once Tom has it and will put it in my grow put tank.


    I have also been trying to get to the bottom of my Wallachii and Nanjeshan issues. Below are some of the pictures.


    About 2 weeks after started with the substrate change


    You can see both Wallachii and Nanjeshan.


    [​IMG]


    About 5 weeks


    [​IMG]


    This was last week. I had already moved the Wallachii so I don’t have the pics but you can see Nanjeshan here and you can see the lower leafs covered in algae. You can also see Chuhea at the bottom of the pic which is doing well.


    604116DA-59CF-4AB7-AECE-3CA1F80332E1_zps6tcf8eph.jpg


    Full tank shot taken yesterday


    [​IMG]


    Below is the updated plant list.


    Ludwigia sp. Red


    Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Pantanal'


    Ludwigia Senegalensis


    Ludwigia Arcuata


    Ludwigia Dark Red (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Ludwigia x lacustris (removed - moved to grow-out tank)



    Ludwigia repens x arcuate (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Rotala mini butterfly Type IV (removed - moved to grow-out tank)



    Rotala ramosior ‘Florida’


    Rotala Colorata (removed - was most likely not Colorata)


    Rotala Wallichii (removed - moved to grow-out tank)



    Rotala Nanjenshan


    Limnophila Aromatica Mini (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Tonina Fluviatilis Lotus Blossom


    Syngonanthus Belem (removed)


    Syngonanthus Lago Grande


    Persicaria sp. Sao Paulo (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Eriocaulon Vietnam


    Eriocaulon Malayatoor


    Pogostemon Erectus


    Fissidens Nobilis


    Buce Brownie Blue (removed - moved to shrimp tank)


    Buce unknown type (removed - moved to shrimp tank)



    Anubias Nana Pinto


    Rotala Macandra


    Eichhornia diversifolia


    Ludwigia White (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Blyxa Alternifolia


    Rotala Blood Red (removed - moved to grow-out tank)


    Nesaea Pedicellata - AFA Tissue Culture (removed - got ones from Tom which had better color)


    Eriocaulon sp. 'Quinquangular'(added)


    Rotala Red Cross (added)


    Nesaea Pedicellata (added to replace the tissue culture)


    Cuphea Anagalloidea (added)


    Lanjak Etmau Java Fern (added)


    Murdannia Red (added)


    Trithuria Sp. aka "Blood Vomit" (added)


    Pogostemon stellatus 'Narrow Leaf' (moved back into the tank)


    Crypt Tonkinensis (added)


    Plants that made a short stop in between but I changed my mind or melted away


    Limnophila Sulawesi (moved to grow-out tank)


    Rotala Varigated Macandra (did not convert over)


    hygro variegated (moved to grow-out tank)


    Aciotis acuminifolia (moved to grow-out tank)


    Acmella repens (moved to grow-out tank)


    Eriocaulon Ratnagiricum (the splits were showing signs of new growth but over a week degraded and melted away)


    Limnophila Vietnam (moved to grow-out tank)


    Rotala H'ra (moved to grow-out tank)


    Rotala Maka Red (moved to grow-out tank)
     
  13. Jason King

    Jason King barrreport.com
    Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Rajkm :)
     
  14. Julia Adkins

    Julia Adkins aquariumfertilizer.com
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    I cannot understand this drive to wipe out all homeostasis of water chemistry with these huge frequent water changes. Small, as in 25-30%, regular water changes twice a week is much better for everyone's health. Phosphates have a tendency to find their way into tanks in sneaky ways such as excess fish food and impurities in fertilizers. They can build up in the substrate and contribute to algae blooms.
     
  15. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    The reason for larger water changes is to reduce organic and nutrient build-up. Many of us are trying to run the tank on nutrient steroids. The water changes helps against build-up of nutrients while allowing me to dose non-limiting nutrients.


    I can tell you my GDA issues are not due to Phosphates because I did a 4 week regime of using Phosguard and during that period the phosphate stayed below 1ppm but GDA did not go away and I also started seems GSA which are attributed to low phosphate.


    The GDA disappears after a good water change, reduction of bio-load and filter cleaning but re-appears after a week or two, and with other things being equal points to increased organic, bio-load and CO2 competition.
     
  16. Pikez

    Pikez Rotala Killer!
    Staff Member Moderator

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    Homeostasis is neither sought nor achievable in these preternatural high tech tanks. It's fair to say that this forum attracts a breed that does not seek homeostasis - as simple, beautiful, and natural a state as that might be.


    And it's not just water changes! It's also the relentless addition of just-short-of-toxic CO2 levels and nutrients (often yours!) that keep our tanks deliberately off-balance. If anything, the massive water changes promoted here bring our tanks closer to homeostasis.


    Anyone who's been following this technique for a couple of years knows that there is nothing natural about it.


    But it looks nice and as Jagger put it, 'but I like it, like it, yes, I do.'
     
    2 people like this.
  17. edelry.junior

    edelry.junior Plant Enthusiast
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    If nutrient build up caused algae, I should be having a lot. After almost three months of high EI dosing ( weekly adding 30 ppm of NO3, 7 ppm of PO4, 40+ ppm of K, 3ppm of Fe, 70% weekly water change), I have almost no algae. And I say almost because I want to be fair and say that I still have some dots of GSA here and there. But thats it. I do have some stunting though.


    And I am a noob. I don't have a magic ability to avoid algae.


    As Tom says, theres is a correlation but not causation.


    I do not want to bash heads with anyone, and I understand that everybody has their perspective on ferts, and their own experience.


    But it takes a big load off your back when you finally understand/confirm that the ferts for themselves cannot trigger the algae :)
     
  18. rajkm

    rajkm Article Editor
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    Last update on this journal. I had to restart the tank after last weekends unfortunate incident.


    i usually have a spray bottle for H2O2 to spray my glasses and outlets/circulatory. Last weekend as I was doing that , the handle broke and all the H2O2 spilled in the tank. I started with saving the fish and Shrimps. Followed by plants and then a 80% water change.


    well the end result was that most of my fish died except 3 and couple of shrimps. But they also are dead now since they stopped eating.


    Most of my plants melted.


    So I decided to scrap the tank and start new. I will post a new journal for that.


    With the new start I am going with Amazonia since there is no fish to worry about. I am impressed by the root development of plants in Amazonia garage tank, so going to use it on this tank too.


    It was a good run and I grew a lot of different and difficult plants. They all taught me a lot.
     
  19. Jason King

    Jason King barrreport.com
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    Sorry to hear this, you had a nice selection of plants and sad for the fauna.


    Looking forward to the new start.
     
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