Is a BlueLine 55HD Pump be an overkill for a 110g 60x18x24 , I am replacing my Mag 5 pump, My plants are doing good on one side of my tank and in the center out to the other side i have BBG, I am running spray bars on each end Eheim 2028 on the right and left i have inline system co2 reactor and heater. For my new pump i will change my inline to 3/4 line and the return i have not decide it to use 2 duel loc-line with flair nozzle or use an old 46inch spray bar i built a long time go .
New Pump For a 110g
- Thread starter inkslinger
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hani is the 150x Pan World the same as the BlueLine 55 HD May ask did you sell your pump? I was just looking at the Poseidon 3. also but i read that it kicks out some extra heat like 4* to 6*. My thank is sometimes 78* in the winter and summer its 80*-83* with out a heater
What type of pumps does people use for large tanks? Do you look for a good circulations in the tank, turn over rate, or is the pressure pump better ? What if i use a large 18 Mag Drive with fractionating impeller could i still keep my AM1000 inline ?
My Head Loss is about 14 feet
My Head Loss is about 14 feet Inkslinger,
If you have that much head already, the MAG 18 is not as good for that. I would recommend you step up to an Iwaki, panworld, etc. If I had a 100 gal or larger, I would get a better high pressure pump, rather than a Mag drive again.
it really depends on what other components you are running (venturi, canisters, UV, etc) and what you want to accomplish.
I used to use an 18 on my 180 to power my and it did not do enough.
I switched to a Panworld 250 and NC canister and mazzei setup, so pressure was much more important than flow for me.
I also use two Koralia 4 in the tank on opposite ends to help flow/distribution.
Hope this helps.
If you have that much head already, the MAG 18 is not as good for that. I would recommend you step up to an Iwaki, panworld, etc. If I had a 100 gal or larger, I would get a better high pressure pump, rather than a Mag drive again.
it really depends on what other components you are running (venturi, canisters, UV, etc) and what you want to accomplish.
I used to use an 18 on my 180 to power my and it did not do enough.
I switched to a Panworld 250 and NC canister and mazzei setup, so pressure was much more important than flow for me.
I also use two Koralia 4 in the tank on opposite ends to help flow/distribution.
Hope this helps.
Gerryd I have been looking at the BlueLine 55 HD but would it be to much, I only run a UV Light , AM 1000 , Hydro Heater right now , I have a Ehiem 2028 275gph filter on the other side of my tank. Should i go with a smaller Koralia pump
Hi,
I think the HD 55 would be fine. It pushes 1100 gph with 28' max head. You can go higher, but always place a ball valve immediately after the pump outlet just in case.......
Especially if you are running what you have now on a mag 500. It will be a very nice upgrade........btw, check e-bay. I got my Panworld recond for a LOT less than new.........
If your tank is 60" in length, I would get a model III or IV. I used smaller and they don't do much in a large tank......Or I would get two model II and place one on each end........
You can split the flow and use throttle valves to run the reactor on one leg and the UV and heater on another if you want.......
Do you have a sump? This is NOT a submersible pump like the mag 500......Also the inlet/outlet on this pump is 1"......
Hope this helps.
I think the HD 55 would be fine. It pushes 1100 gph with 28' max head. You can go higher, but always place a ball valve immediately after the pump outlet just in case.......
Especially if you are running what you have now on a mag 500. It will be a very nice upgrade........btw, check e-bay. I got my Panworld recond for a LOT less than new.........
If your tank is 60" in length, I would get a model III or IV. I used smaller and they don't do much in a large tank......Or I would get two model II and place one on each end........
You can split the flow and use throttle valves to run the reactor on one leg and the UV and heater on another if you want.......
Do you have a sump? This is NOT a submersible pump like the mag 500......Also the inlet/outlet on this pump is 1"......
Hope this helps.
Gerryd I was planing on getting two model II and place one on each end. My other plan was doing my line to 3/4 , I'm running now is 5/8 , got to change my UV Light to something bigger that will handle at lest 1200gph , Heater also needs to be install with my Eheim Filter because of ti's hose size 5/8, and my AM 1000 CO2 Reactor is 1/2 I have not figure that out yet , ether do a mod to it or replace it with a Mazzie
Well, a mazzei is nice, and would work well with the better pump.
However, you can use ball valves to throttle flow, and use two parallel lines.
1 with limited flow to the AM1000 by using a ball valve on the input to the reactor.
A second line that runs the heater, UV.
Then you merge these two back to the tank.
If you go a little higher pump, you can also install either an Ocean clear or nu-clear canister in addition to the eheim.
That would give you very nice filtration. I bet you could eliminate the eheim.
I run my 180 with just one NC 533 as filtration along with sponges at the intakes. Water is crystal clear, so I think the 100 would do well with this type of setup.
Hope this helps.
However, you can use ball valves to throttle flow, and use two parallel lines.
1 with limited flow to the AM1000 by using a ball valve on the input to the reactor.
A second line that runs the heater, UV.
Then you merge these two back to the tank.
If you go a little higher pump, you can also install either an Ocean clear or nu-clear canister in addition to the eheim.
That would give you very nice filtration. I bet you could eliminate the eheim.
I run my 180 with just one NC 533 as filtration along with sponges at the intakes. Water is crystal clear, so I think the 100 would do well with this type of setup.
Hope this helps.
So keep the Line at 3/4 an run them parallel , AM 1000 would have a ball valve w/3/4 to 1/2 reducer , Then merge it back to the Heater ,UV. I think i need to draw it on paper to see what that would look like ? Not a bad idea thou , so would a BlueLine 70 HD be better than, I was trying to keep the watts down a little.
I think you would be okay with the smaller pump with your current components....
Yes, drawing on paper helps a lot! Trust me, I have made many changes over the last couple of months in terms of plumbing and hardware, that I HAD to draw them to see what parts I needed and how it would work.
Saved lots of time and aggravation, fer sure!
Also got plenty of help/ideas from forum members and other threads.....
Yes, drawing on paper helps a lot! Trust me, I have made many changes over the last couple of months in terms of plumbing and hardware, that I HAD to draw them to see what parts I needed and how it would work.
Saved lots of time and aggravation, fer sure!
Also got plenty of help/ideas from forum members and other threads.....
I just came across a BlueLine 70 HD 16 months old for $160.00 would that be a good price?? I waiting for the person to send me some pic's She still has it on line She needs to redo her pluming for her new bigger pump
A quick web search shows $250-275 usd new.
Based on the condition, I would say it should be okay. How were they using it?
Want to ensure they didn't use it to run a 3,000 tank!
BTW, that is a powerful pump. Be sure to use ball valves to throttle flow and if possible provide a bypass for the extra flow. This will use more of your flow and decrease the temp of the pump. The pump does run much hotter than the mag IME.
I got my Panworld on e-bay. It was reconditioned and a lot less $ than new, and works fine.
Based on the condition, I would say it should be okay. How were they using it?
Want to ensure they didn't use it to run a 3,000 tank!
BTW, that is a powerful pump. Be sure to use ball valves to throttle flow and if possible provide a bypass for the extra flow. This will use more of your flow and decrease the temp of the pump. The pump does run much hotter than the mag IME.
I got my Panworld on e-bay. It was reconditioned and a lot less $ than new, and works fine.
You know Gerryd, It is a good buy , But I'm not sure if I want to go with that much watts.
55 HD = 170watts and 70 HD = 290watts for a 110g tank. What size is your Panworld for your 180g tank, I have a friend that has a 250g display tank at his store and he uses the BlueLine 70 HD he runs his thur a sump and boy it's quit
55 HD = 170watts and 70 HD = 290watts for a 110g tank. What size is your Panworld for your 180g tank, I have a friend that has a 250g display tank at his store and he uses the BlueLine 70 HD he runs his thur a sump and boy it's quit
WoW that must rack up on your electric Bill . That is why I might not go for the 70 HD but the lady does not know for sure if that's what it is so i email here to check for me I might get lucky and it be a 55 HD! I have been hanging out on a web site call Boston Reefers {only because there are a lot of good buys that are Local to me for easy buy's and sell some use equipment that i have also} and someone had email me that he has a 2 month old Panworld 150ps for $190. the only thing is that he cut the cord to put it on a switch? I don't know? Can you open the pump to replace a cord, is it easy to do? I told him I had to wait on this lady to see what she has first.
Well the 55 is also nice and would do well for your size tank.
Yes, electric is more but is one of my very few vices, so I don't mind.
Any cord can be replaced. You can open the pump cover up to do this. Some of the Iwaki Japanese models do not come with a power cord, and the owner has to get/install one. The panworld's all come with a cord attached.
If you are not comfortable, ask the LFS if they can help. I bet you can find exploded views of each type of pump on the web. I know panworld site has these tech drawings. You can see how the cover fits on and all the components.
Shouldn't be too hard to do. Just get a nice heavy power cord and take your time. There are not that many wires, only pos and neg.......
I think the 55 can also work as I THINK they are equivalent to the Iwaki 40 and Tom uses that on his 180 starfire.........
Think a bit too about your future plans. A larger fish load will require more filtration or flow........Or you may graduate to a larger tank.....
Pump's are an expense, but you will have it for a long time, so this is a long-term investment.
Hope this helps.
Yes, electric is more but is one of my very few vices, so I don't mind.
Any cord can be replaced. You can open the pump cover up to do this. Some of the Iwaki Japanese models do not come with a power cord, and the owner has to get/install one. The panworld's all come with a cord attached.
If you are not comfortable, ask the LFS if they can help. I bet you can find exploded views of each type of pump on the web. I know panworld site has these tech drawings. You can see how the cover fits on and all the components.
Shouldn't be too hard to do. Just get a nice heavy power cord and take your time. There are not that many wires, only pos and neg.......
I think the 55 can also work as I THINK they are equivalent to the Iwaki 40 and Tom uses that on his 180 starfire.........
Think a bit too about your future plans. A larger fish load will require more filtration or flow........Or you may graduate to a larger tank.....
Pump's are an expense, but you will have it for a long time, so this is a long-term investment.
Hope this helps.
Well Gerryd came across a better deal, This Gentleman had to down size his pump in his 75g tank wet-dry filter said it was to much for his tank he went a bought a smaller pump.
so I bought on Ebay a 8 month old Blue Line 55 HD Pump for $85. and $15. for shipping.
Now I got to design a lay out of my pluming , Thinking of using 2 1/2 duel Loc-Line with 1/2 flares on 3/4 PVC for my return so that i can direct the flow in the back of the tank. I haven't figure out yet for the co2 reactor , probably what you said earlier Tee off with a valve loop it back to the uv light and heater then merge back to 2 return lines ? or Tee off an have 2 separate returns . Can't wait to get the pump.
so I bought on Ebay a 8 month old Blue Line 55 HD Pump for $85. and $15. for shipping.
Now I got to design a lay out of my pluming , Thinking of using 2 1/2 duel Loc-Line with 1/2 flares on 3/4 PVC for my return so that i can direct the flow in the back of the tank. I haven't figure out yet for the co2 reactor , probably what you said earlier Tee off with a valve loop it back to the uv light and heater then merge back to 2 return lines ? or Tee off an have 2 separate returns . Can't wait to get the pump.Good price! Best of luck with it. Don't forget to test the pump when you get it.......
Use a large sink or bathtub so you can get an idea of the flow with nothing hooked up.
Then when components are installed, you have a comparison basis.....
Good luck!
Use a large sink or bathtub so you can get an idea of the flow with nothing hooked up.
Then when components are installed, you have a comparison basis.....
Good luck!
Gerry, from what I read, mazzei will give a lot of tiny bubbles like mist. How tiny are those bubbles? One reason why I don't like diffusor is because of the visibility of those bubbles. They fly all over the tank. I know, Tom love themGerryd;31050 said:
When you throttle the flow, wouldn't that have any bad effect of the Panworld (or any other pump for that matter). I mean would it shortened the life span of the pump? I mean, the pump wants to release X amount of water in an hour, and you are actually using ball valves to block (reduce) the flow. Woudn't that make the pump hotter?
I read some info on NC here.
So your 533 is a Micron Mechanical & Carbon Filter. I wonder if your also using it as a biological filter (would it work in the first place?). Or do you have something like the Model 546 - Biological Filter with Bio-Disc, that you place before the NC 533?