Greetings! This is my first post here. Im really liking this forum! Thank you, Tom Barr, and all the others who have worked so hard at it.
I would like to set up a 125g tank (I currently have a low-tech 28g). Ive been researching how to set up the new tank for about a month. My water parameters are as follows:
pH: 7.8
KH: 200-300ppm (hard)
GH: 150ppm (hard)
Tank dimensions: 72 x 18 x 21
Finnex Planted +24 Aquarium LED light (2-36 strips on glass - goes up to 60 PAR max on the dawn, midday, afternoon, dusk, to night light automatic setting, so low-medium light. I haven't yet purchased these.)
2 Eheim canister filters (they're older, don't remember the exact model)
I would like a fully-planted, Amazonian set-up, with driftwood, terracing, and some clear space in the middle for the fish to school. Im looking at these fish, as I had them when I was a child:
Neon Tetras
Marbled Hatchetfish
Corydoras
Otos
Loaches
Ghost Catfish or Scissor-Tail Rasboras
Swordtails or Platies (asking for fry, I know)
Pearl Gouramis
Harlequin Rasboras
Bristlenose Plecos (already have in 28g)
Female Bettas (already have in 28g)
Id like to use either Safe-T-Sorb or Up Aqua soil/sand. Both of them potentially have the same problem: crashing the KH/lowering the pH (although since my water is so hard, I'm hoping that won't be a problem). The Safe-T-Sorb is a heck of a lot cheaper but doesn't contain nutrients. I'd prefer not to use CO2 or Excel but will dose EI as Tom suggests for a non-CO2 tank.
I currently have a few questions, and I welcome any and all constructive criticism about the information I've listed:
1. Ive come across a couple posts about Up Aqua where people have said it didnt lower their pH (or did so very little). Is this the general experience? Has anyone had it really change their pH?
2. Im considering the Dry Start Method. I read where Tom says, Generally this method is most suited for lawns of HC, Glossostigma, Crypts, some stem plants, swords, dwarf clover, dwarf hygro and the like. Ill be using many anubias sp., crypts, swords, moss, HC, (and vals and some stem plants after the tank had been flooded). Any personal experience about using these plants with DSM?
3. After flooding the DSM, what percentage/kind of water changes are needed? I saw where one person was doing 80% every day or two at first, but was using an organic substrate and not using ferts that needed to be cleared out after flooding, so I'm not sure why?
Thank you!
-Michelle
I would like to set up a 125g tank (I currently have a low-tech 28g). Ive been researching how to set up the new tank for about a month. My water parameters are as follows:
pH: 7.8
KH: 200-300ppm (hard)
GH: 150ppm (hard)
Tank dimensions: 72 x 18 x 21
Finnex Planted +24 Aquarium LED light (2-36 strips on glass - goes up to 60 PAR max on the dawn, midday, afternoon, dusk, to night light automatic setting, so low-medium light. I haven't yet purchased these.)
2 Eheim canister filters (they're older, don't remember the exact model)
I would like a fully-planted, Amazonian set-up, with driftwood, terracing, and some clear space in the middle for the fish to school. Im looking at these fish, as I had them when I was a child:
Neon Tetras
Marbled Hatchetfish
Corydoras
Otos
Loaches
Ghost Catfish or Scissor-Tail Rasboras
Swordtails or Platies (asking for fry, I know)
Pearl Gouramis
Harlequin Rasboras
Bristlenose Plecos (already have in 28g)
Female Bettas (already have in 28g)
Id like to use either Safe-T-Sorb or Up Aqua soil/sand. Both of them potentially have the same problem: crashing the KH/lowering the pH (although since my water is so hard, I'm hoping that won't be a problem). The Safe-T-Sorb is a heck of a lot cheaper but doesn't contain nutrients. I'd prefer not to use CO2 or Excel but will dose EI as Tom suggests for a non-CO2 tank.
I currently have a few questions, and I welcome any and all constructive criticism about the information I've listed:
1. Ive come across a couple posts about Up Aqua where people have said it didnt lower their pH (or did so very little). Is this the general experience? Has anyone had it really change their pH?
2. Im considering the Dry Start Method. I read where Tom says, Generally this method is most suited for lawns of HC, Glossostigma, Crypts, some stem plants, swords, dwarf clover, dwarf hygro and the like. Ill be using many anubias sp., crypts, swords, moss, HC, (and vals and some stem plants after the tank had been flooded). Any personal experience about using these plants with DSM?
3. After flooding the DSM, what percentage/kind of water changes are needed? I saw where one person was doing 80% every day or two at first, but was using an organic substrate and not using ferts that needed to be cleared out after flooding, so I'm not sure why?
Thank you!
-Michelle
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