Need help with 48" high tank

Honestly, you shoukld do the tnk 96x 36H and 48 D, this dimesion will make the tank look much better.

Height is not a good quality truthfully , depth front to back is and makes the tank look bigger.

The view have much more potential.

A lot of folks wnat to the taller tanks to save on space or so they can have a better view of their fish, this is not so obvious, but you see them better with depth in the tank, the environment looks more natural also.

You can do a lot more aquascaping wise also.

And of course the more obvious issues, 36" is about the limits you really want to work on in a tank that you need to prune.

When you drain it 1/2 way, you have about 18" of water and can easily lean in and trim etc, lighting is also easier. If you have 48 to work with, you must dive in and hang, not easy, 24" deep water is also hard to prune in.

It;s a big deal and I cannot tell you enough that you shoyuld really never get much over 36 if you plan on having a nice planted garden in there as a general rule.

You can, but the work load is more and the over all impression and look will be better with the other dimension.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

I've spent a lot of time recently in a 48" deep tank.
I also have the tools etc, but they are of limited use when it comes to more practical matters like balancing your self in rather precarious positions etc.

Go with 36x36 if you cannot go that other dimension.

96x36x36 is still a deep tank and a large system.
I'd also suggest 4 x 400 w MH's for lighting, electronic ballast, 6500K bulbs and 8 x 54 w T5.

You will need an overflow(have this into the wall rather than taking up tank space), 2 intakes for the lower just above the gravel layer for a couple of canister mechanical filters ( a pair of Ocean Clear filters perhaps ) that return on a closed loop. the overflow will lead to a large sump/wet/dry that's sealed( just the Dry section, not the entire sump). Also a nice large 2" drain near the gravel line also. That should take about 10 minutes to drain 1/2 the tank.

You need to have a refill plumbed directly into the tank and perhaps a RO system with reservior if you want lower KH.

I'd use a top of the line Iwaski pump for return and another for the dual OC canister filters. You might consider a glass tank instead of Acrylic also.

CO2: use a pair of venturi's 3/4" fed right into the return, use 600GPH powerheads to drive each of these.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

I have a preference for glass.
It looks better to my eye.

Acrylic can be buffed out for smaller haze like scrathes, glass really can't.
Acrylic is going to be cheaper at this size.
It's going to be much lighter and easier to set the tank in.
Stronger and less chance of breaking it.
I really do not like more than about 30-36" tall for glass.

so therer are other considerations beside just the look.
Over time, and if the setting can occur with Glass, many are happier with that.
Low iron glass, it does not have to be that star fire glass, (I've done tanks with and without that and never could tell much difference once the tank was set up)
can be used for the front and side panel for an added cost.

I think if you plan on staying at the home etc for the rest of your life type of thing, no baseballs flying around etc, safe location for the tank, you can do that and be very pleased.

You might consider on site construction.
Depends on where it's located.

I will say it certainly will be more $$$ wise, but that might not deter you.

With larger systems, I tend to use open tops and go more light a natural rock with Glass panels placed around the in door pond. It's cheaper, more unique and lots easier to work on. Or a series of tanks all linked together in block units.

I just personally would not do anything over about 30" deep and would use glass in all cases given a choice for a single tank.

But that's just myself.

Regards,
Tom Barr



Regards,
Tom Barr