My VTS 250D and needle valve arrived today

[fjf888]

The quality is quite evident when you actually hold the parts. This fabco valve makes the clippard feel like a bad joke.

 

[Gerryd]

Sweet setup....Post more pics when in use

 

[fjf888]

Sweet setup....Post more pics when in use

I'm going to take it nice and slow on the build. If its useful I can start a build thread.

Going to spend a lot of time in your build thread trying to figure out all the other stuff I need to get.

 

[rockhoe14er]

I got the same needle valve and love it so far.

 

[fjf888]

DRAFT Parts List Check for My build

Parts List:

1) Victor VTS 250D with CGA 540 regulator (already have)

2) Swagelok 1/4" x 1/8" Hex Reducing Nipple
Part Number: B-4-HRN-2

3) Swagelok 1/8" Street Elbow
Part Number: B-2-SE

4) Bukert Solenoid Type 6011 (Viton)
Part Number: 00456786
http://www.aquariumplants.com/Burker...1_p/bu6011.htm

5) Swagelok 1/8" hex nipple
Part Number: B-2-HN

6) NV-55-18 Micro-Fine™ Needle Valve with 1/8 NPT ports
http://www.fabco-air.com/products/flow_controls/NV-55-18.html

7) Swagelok 1/8" hex nipple
Part Number: B-2-HN

8) Swagelok Check Valve (female threads)
Part Number: B-2C4-1/3

9 & 10 work together

Swagelok Tube Adapter (locking):
For 4mm (ID)/ 6mm OD tubing (these parts work together to lock the hose on the barb):

B-6MO-1-2
and
B-6M5-4m


11) Perma-Seal:
http://www.aquariumplants.com/Perma_...al_p/perm1.htm

12) Regulator Inlet Nuts CO2 CGA-320
http://www.totalindustrialsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=312-6-CO-2&Click=80157

Part number:6-CO-2

13) bubblecounter instead of 9 and 10? This part I am confused on. With 9 and 10 how do you see your bps. I'm missing something obvious here.

Thanks

 

[Matt F.]

Fred,

You can use part #9+10 together:
Swagelok Tube Adapter (locking):
For 4mm (ID)/ 6mm OD tubing (these parts work together to lock the hose on the barb):

B-6MO-1-2
and
B-6M5-4m

OR

You can use a JBJ bubble counter, but you'd have to configure the post body a bit differently.
Specifically,

You'd have to get (from the Fabco NV):
Swagelok B-2c2-1/3 (this has male threads unlike the B-2c4-1/3)
JBJ bubble counter

I use ADA glass in-line bubble counters when using tube adapter. This is a superior system as far as quality goes. This system eliminates the often faulty JBJ bubble counter.

 

[fjf888]

Fred,

You can use part #9+10 together:
Swagelok Tube Adapter (locking):
For 4mm (ID)/ 6mm OD tubing (these parts work together to lock the hose on the barb):

B-6MO-1-2
and
B-6M5-4m

OR

You can use a JBJ bubble counter, but you'd have to configure the post body a bit differently.
Specifically,

You'd have to get (from the Fabco NV):
Swagelok B-2c2-1/3 (this has male threads unlike the B-2c4-1/3)
JBJ bubble counter

I use ADA glass in-line bubble counters when using tube adapter. This is a superior system as far as quality goes. This system eliminates the often faulty JBJ bubble counter.

Matt thanks. That makes a lot of sense, that bubble counter will fail without question.

Is this the counter you are referring to?

http://www.adgshop.com/Glass_Bubble_Counter_p/102-201.htm

I hope you weren't talking the beetle counter it is $125.

My only concern is I use an atomizer inline with my wet dry, which creates a fair amount of back pressure, I would think that could shatter the glass (assuming its put on the right way of course )

I think I will go with the 9-10 parts, why put a piece of crap on otherwise good system.

Thanks again

 

[Matt F.]

Matt thanks. That makes a lot of sense, that bubble counter will fail without question.

Is this the counter you are referring to?

http://www.adgshop.com/Glass_Bubble_Counter_p/102-201.htm

I hope you weren't talking the beetle counter it is $125.

My only concern is I use an atomizer inline with my wet dry, which creates a fair amount of back pressure, I would think that could shatter the glass (assuming its put on the right way of course )

I think I will go with the 9-10 parts, why put a piece of crap on otherwise good system.

Thanks again

That's the bubble counter I use on both my tanks. Its pretty thick glass. Not sure if it would work in your application. Might want to ask first.
I had 2 JBJ bubble counters and the check valve on one of them crapped out. That is why the B-2c2-1/3 or B-2c4-1/3 is NEEDED if using a JBJ. The Swagelok check valve is the only thing that will protect your investment should the JBJ check valve fail. Another problem with the JBJs, from what I hear, is that the plastic chamber cracks over time.

With the Swagelok check valve and the tube adapter w/ the ADA glass bubble counter, you'll have a leak free unit that you don't have to think about. Just set it and run.

 

[fjf888]

Everything all ordered except for the CGA 320. Are there any quality differences I need to be concerned about, or a particular place where it would be best to order from?

Thanks

 

[Matt F.]

Here are some configurations that will work for your VTS (look at Post#1 specifically):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds

Here is where I buy my 3" long w/ filter CGA320 nut/nipple:
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

great service. they also rebuild regulators.

 

[fjf888]

Here are some configurations that will work for your VTS (look at Post#1 specifically):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds

Here is where I buy my 3" long w/ filter CGA320 nut/nipple:
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

great service. they also rebuild regulators.

thanks Matt, ordered the CGA nut,

Gotta build this thing, suffered EOTD again, caught me by surprise, fortunately I was home and no permanent harm done. So all my parts are ordered should have everything by 5/9. Now to get that other CGA nut off .

 

[Matt F.]

thanks Matt, ordered the CGA nut,

Gotta build this thing, suffered EOTD again, caught me by surprise, fortunately I was home and no permanent harm done. So all my parts are ordered should have everything by 5/9. Now to get that other CGA nut off .

Air tools really help. Those brass VTS units are glued.

 

[fjf888]

Success. P90-X pays off

 

[fjf888]

Got the CGA 320. Funny, the last part ordered is the first one that arrives

Installation was fairly straightforward

Teflon taped the cga nut, note the right side, that's how to wrench it in. Need to remember to slide the brass nut up the CGA 320 before attaching the CGA 320 to the regulator

Can't forget this part, this holds the locknut in place

Thought it was supposed to be threaded for a permaseal?

All done, pretty easy, even for someone who's all thumbs.

 

[Matt F.]

the permaseal screws into the co2 tank side.
Also, make sure the cga stem is really on there. I fasten the regulator to the co2 tank via the nut, then rotate the whole regulator till it gets tighter.
that little c-clip is fine for preventing the nut from sliding during shipping, etc., but it isn't necessary or needed when using the regulator.
otherwise, nice job!

 

[fjf888]

Should have figured that out. I'll take the clip off and check the CGA stem one more time. I used teflon tape for CGA stem, and its my understanding based on what I've read from you and LeftC that teflon tape is now preferred with all parts that screw directly to the regulator. Is is better to use something other than tape post regulator, or is the tape fine. I also have Teflon paste thread sealer.

 

[Left C]

The general rule that I follow is for Teflon tape on the high pressure parts and non-hardening Teflon thread sealer on the low pressure parts. Matt prefers more Teflon tape than I do. The main things to be concerned with is that no Teflon tape can break off and keep the solenoid from closing and the other is to not have any CO2 leaks. When you tighten the regulator to the CO2 cylinder, use a washer, of course, and to really tighten it down. Then come back and see if you can tighten it some more. Be sure to use the "big arm" on it.

Have you seen the MK II Perma-Seals that do not have the screw on part? I'm not sure if they are still made.

 

[fjf888]

Thanks, that makes sense to me.

I've never seen a perma-seal like you show above.

Thanks for the advice. I found after I checked the CGA nut I could tighten it some more. It seems no matter how hard I think I have something tightened, I can always come back an hour later and get a little more turn.

 

[Left C]

... I found after I checked the CGA nut I could tighten it some more. It seems no matter how hard I think I have something tightened, I can always come back an hour later and get a little more turn.

This is something some people learn after the CO2 cylinder has emptied too soon. You know about it from the "get-go" and you don't have to worry about it.

 

[Matt F.]

The general rule that I follow is for Teflon tape on the high pressure parts and non-hardening Teflon thread sealer on the low pressure parts. Matt prefers more Teflon tape than I do. The main things to be concerned with is that no Teflon tape can break off and keep the solenoid from closing and the other is to not have any CO2 leaks. When you tighten the regulator to the CO2 cylinder, use a washer, of course, and to really tighten it down. Then come back and see if you can tighten it some more. Be sure to use the "big arm" on it.

Have you seen the MK II Perma-Seals that do not have the screw on part? I'm not sure if they are still made.

AGreed... High pressure connection points get teflon tape and most of the post body gets non-hardening thread sealer. Agreed, you need to be conscious that you don't have any teflon tape break off and get into the system; otherwise, you can clog the solenoid or other components.

I love swagelok parts because you can crank them down with an adjustable wrench as hard as you want, and they will not warp or bend. Can't say the same for the ace hardware or other pipe fittings.

BTW, I built the second SGT500, Left C. Pics to follow.

I don't think they sell the permaseal you show in your post anymore. At least, I don't have a link anywhere for it. They do sell a nylon version of the permaseal.