My 125G in action

mike

Guru Class Expert
Jan 13, 2012
169
0
16
Quebec, Canada
Hi All,

First I want to thank everyone for the advice I got over the past 7 to 8 months which helped me to make this tank a reality. My goal was to make a nature scape, I hope that’s what I achieved. Second, I want to apologise for the poor quality of the video and pictures, they were done from my phone.

It’s a 125G tank (72long x 18wide x 22deep). The Substraight is soil capped with black diamond blasting sand.

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CO2: Pressurized 20# tank with a cheap single stage reg (looking for something better). On about 2 hours before lights on and off about 1 hour before lights off.

Lighting: 2 x 54w T5HO on for 7 to 8 hours. 2 x 39W T5HO and 1 x 96W CF on for about 5 to 6 hours.

Filtration: Fluval FX5 (about 400gph) and BeanAnimal Overflow (about 1500gph). The 1500 gph comes from a Mag 1800 and a Mag 9.5 with needle wheel for CO2. Right now I’m not very happy with the CO2 diffusion method and the 2 mag drives a creating too much heat.

[video=youtube;xGlsbP4b2QM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGlsbP4b2QM&feature=youtu.be[/video]

Ferts:
KNO3 solution that gives me 7.5 mg/l of NO3 3 time as week
KH2PO4 solution that gives me 1.0 mg/l of PO4 3 times a week
CSM+B solutiont that gives me 0.5 mg/l of Fe 3 times a week

As you’ll see in the video, my biggest mistake with the overflow was not going with black glass for the in tank overflow. I instead painted the glass with black Krylon Fusion paint but it peeled off within a week. I will either cut out the front glass and put a black glass or just get the thinnest black glass I can find and silicon it to the front of the glass that’s already there. I also want to change the location of my mag returns. Right now they are all on the right side of the tank which I find makes too much flow. I’ll probably split the 3/4 returns into two half inch returns going to each side. As for my CO2, I may try what Gerry is doing, which is to use a small Rio pump with needle wheel and diffuse the CO2 in the sump just by the return pump.

As for plants, this is what I have in there now:

Hygrophila Rosae (Several Stems)
Rotala Indica (Several Stems)
Anubias nana (3x) / barterie (1x) / coffeefolia (2x)
Java fern (3x)
Sward Plant (1x)
Vallisneria twisted (several)
Cryptocoryne wendtii
sagitaria
Cryptocoryne pontederiifolia (I think... I know it's a crypt but not 100% sure of the type)
Flame moss
Christmas moss
Marsilea quadrifolia
Glossostigma
I have some Egara Densa in there now but that is just for about one month. I will replace it with some Hygrophila Difformis.

My intention for fish is as follows:
Cardinals (50-70),
Ottos (20 – 30) (12 in ther now)
Amano Shrimp (20) (10 in there now)
Angels (12 - 15)
Livebearing fish (already have about 30 so who knows where it will go from there)

Things I like about my 125 are the BeanAnimal overflow, the scape, which is still a work in progress, the amount of flow I have.

Things I want to change are my CO2 diffusion (way too may bubbles), spread my returns around more and lower the heat created by the mag pumps.

I'm still trying to figurout what plant to put right behind the drift wood on the right, I wanted something red but I'm not sure what will do well and stay red. I don't have much luck keeping red plants red.

I also have a diatom algae problem. I haven't changed anything with my ferts or lighting, I'm hoping it's just a cause of the new tank set-up with the soil substraight. For now the ottos are keeping it in check.

Mike
 
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Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
Hi Mike,

Congrats on getting it up and running...I like it....

A few things:

1. How do you have the mag 18 plumbed? It is only a 3/4 outlet from the pump and that will restrict you from the get go. Is why I went from 3/4 to 2" pipe :)

2. How do you have the needle wheel plumbed?

3, I see the 4 locline split and then 2 large outlets on the other side. How is this all plumbed?

The pumps should not produce a lot of heat IME. I have both the mag 18 and rio 1k in the sump and my temp is 77-78 F.

I like the back wall wier and the bean overflow. Nice! You could use pennywort or some ferns to hide the wier instead of paint. May look more natural and easier than moss. Bolbitus may work well as it can grow emersed and will appreciate the flow in front of the wiers.

I would suggest you already have more livebearers than when you started :)

I would suggest more plants for sure even if temporary. Get a few bunches of water sprite and plant a few and let some float of stick em in the wood. Diatoms are more new tank issues and more ottos and time will eliminate it.

Get some better vids if you can of that overflow. I would like some more details on how you plumbed things. I like that sort of thing and it helps others to see how it is done.

Thanks and best of luck with your new baby!!!!
 

mike

Guru Class Expert
Jan 13, 2012
169
0
16
Quebec, Canada
Gerry,

I'll try and get a better camera in the next week or so and do video on the overflow. I show how easy it is to start and stop it. I have stopped it close to 100 time and it has never not started properly.




Gerryd;88199 said:
1. How do you have the mag 18 plumbed? It is only a 3/4 outlet from the pump and that will restrict you from the get go. Is why I went from 3/4 to 2" pipe :)
Yes it is just a 3/4 in all the way to the tank. I tested it a few months ago and I got a little of 1100 gph with 5 feet of head.


Gerryd;88199 said:
2. How do you have the needle wheel plumbed?

In addition the mag 1800 I also have a 9.5 which has a needle wheel in it. I have to CO2 going in the venturi and is chopped up and sent to the tank via a 3/5 pipe also. I get less than 400 gph from that pump

Gerryd;88199 said:
3, I see the 4 locline split and then 2 large outlets on the other side. How is this all plumbed?

The 4 locline are 2 from each mag pump and the 2 large outlets on the left are from a fluval FX5. Right now I'm VERY disappointed with the FX5. There is constantly air caught in it and it creates micro bubbles.

I have some water sprite in my 33g tank. I'll move some to this tank. I like the idea of the bulbitus also.

Thank you

Mike
 

mike

Guru Class Expert
Jan 13, 2012
169
0
16
Quebec, Canada
Gerryd;88199 said:
You could use pennywort or some ferns to hide the wier instead of paint. May look more natural and easier than moss. Bolbitus may work well as it can grow emersed and will appreciate the flow in front of the wiers


Hi Gerry,

I looked at these plants to see how I could use them but I’m not sure how. Are you suggesting I let them float in front of the overflow?


Mike
 
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Gerryd

Plant Guru Team
Lifetime Member
Sep 23, 2007
5,623
22
38
South Florida
mike;88340 said:
Hi Gerry,

I looked at these plants to see how I could use them but I’m not sure how. Are you suggesting I let them float in front of the overflow?


Mike

Hi Mike,

Sorry, I forgot about a response...

Well, basically yes...I would suggest tethering them by the rhizomes so the rhizomes are at the bottom of the wier. This allows the leaves to grow upwards naturally and cover the weir. You just need to keep the leaves trimmed just short of the teeth so as not to impede flow. It may take a bit but would be worth it I think. I think many ferns would grow well in this area.

Or you can use HC or hydrocotyle here as well. You just need to place it horizontally on the wier wall just below the teeth. Both plants will naturally grow cascading down and outwards which is a really nice look.

Hardest part is figuring out how to attach. But it can be done.