This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.
  1. We are after as many aquarium plant images that we can get, doing so will assist us in completing the aquarium plant database.

    https://barrreport.com/threads/aquatic-plant-images-wanted.14374/
    Dismiss Notice

My 125G Build Finally started

Discussion in 'Aquascaping' started by mike, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. mike

    mike Guru Class Expert

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2012
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    4:00 AM
    I started this process in Jan 2012 and now I finally started my 125G tank, it is now less than 2.5 week into the DSM.

    I'm not quite finished the scape, I still have to add some Anubias, moss, and java ferns on more rocks and the drift wood.

    The drift wood comes from Tom,

    View attachment 3326

    View attachment 3327

    View attachment 3328

    Tank Dimensions: 72 long x 22 high x 18 wide (125G)
    Lighting is in a canopy and lights are about 6 inches from water surface: 2 x 54w 48” T5HO (both 6500k), 2 x 39w 36” T5HO fixture ( 1 x 10000k and 1 x 6700K), 1 x 96w PC from AHS (6500k). During the DSM period I’m only using the 2 x 54W lights for about 10 hours. Once the tank is flooded the photo period will be about 8 hours but not all lights at once. The 2 x 54w lights will be on for the full 8 hour period, one in the front of the tank and the other in the back. The other 2 fixtures will be on for about 3 hours in the middle of the photo period, those will be end to end down the center of the tank. So for 3 hours there will be a total of 282w of light. If that is too much I may turn off the 2 x 54W lights for the 3 hours that the 2 x 39w and 96w PC are on.

    Substraight: It’s a soil with a sand cap. At the bottom I sprinkled some Muriate of Potash, Dolomite and Osmocote. On top of that I have a mixture of Top Soil (about 50lbs) mixed with about 5lbs of clay and about 3 lbs of Florite red. That’s spread about 1” in the front to about 1.5” in the back. I capped it off with Black Diamond Blasting sand, between 1.5” in the front and to about 2”/2.5” in the back.

    Filtration/Circulation: I have a BeanAnimal overflow, not quite coast to coast, it’s 48 inches long and I’m using 1” pipe for my drains. I am using 2 Mag Drives for the return, only because I didn’t like the performance of the first Mag pump. I started with a Mag 9.5 with needle wheel impeller for the CO2, but when I measured the volume of water being returned I was only getting about 400 GPH (5 feet of head, a few 90 degree elbow and the fractioning impeller probably reduced the flow a lot). I then added a Mag 1800 which gives me an additional 1100 GPH. My over flow can handle the full return (about 1500GPH) and I even have to dial down the main full syphon return a bit. In addition to the 2 Mag drives in the sump, I also have a Fluval FX5 for polishing which gives me about 350 GPH. I’ll use loc-line on the Mag returns (2 x ½” on each return so 4 x ½ loc-line) to get the water circulated. So I should have about 1850 GPH and if that is not enough I also have a couple of Coralia 450 circulation pumps, but I can't imaging needing them.

    CO2: Pressurized CO2 going into the Mag 9.5 which has a needle wheel. There will be 2 x ½ loc-line on the return but I’m not opposed to putting this pump on a spray bar also.

    Fertilization: Planning on EI with 50% water change each week. It’s already been suggest by Biollante that I add the following:
    1 tsp of KNO3 (3 x week)
    1/8 tsp of KH2PO4 (3 x week)
    1/2 tsp of CSM+B (3 times a week)

    Plants: Here I need a little help. This is what I have/will have in the tank during the DSM
    Marsilea
    HC
    Echinodorus tenellus
    cryptocoryne wendtii
    Java Moss
    Anubias Nana and barteri
    Java Fern

    I’m now looking for background plants and mid ground plants that don’t need much uprooting (I don’t want the soil disturbed too much) :confused:. I don’t mind a little uprooting about every 4 to 6 weeks but not every week. I was thinking some Vals and Sward Plants. Are there any stem plants that I can put that won’t require weekly replanting, trimming I don’t mind? I want something to help fill in the back that will grow about 12 to 18” inches but be full. So if anyone knows what plants are easy to manage in a soil substraight please feel free the chime in.

    Critters: I already have a large number of fan tailed guppies and platies, my daughter loves the fry and who’s to say no to their little girl. I’ll also be adding some Ottos, MTS, CRS and/or Amano shrimp and a larger number of either Cardinals or Ruby nose. I also love Angels but I don’t think they will go well with the above fish, mind you they may help control the guppy and platy population.

    I'm starting to get some white fungus on the drift wood. I soaked it for a good month but I guess I should have put some bleach in the water to kill what ever was on the wood. Right now I'm brushing some excel on the infected parts and it seems to help, I just hope I don't get it on the substraight.

    Mike
     
    #1 mike, Jul 17, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 17, 2012
  2. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
    Lifetime Member

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2007
    Messages:
    5,624
    Likes Received:
    19
    Local Time:
    4:00 AM
    Hi Mike,

    Many rotalas and hygrophila species can be topped several times w/o the need to replant...Many can be trimmed to the desired height as well with no issues...

    Swords and vals/sags will also produce runners in many species and these will need to be culled, based on growth patterns. This will cause some uprooting as well. There are several tall crypts that may also serve you well.

    I have found the white fungus on manzy can be easily removed...I find that the more I rinse the wood prior, the less I get, but it still exists after submersion.

    Tanks looks good. Best of luck....
     
    #2 Gerryd, Jul 17, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 17, 2012
  3. mike

    mike Guru Class Expert

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2012
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    4:00 AM
    Thank you for the feedback Gerry. I will certainly look into the rotala and hygro.

    Mike
     
  4. mike

    mike Guru Class Expert

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2012
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Local Time:
    4:00 AM
    I am coming to the end of my dry start, although I didn’t have any significant mold of fungus problems I also didn’t get the growth I was expecting. It seemed that my old growth was dying as fast as my new growth was coming in. In any case I assume the roots are well established which will help once I flood the tank.

    I will be flooding my tank in the next week or two and I want to confirm a few things in order to avoid any problems.

    To start I will not be putting any fish in the tank for about 3 weeks.

    Until I put fish in the tank I will be keeping the CO2 above 50ppm by using a 5dkh solution and making sure it’s always yellow.

    I will be adding Excel, about ½ the dose, 30 minutes before lights on. I will have some Vals in the tank, should I worry about them melting with the Excel that I will be adding?

    It’s my understanding with a soil substraight there will still be high levels of micros and macros even after an 8 week dry start and that I should be doing an 80% water change every 2nd or 3rd day for about 2 weeks. During this time should I be dosing anything in terms of micros or macros?

    I have also read that during the first 2 weeks I should slowly ramp up my lighting from a 3 hour lighting period to an 8 hour period. Is this correct?
    When I start dosing I will be dosing the following

    I will make a 500ml macro solution of the following and dosing 50mls of it 3x a week:
    57.86g of KNO3 to give me about 7.5ppm of NO3 for each 50ml dose
    6.78 of KH2PO4 to give me about 1ppm of PO4 for each 50ml dose

    I will also make a 500ml micro solution and dose 50mls 3 x a week:
    36.23g of CSM+B will give me about .5ppm of iron for each 50ml dose

    Please let me know if I should be adding more or less of the above. Also, what is the best way to prevent mold from developing in the micro and macro bottles?
     
Loading...

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice