liquid solutions

See here:

http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/3209-want-more-accuracy-want-daily-pmdd-style-ei-dosing.html

What is it that you hope to gain by more accuracy?

Plants, tanks etc are variable, species type, biomass etc...........the dosing you do will never be one size fits all via more accurate results.

Basically you worry about accuracy in an inaccurate but variable biological world.
Things are not that rigid.
That is a good thing.

You can dose more frequently, to keep narrower ranges, then still do the water changes to prevent deviations from a standard range(which is some arbitrary range you set).

It's not some precise set point nor will it ever be.
That's why I suggest estimative...........especially at high growth rates......

the dosing calculators are plenty, we have one here, nutri calc.

http://www.barrreport.com/advanced-strategies-fertilization/1993-simple-ei-dosing-calculator.html?highlight=Nutri+cal

Plug in the amounts you want etc and go from there.
If you plan on doing this, you will have to learn more about it.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Then just take whatever amount you want for a specific tank, multiply out for the days you want(say 2weeks = 14 days).

Add to 1 liter etc.

Say a 20 gallon tank
1/4 tsp x3 a week X 2 weeks= 3x.25x2= 1.5 tsp.

For 20 vs a 29, add 29 gallon/20 gallon = 29/20ths more mls from this same solution.

For the macros being used fast, no HCL is ever needed.
Traces yes, refrigerating can help as well.

So do not mix up that much at once, 2-3 weeks worth etc.
3rdly, yes, 2x.

See The Krib (Aquaria and Tropical Fish) for more and Chuck's cal for more on cal usage and chemicals.

Some simple Google searches will turn up your questions asap.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

That's pretty rich for this tank.

I'd shoot for about 20ppm of NO3 and 3ppm of PO4 for the week.

So 7ppm of NO3 and 1 ppm per dose.

Make sure CO2 and traces are being dosed well.
If you do larger than 50%, you will have less build up, also, if you do 2x a week 50% water change, you will have less build up.

Better to do more water changes, dosing, cleaning, then tweak the CO2 carefully than sit on the hiney and watch things go sour.

Many do this for some reason, I always scratched my head when folks did that.
You can observe all day long, but the bottom line is that it's horticulture, gardening and it takes gardening and work obviously.

If you get a weed issue, you have to do a lot more work to take care of that and until things are beaten back and stabilized.

Just make sure when you do this hobby to focus on what is really important.
It's not testing.
It's not waiting to see what the algae does.
It's not some special miracle balance.

It's water changes, pruning, cleaning, adding ferts consistently, making certain the CO2 is good, not adding too much light, high plant density, herbivores, good sediments etc.

When you do disturbances, like water changes, sediment upheaval, uprooting, filter pad cleaning etc, large pruning events, etc, make sure to do a water change right away thereafter.

This will prevent many issues.

Most of the things we do are really quite basic, no big secrets.

Regards,
Tom Barr

 

Subscriber and member are two different things.
Subscribers have full access, not members.
So some part of the site is free, some is subscription based.
About 30 articles, each about 10-15pages long is why the site was created to ebgin with, not just to start a forum.

Information vs a place meet and talk like all the other forums out there. I'm not interested in gabbing with everyone, rather, focusing more on ideas concepts etc.

As far as your tank, I've factored in the max uptake for the light you are using, to reduce any build up and also to ensure that nothing runs out, the range I gave you ought to work super.

EI is tweaked, for each tank, it not to be used continuously like a sledge hammer. You make adjustments. All it gives is a non limiting starting point. It is not (and the articles says this plainly) to be followed rigidly.

Things, especially biological ones, are more flexible and variable than that.
Still, a simply doing large weekly water changes+ dosing frequently will target any range you might seek.

If you combine say ADA's Aqua soil with EI, and go slightly lean with EI, then you have a very nice method, one that allows plants 2 sources, one you dose and one that's always there(the ADA AS).

So you can reduce the water column dosing if you wish, especially with low light and still get close to the same growth rate.

If you have only 1.5 W gal etc, then you really can get away with very little dosing, especially with a large fish load.

These are just some of the interactions.
Just take a deep breath and realize that there are other things that govern uptake, therefore dosing.

So while some may claim they add nothing, others claim they have to add a lot, finding what drives the uptake rate, is critical in explaining things.

If you do not know what drives uptake, growth etc, plant physiology basics, then you really have a poor understanding about how all these methods work.
It takes time to see this also.

So be patient, you have many years to learn.

Regards,
Tom Barr