Hi all,
I see a lot of questions regarding intensity of lighting and 'how much will I have' questions without speaking in terms of PAR or PUR but instead of WPG (watts per gallon).
So just to highlight how much I think we UNDER ESTIMATE the amount of light we provide, I did a simple measurement.
Specs:
Tank: 45 gal tall 30X12X24 LXWXH
Light: twin bulb all glass light strip with built in reflectors
Bulbs: Verilux T-12 30watt for 60 total watts. Bulbs are in use for at least 18 months with no cleaning prior...
WPG: 1.33
Fixture is mounted 6 inches above the surface. The strip is centrally mounted.
PAR meter: Apogee PAR meter
I measured the PAR at just under the surface, mid-water, and substrate.
The ranges were as I moved the sensor back and forth at the same horizontal level (more or less).
Surface range: 30-60
Mid-water range: 15-35
Substrate range: 5-15
Please note also that shading from other plants also affected these ranges at the various levels.
I would consider this a 'low light' tank regardless of HOW the lighting was provided if the PAR was the same... I contend that most modern T5 fixtures will be quite a bit brighter indeed...esp as many folks mount them on short legs close to the tank.... I do not submit this as any sort of 'proof' just a suggestion that the light levels we have may be higher than we think they are.
Plus add that some use a short burst of MH lighting and it can really challenge you to provide optimal c02 levels....
Also to support that WPG is meaningless in every sense of the word as applicable to understand light levels.....
The L. aromatica was transferred from my c02/EI display tank about 6 weeks ago along with the blyxa and narrow java.
The aromatica still grows very densely but a much lighter shade as you can see from the video..I submit that this is due to loss of c02 and nutrient dosing..
So, stuff grows and well but more slowly...Maybe we don't need high light for aromatica and other stems????
Tank is stuffed full of fish the way I like it...The rasboras are going into the 180 later along with the cards and the majority of the platies will go to friends
and the LFS.....
I completely endorse buying, begging, or borrowing a PAR meter to really get a handle on the light you REALLY have...
I was blown away at first at the levels I was giving my 180...over 300 at the surface and 150+ on the substrate!!!!!!
Lights are now mounted 24" ABOVE the tank
I merely suggest that many of the 4-6 bulb T-5 fixtures may be more than needed.....
Spend your money on other high grade stuff that lasts...lighting does not need to be your most expensive purchase...
Appreciate any comments.
vid link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76ekoDH5Pv0
I see a lot of questions regarding intensity of lighting and 'how much will I have' questions without speaking in terms of PAR or PUR but instead of WPG (watts per gallon).
So just to highlight how much I think we UNDER ESTIMATE the amount of light we provide, I did a simple measurement.
Specs:
Tank: 45 gal tall 30X12X24 LXWXH
Light: twin bulb all glass light strip with built in reflectors
Bulbs: Verilux T-12 30watt for 60 total watts. Bulbs are in use for at least 18 months with no cleaning prior...
WPG: 1.33
Fixture is mounted 6 inches above the surface. The strip is centrally mounted.
PAR meter: Apogee PAR meter
I measured the PAR at just under the surface, mid-water, and substrate.
The ranges were as I moved the sensor back and forth at the same horizontal level (more or less).
Surface range: 30-60
Mid-water range: 15-35
Substrate range: 5-15
Please note also that shading from other plants also affected these ranges at the various levels.
I would consider this a 'low light' tank regardless of HOW the lighting was provided if the PAR was the same... I contend that most modern T5 fixtures will be quite a bit brighter indeed...esp as many folks mount them on short legs close to the tank.... I do not submit this as any sort of 'proof' just a suggestion that the light levels we have may be higher than we think they are.
Plus add that some use a short burst of MH lighting and it can really challenge you to provide optimal c02 levels....
Also to support that WPG is meaningless in every sense of the word as applicable to understand light levels.....
The L. aromatica was transferred from my c02/EI display tank about 6 weeks ago along with the blyxa and narrow java.
The aromatica still grows very densely but a much lighter shade as you can see from the video..I submit that this is due to loss of c02 and nutrient dosing..
So, stuff grows and well but more slowly...Maybe we don't need high light for aromatica and other stems????
Tank is stuffed full of fish the way I like it...The rasboras are going into the 180 later along with the cards and the majority of the platies will go to friends
and the LFS.....
I completely endorse buying, begging, or borrowing a PAR meter to really get a handle on the light you REALLY have...
I was blown away at first at the levels I was giving my 180...over 300 at the surface and 150+ on the substrate!!!!!!
Lights are now mounted 24" ABOVE the tank
I merely suggest that many of the 4-6 bulb T-5 fixtures may be more than needed.....
Spend your money on other high grade stuff that lasts...lighting does not need to be your most expensive purchase...
Appreciate any comments.
vid link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76ekoDH5Pv0
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