Sorry I didn't mean to pooh pooh their claims, just state they were exaggerating a little.
You won't be getting any heat problems from them as long as they are properly heatsinked. Similar to a properly electronic ballasted fluorescent however with fluorescent there is a much larger are that is getting hot so obviously that will affect its surrounding area much more.
Similar to a small radiator turned up full blast isn't going to heat the room as well as a large radiator at half 'blast'.
The Longevity claim is basically taking an old T8 ballast (electric and not electronic (often called magnetic) where it 'flicker' starts the tube. That is where the old 'change the tubes every 6 months claims' also come from. 6 months is a little off the mark IMO. More like a year or so whereas on electronic that can be extended to 3 years or so.
Philips Luxeons are 'said' to last for 50000 hours (Manufacturer's statement) which equates to circa 6 years. (18 years if 8 hours a day!!!)
So you will get double the longevity (24 hours) over electronically ballasted fluoros (not overdriven HOT5s) and 6-10x electric (magnetic) ballasted fluoros.
So no worry with the heat. These get very very hot (do not touch them when they have been on a bit) however that heat is concentrated in a tiny area. The total heat over the whole length will be less then a fluorescent even though you can touch the tube and/or ballast without getting 3rd degree burns. It is the total amount of heat that is spread over the area which would determine the eminating heat.
I was just stating that for them to say they produce virtually no heat. In fact, if you have an all-in-one, chances are you can turn off your fan is wrong. They produce a lot of heat in a small area. They should replace 'produce' with another term to state they aren't going to warm your tank water. That is if they are well vented and properly heatsinked.
The fan statement is a bit of a joke really. LED users (with adequate heatsinking and ventilation) use fans not to cool the water but to assist the heatsinking. They are using them to reduce the risk of the LEDs frying just as PCs use fans to draw the heat away or blow cooler air from/onto the processor and heatsink. Nothing to do with water temperature. lol
No idea why they have put a reflector there in the slightest. Of no use IMO with LEDs. Its lenses or nothing.
I do have to state however I have been highly critical of these types of units over the past couple of years. One huge advantage of LEDs is the ability to space them well. like a grid and therefore spread the light out more evenly rather than be confined to 1 long length like tubes.
These manufacturers don't seem to understand this 'spread' part. Either that or they are pandering to the consumer's desire for slimline units rather than a larger unit like mine
On the PAR/PUR subject above. I am not sure where I am now. lol I am continuously learning and continually correcting my mis-informed knowledge which I find to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of this hobby, if not life in general. Its great to learn
AC
You won't be getting any heat problems from them as long as they are properly heatsinked. Similar to a properly electronic ballasted fluorescent however with fluorescent there is a much larger are that is getting hot so obviously that will affect its surrounding area much more.
Similar to a small radiator turned up full blast isn't going to heat the room as well as a large radiator at half 'blast'.
The Longevity claim is basically taking an old T8 ballast (electric and not electronic (often called magnetic) where it 'flicker' starts the tube. That is where the old 'change the tubes every 6 months claims' also come from. 6 months is a little off the mark IMO. More like a year or so whereas on electronic that can be extended to 3 years or so.
Philips Luxeons are 'said' to last for 50000 hours (Manufacturer's statement) which equates to circa 6 years. (18 years if 8 hours a day!!!)
So you will get double the longevity (24 hours) over electronically ballasted fluoros (not overdriven HOT5s) and 6-10x electric (magnetic) ballasted fluoros.
So no worry with the heat. These get very very hot (do not touch them when they have been on a bit) however that heat is concentrated in a tiny area. The total heat over the whole length will be less then a fluorescent even though you can touch the tube and/or ballast without getting 3rd degree burns. It is the total amount of heat that is spread over the area which would determine the eminating heat.
I was just stating that for them to say they produce virtually no heat. In fact, if you have an all-in-one, chances are you can turn off your fan is wrong. They produce a lot of heat in a small area. They should replace 'produce' with another term to state they aren't going to warm your tank water. That is if they are well vented and properly heatsinked.
The fan statement is a bit of a joke really. LED users (with adequate heatsinking and ventilation) use fans not to cool the water but to assist the heatsinking. They are using them to reduce the risk of the LEDs frying just as PCs use fans to draw the heat away or blow cooler air from/onto the processor and heatsink. Nothing to do with water temperature. lol
No idea why they have put a reflector there in the slightest. Of no use IMO with LEDs. Its lenses or nothing.
I do have to state however I have been highly critical of these types of units over the past couple of years. One huge advantage of LEDs is the ability to space them well. like a grid and therefore spread the light out more evenly rather than be confined to 1 long length like tubes.
These manufacturers don't seem to understand this 'spread' part. Either that or they are pandering to the consumer's desire for slimline units rather than a larger unit like mine
On the PAR/PUR subject above. I am not sure where I am now. lol I am continuously learning and continually correcting my mis-informed knowledge which I find to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of this hobby, if not life in general. Its great to learn
AC
Last edited by a moderator: