Large Tank Owners and Reeflo Pumps FYI

JDowns

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The main challenge here is going to be equilibrium. Even more challenging since your not starting from scratch and have tanks predrilled already.

Failsafe points if a tanks output gets clogged to prevent overflow are going to be critical.

How are you considering the outputs from each tank? This is going to dictate what would work or not. Also esthetics are going to create a few kinks :cool:

I wonder if a basket type catch as a prefilter would work to minimize clogging. A deep basket should catch leaves at the bottom while allowing water to drain out side holes. The basket could easily be removed for quick cleaning.

Fish add a few more kinks to any ideas :eek:
 

Gerryd

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Well this is interesting. I am also looking for a home and want a fish room.

A central filter/pump was my thought sized and scaled based on current/future # of tanks and volume, etc.

I could filter/heat the water as desired for all tanks. Flow/current can be controlled by valves for each tank and each tank would be drilled to connect all of the intakes... I was thinking of some sort of inline sponge coarse media or grate at each tanks intake. This would be removable for maintenance/replacement. This would alleviate the dirt/detritus entering the main filter.

Would also plumb for individual/group water changes as needed. Enough ball valves can do anything lol

I might look into a sand or bead filter to do this as we are talking at least hundreds of gallons of water.

Assume I had even my 180 and a 300 and several breeding tanks?

What about bio? Do I need a huge wet/dry sump that serves all tanks? Or series of NC or OC bio filters? More components/work now.

C02 though is tougher to do centrally. I don't want to deal with indivual reactors, diffusors, venturis, etc on each tank, but how to ensure that each tank gets the PROPER/adequate amount of c02? Even a series of Mazzeis would lose the mist by the time it gets to the tanks. How could I control mist or not on each tank as needed/desired?

Later.
 

JDowns

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JDowns;36084 said:
The pump does very well on heat transfer. The cooling fins are hot to the touch, you can't leave your hand there to long. But tranfer to the tank is minimal. I turned off my cooling fan ( I like my tank in the 74F range) and the tank settled in at a max temp of 80F. I do keep my house cool though, thermometer is set at 74F. Previous setup the tank would max out at 84F. So very happy on that end.

Pump has burned in even better now. I noticed my tank temps dipping due to the cooling fan. Placing your hand on the cooling fins now is no longer hot enough to the touch that you cannot leave your hand there.

Without the cooling fan tank stays in the 75F - 76F range on its own.

House temp is the same so I'm not sure where the difference is, or the pump just takes awhile to burn in completely.

Raising the lights to 16" off the waters surface more than likely has quite a bit to due with the water temps stabilizing, but the pump surely runs cooler.
 

Gerryd

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Hey,

Well I just ordered the 3600 model.......

I will be getting a 2"x1"(5 port) distributor (thanks for the link!) and will run as follows:

Leg 1 = NC547 for bio has guage
Leg 2 = NC533 for mech has guage
Leg 3 = c02 and Mazzei bypass. psi guage after gate valve and prior to mazzei.
Leg 4 = bypass with PSI guage. I might split this into two and run a third NC but use a coarser media and get the 522 with the 100 micron....or maybe another 533.. not sure
leg 5 = most likely a nice quick slip connector and gate valve to use as a drain for water changes and such.

I am undecided as to whether to merge all 4 back to one for the split to each side, or to route 2 legs to each outlet.....I think all 4 back to 1 as otherwise 2 legs may have stronger flow and the outlets will be uneven to the tank. The 1 merge then splits back to two.......

PSI guage at the merge as well just for fun...........
Gate valve before and after the pump, on each leg after the distributor, after each NC and the mazzei, and one if all 4 are merged to control total outlet flow at one point.

True unions all around for maintenenace and such....flex spa hose all around at 1".

I am thinking maybe I can eliminate the koralia iv..

I also may further split the 6 loc line outlets to 8 or more........

I hope it will lower my temps a bit too........

Will keep you all posted.....
 

Gerryd

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Yes you did, but I wasn't sure what model you had.............

I thought I would get a big one and just throttle it...........

I have not heard back from my order e-mail so I guess I can change it......

I am mostly concerned about enough pressure for the mazzei.........
 

JDowns

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I would think for what you are going to be running the 2500 would be more than adequate.

But since these pumps do throttle down nicely, and given the price difference, why not get the larger pump. I would just be concerned with to much. I have all my valves at at least 50% output.
 

Gerryd

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Jdowns,

Yes, I think the 2500 would work, but the price difference was neglible so I went for the larger size. May need it in the future....

I intend on throttle valves all over, so no issue there....

Plus with the bypass it may help me remove a Koralia IV.......

BTW, what kind of gate/throttle valves did you use?

I like the gate valves to control flow, and will use regular ball valves for those places where I want to have on or off for maintenance and such.

If this pump is too much even with throttling, I will immediately upgrade the TANK to fit the pump :) 500 gallon here I come.... I wish, not enough room in the apt............

Later,
 

JDowns

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I used tru-union ball valves instead of gates. I found them just as easy to throttle the flow for the intended purpose. I can dial in a specific PSI on the 533 without issue. I used a sharpie to mark a spot on the handles and the housing, so returning to a specific spot is easy enough. Now if I were using a UV in this setup I would use and recommend a gate valve in order to dial in a specific gph, the same can be said for a mazzie type setup, to be able to precisely dial in a specific flow.

I honestly think you'll be yanking the Korlina. You are going to have more then enough pump.
 

Gerryd

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J,

Yes, I think the flow will be much better.. As stated will most likely add more loc-line outlets as part of the new config.....that should help divert more of the flow...maybe they will come from the middle/bottom and up and outward...some good possibilities here.........

How did you connect the 2" pump connectors to the rest of the spa flex?

I was thinking of just reducing from 2" at the pump to the 1" flex PVC.

OR

running 2" from the pump to the distributor and then 1" from there...........that would flow more volume to the cone and I would feel better using 2" elbows..

is a tight fit to configure the pump to the cone, so at least 2 elbows will be required.........

Will most likely redo the intakes to the pump as well and route nicely out of the way............

Thanks
 

JDowns

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I ran a 2" elbow off the output into a 2" x (5) 1" cone distributor. Four seperate outputs from there via 1" spa flex. I have a few elbows or 45's inline with each output. Just cannot be avoided. I wouldn't be concerned with head loss from elbows, which is also another benefit from having too much pump.

I'm currently testing just running a diffuser near the intake for CO2. So far without the mesh mod I'm getting comparable mist and CO2 response time. Looks like I'll be able to get rid of the extra pump which will be nice also. The diffuser breaks up the CO2 into fine enough particles, and by the time it makes it through the plumbing its well diffused and even finer, and then gets blown around the tank. This is a benefit of having bypass runs just for circulation.

I also have the input to the diffuser t'd so CO2 during the day and O2at night, to see if I can get away with less surface agitation while still maintaining good O2 at night, the plants should produce more then enough during the day.

Happy Blyxa

jdowns-albums-aquatic-plants-picture1069-blyxa-japonica.jpg
 

Gerryd

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Nice blyxa!

I like the 2" to the cone and then the 1" flex....and was thinking that was the way to go.....did you put a throttle between the cone and the pump?

I am pretty sure I will have one PRIOR...

What are your thoughts on using a SECOND cone on the other end for the merge??

I think that would be a neat way to merge them instead of multiple coupled T fittings.
 

JDowns

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Gerryd;36896 said:
Nice blyxa!

I like the 2" to the cone and then the 1" flex....and was thinking that was the way to go.....did you put a throttle between the cone and the pump?

I am pretty sure I will have one PRIOR...

What are your thoughts on using a SECOND cone on the other end for the merge??

I think that would be a neat way to merge them instead of multiple coupled T fittings.

No no throttle in between the cone and the main output. Each distribution point has its own individual tru union ball valve. So no need for a throttle point there from my viewpoint..

All my outputs go to individual outputs to the tank, with the exception for the mesh mod which got wyed from one to two outputs. Which will probably change. Gonna test for at least a few weeks before I yank it.

As for merging multiple lines into one for 1" , sure. You could use the 1.5 by 4(1 inch ports) with a 1" slip adapter for the 1.5" side. Any unused ports could be easily plugged, or use a slip adapter with a threaded plug so it can be utilized in the future.
 

Gerryd

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Hey,

Well the pump was delivered today.......

Pretty impressive from a size standpoint. I did get the 3600 model.. Will post a side by side pic later........

The height of the outlet is several inches taller than my current pump, so will have to figure an easy way to connect w/o a total redo.....

Thankfully with the bigger pump, a few (dozen ? lol) elbows and such on the outlet should not be an issue.

The final(?) config will look pretty goofy I think to fit it in my current plumbing as I had sized pretty closely for the pump/components I had, but we will see...

The inlet should be no problem, just need an adaptor or two and maybe reduce the flex hose a bit. It is the outlet which will be a struggle.

I will most likely do the swap this weekend and will post the pics/initial results.

Later,
 

Gerryd

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Hey all,

The swap is complete. Pretty much like it was just a bit neater......

Very quiet pump but so far no more powerful than the ps-250 I replaced it with.

I have an e-mail into reeflo to see if I am expecting too much...

But just based on flow and PSI readings, it seems LESS powerful than the pan world, but we will see,

It is VERY quiet.

Here is a side by side and a pic of the new plumbing:
 

JDowns

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Thats one thing that really impressed me was the noise level of these pumps. They are very quiet, with low watt consumption.

Mine got even quieter / cooler a month after burn in time.

I'm surprised at the flow though. How is the input plumbed? That would be the greatest point for friction loss that I can/can't see from your config.

If I opened up all my valves I would have no rooted stems anymore.
 

Gerryd

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J,

If I opened up all my valves I would have no rooted stems anymore.

Yes, and that may have led to my expectations........but you did go from much smaller pumps, yes? While mine is more of a lateral move.....

What size tank are you using your pump on again?

Plus, all of your outlets go to individual tank returns no? All of my 3 parallel leg outlets are merged back together to one, so then split to each side. All 1" until the last split.

My intake is as follows and is the same as it was, except the 1"-2" bushings:

1" intake inside the wiers. One on each side. Meet at a T. T flows downward to a 1"-2" adaptor and to the pump.

Did a better job giving space around each component and separating the legs a bit more each....So was worth it there too.

It is VERY QUIET for sure, but as stated, all valves open, and PSI and flow are LESS than the other pump.

The mist seems about the same, but we will see how the c02 fares over the next week.

I will also keep an eye on the temp, as it was back up to 85.9 again. At 81.4 now.......

Not sure what the issue is. Seems to work fine, unless I am just not flowing enough water into it......

Possibly the old pump at 1" did not need as much volume/flow for the inlet, but the new one does........

If I increase to 2" intakes, I will get some more volume, but my bulkheads are still 1" regardless...

I am unsure if it can GET any quieter. The difference is literaly night and day. I won't know it's running if it gets quieter :)

I really mean it about the noise level. It is almost non-existant. Reminds me of my old sump setup with the mag drives in the sump. Made no noise and this is the same.

If the performance is equal to the old, I would keep this one just for the noise reduction alone.

maybe I need a smaller model that requires less flow??????????
 

JDowns

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A 150g, 60x24x24.

The main difference between the two setups is I use a 2" intake.

Yes each leg of the the returns are seperate 1" runs. One run that is a straight bypass, one run to the NC's, one run to the CO2 which is split into two returns. So a total of four inputs into the tank.

My gut tells me the pump is choking on the 1" inputs, which isn't allowing the pump to operate optimally, giving you friction loss on the input side. But thats a question for Reeflo to answer.

Yes I went from a group of much smaller pumps. It replaced 2 Mag9.5's running in parallel and a Mag 5 for CO2/flow, with 3/4" plumbing. So yes a much improved situation on my end.

Are your bulkheads sch 80? If I remember correctly you can jump to 1 1/4 if you switched to sch 40.
 

Gerryd

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J,

Yes, I think it is the intake flow/volume as well.

My tank is bottom drilled with 1" bulkheads.

I would always have a 1" restriction point at the bottom glass even if I went to 2" everywhere else, no?

Not sure what the sched 40 vs 80 will do????? How do I tell what I have? The bulkhead is black and I can't tell if it covers a larger hole than the 1"

Please elaborate on your 2" intake setup?

I did this as a basic pump replacement...lol It looks like I should have researched a bit more, or done some more work..........
 

JDowns

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Typically sch 80 is grey, while sch 40 is black. sch 80 will require a larger hole diameter than sch 40. So if you had sch 80 1", you could use a sch 40 1 1/4" in the same hole. But it sounds like you already have sch 40.

I'm 2" down from the weir to an elbow, then to a 2" tru union ball valve, then into the pump. So I get virtually no friction loss.

I would think a larger pipe as close to the intake as possible would be best. You will still have a choke point, but reduce friction loss along the length of the pipe until you t' together. I would ask Reeflo for their recommendation.

I was able to drill the tank since its acrylic, to go from 1 1/4 to 2".