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Is this considered high light?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Mikeybabs, Aug 18, 2011.

  1. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Hoppy's PAR readings for the T5HO's are based on using very good reflectors similar to what you have.
     
  2. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Cool thanks! :)
     
  3. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Are you good to go now?
     
  4. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Well I'm still wondering whether to do excel or do complete no co2... Should I just wait and see how the plants do after awhile?
     
  5. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    If it was me, I would dose Seachem's Excel and Flourish at Seachem's dosing rate to start with. Flourish has traces plus a tiny amount of NPK, Mg and Ca. Your 4, 4, 4, 4 lighting plan will most likely need some tweaking with the nutrients plus Excel needed and the amount time the lights are on and off to be successful.

    My Main Button Row plus the Advanced Button isn't showing up for some reason. I can't do hyperlinks. Are all your button options showing up? EDIT: I found the problem. It is my Firefox Browser.

    Excel: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/FlourishExcel.html

    Flourish: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Flourish.html

    MS Office Excel based Seachem Dosing Calculator: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilizing/45119-seachem-dosing-calculator-chart.html (Seachem's online calculator doesn't include Excel and Flourish????: http://www.seachem.com/Library/Calculators.html)
     
    #25 Left C, Aug 21, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 21, 2011
  6. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Thanks! I will try this out! I already have both of those that you linked to.
     
  7. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    I just read your other thread. In it you said that you have the entire line of Seachem's ferts. I wasn't aware of this when I made my reply above. Since you have them, dose them according to Seachem's suggested dosing to start with. That little Excel based calculator that I gave you the link to will make it easy. Also, since it is Excel based, you can modify it in anyway that Excel can be modified. You can "unhide" the columns to view and/or modify the formulas used.

    There were several different views on how much light that you actually have. I just looked at Hoppy's chart and posted what it said. It didn't agree either. Then it is compounded by your 4, 4, 4, 4 lighting schedule and its effects on your plants. This affects your dosing.

    Anyway, when you run out of Seachem's N, P and K products, you can make your own solutions with dry ferts that will be very similar. The only difference is that F. Nitrogen contains both ammonium and nitrate whereas my suggestion only uses nitrate.

    Dosing Solutions
    - Add 61.7 grams of KNO3 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Nitrogen Substitute
    - Add 3.4 grams of KH2PO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Phosphorus Substitute
    - Add 50.8 grams of K2SO4 to 500 mL of distilled water for F. Potassium Substitute
     
  8. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Thanks a lot. At first I was following the excel spreadsheet dosing guidelines. For water volume should I keep it at 40 gallons since that's about how much water is in the 55 gallon tank? Also, can I mix the fertilizers and excel together and have them pre measured for an entire week?

    I changed my lighting schedule to 8 consecutive hours everyday (10am-6pm)
     
  9. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Dose for 50g to start with and then monitor your plants' health. Don't mix the products together. Keep them separate. You can probably mix the NPK together in a bottle, Flourish, Flourish Iron and Trace together in a bottle and keep Excel separate. It is best to keep them separate for now until you get a handle on things. You may find that you need to change something.

    10 hours is a good lighting cycle duration.
     
  10. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Can I store each dose in a weekly pill container and just open the pill cap for the day and dump it in? Shouldn't be a problem since it's not being mixed and has a cover on it.. So I think I'll do that...

    One last thing though... The previous owner of my lights is swearing by that they are not low lights and that they are in the medium to high range... Which contradicts the charts that were shown. Are there any factors we aren't considering that could mean that it's more than low light? He recommended doing 4 hours a day if I wanna stick with a low light no co2 method

    If I'm giving too much light what are some signs to look for and how fast will I be able to tell if there are problems with there being too much light? I will up the lighting from 8 to 10 hours but i hope I don't burn out the plants!

    Lol

    Thanks so much for your help!
     
  11. Gerryd

    Gerryd Plant Guru Team
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    On what does he base his claim for med to high light? Unless he has some PAR measurements he is guessing just like we were when you first posted :)

    Sorry, but 'med' or 'high' light levels are very subjective if not using a base and equal unit of measure. PAR provides this across all lighting types..
     
  12. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Flourish and F. Iron need to be in an opaque container. Light breaks them down.

    Amano uses 10 hours in his aquariums. That is why I suggested it.

    Too much light can lead to nutrient deficiencies and/or algae. You can either increase the nutrients or reduce the lighting or do both.

    The main thing to do is to decide how you want to run it and then leave it alone. This lets things settle down. It takes about 3 weeks to see if you need to make changes.
     
  13. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Thank you everyone for being so helpful! Things seem to be going well so far. I can tell the plants are keeping nitrates down... I don't know much about plants but can brown leaves on certain plants be signs of new growth or a deficiency?

    I'm going to see how well 8 hrs does before I up it to 10...

    Lastly, how do you do PAR readings?

    Thx guys!
     
  14. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Brown leaves are usually dead leaves. It might be just normal old leaves that died.

    Here is an article called "Warning Signs of Nutrient Deficiency." It may be very useful. Do note that some deficiency symptoms show up on new leaves while some show up on older leaves. When you are trying to determine what's going on, this will be very useful. This is all explained in that article.
    OK. I suggested 10 hours because most aquarium plants get around 10 to 14 hours of daylight in the wild and it didn't deviate much from your 8 hour plan.

    You use a PAR meter to measure it. Here is a good article about two different models. There is very much good information in it.
     
  15. Mikeybabs

    Mikeybabs Junior Poster

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    Ok so should I pick off all the brown greens? What if they're greenish brown? Thanks for the informative sites I will continue to read up on it. Do you mind analyzing them if I post a link to a YouTube video of my planted aquarium? I'll post it tomorrow... Thanks!
     
  16. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    If a leaf looks like it is dead or dieing, you can get rid of it.

    Many times Java Fern has baby plants forming on the tips of its dieing leaves. You can tear off the dead around the baby plants after you see a few leaves and some "roots" on these baby plants. Java Ferns really do not have "roots," but the technical name for them evades me completely right now. :)

    Here are two good articles by Karen Randall that are very helpful. "Pruning, Dividing and Propagating in the Display Aquarium" - parts one and two.
    Part 1: http://bobstropicalplants.com/Chuck/jun1998.html
    Part 2: http://bobstropicalplants.com/Chuck/july1998.html
     
  17. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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    ADA journals are very good about how to prune, ADA, like myself suggest aggressive pruning.
    I often why more folks do not pay attention to what good things ADA has to offer and not obsess so much about the nutrients.
    Their lighting is quite low, but high if you use the W/gal ranges.

    About the same as what I use, this occurred independently until a couple of years ago when I tested the ADA tanks(6 of them).
    40-50 micromoles along the bottom evenly spread.
    Everyone of them.

    I went home already knowing what my own tanks where already and they where the same.
    Now many like to suggest a scape defines a method(It does not) but I find it curious so many folks suggest 2x as much light but............often reference nice scapes as examples, rather than seeing how low of light they can use. ADA suggest their own brands for obvious reasons....but with the PAR data you can target these same amounts without having to do that.

    Even a low light tank that is nice does not express the lower limit, it might be even lower.............I cannot be 100% sure...........I might be wrong and it might be 30-40micromols etc............Some cases, this might be true...........but with a very wide range of species(I cannot think of any species out 300-400), they all do quite nicely at 40-50.

    No one has yet to take the threat challenge and win this claim about high light plant myth.
    Something that requires more light that this over the sediment.......I have not found such a plant.

    If someone knows of such a plant, please...........make a claim and then we can see if we have prior experience...........or have something new to test that is related to PAR independent of CO2/ferts.
     
  18. Biollante

    Biollante Lifetime Charter Member
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    If You Are Rootless, Holdfast

    Hi Left C,

    They are called "holdfasts.":gw

    Many primitive plants lack roots, but have to stay in place somehow.:rolleyes:

    Biollante
     
  19. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Holdfasts. Thank you, Biollante.
     
  20. Tom Barr

    Tom Barr Founder
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