Vidar Vekve said:The basics in the discussion is that if you got a KH at 0 from your tap its better to keep it that way rather than buffer it. In that way its easier to keep stability.
Generally Edward talks about the fact that fish don't care about the pH (which has been stated several times here also) and it's the amount of Co2 that has to be watched carefully.
I have a tap at 2 dKH and lately has been buffering it to 3,5 - 4 with NaCo3.
I am moving my tanks to my new home in a week or two and the tap there has 0 dKH.
If I can skip the NaCo3, I have one less thing to dose......
Tom Barr said:You can do it a few different ways.
A simple one, take the water sample from the tank out(say 4-8oz mls).
Let it sit for 24 hours.
Measure it's pH.
Write that pH down.
Next add enough CO2 to the tank to reduce the pH to 1.0 units.
This should give you 30ppm and a pH drop due entirely to CO2 gas.
You might dail things in from here with your eyes and add a tad more/less depending on how you dose CO2 and the look you are after.
The pH is impossible to measure at KH=0, but generally, some KH is present and other buffers exist besides bicarbonates.
Skyfish said:I'm not sure I understand. You ask to let the water sit then measure the PH and make a note.
So let's say it reads 7.1/7.2, (while the tank water measurers 6.2) I should add CO2 in the tank to drop 1.0, in comparision to the aged water (7.1) or the tank water (6.2)
VaughnH said:I think you have no fish or shrimp in the tank now. Right? If so, why don't you increase the CO2 by a lot, just to see what high CO2 looks like as far as pearling, plant growth, etc. are concerned. Plants aren't harmed by CO2 levels as high as we can get them. Once you know what a really high CO2 level does, you can back down on the bubble rate until you no longer get all those good effects. Then, check to see what the pH, KH, outgassed tank water pH are, and use that to guess how much CO2 you have in the tank at what will be the optimum bubble rate. Once you get fish and shrimp in the tank you can start with a lower bubble rate and very slowly, a little bit every day or even every week, raise the bubble rate to see if you can safely use the optimum bubble rate you found above.
PeterGwee said:Well, just take a sample of the tank water as tom mentioned and let it stand for 24-48hrs before taking the pH measurement. Using that pH measured, drop it down by about 1.0 using CO2 gas and you should hit an approximate value of 30ppm. You can then fine tune it further to max the plants out without harming the fish via visual response.
Eg. pH of tank water after standing for 24-48hrs = 6.1 (Likely to be the case since ADA aquasoil has peat in it which will reduce the pH).
For 30ppm of CO2, drop the pH down to 5.1 using CO2 gas only.
Skyfish said:Quenton/PeterG, thanks for clarifying this. I got it now, I was just not sure if I had to compare to the aged water. It's clear now, I have the water sitting, will test tomorrow. Since I have no fish, I can crank up the CO2 safely. I do however have seen snails in there, which look fine in this high ammonia tank. If they die, I'll know.
I have had good success with EI and Co2 in basic gravel, now with AS/PS it's all a new dimension and it’s intriguing, like venturing into a new adventure and solving the mystery, but it all boils down to the same thing in the end, keeping track of things and keeping algae at bay, while the plants flourish.
PeterGwee said:If the ammonia is indeed that high in the tank, you would have a nasty algae bloom of many species namely greenwater, staghorn and etc. I suspect a bad test kit.
Overdoing the CO2 can have effects on bacteria as well. Don't go overboard.