I'm building high-regulators with brand new factory ordered components

In an attempt to provide the hardcore enthusiast with a durable and long lasting alternative, I have decided to officially announce my intention to build high-end regulators and post bodies with NEW factory-ordered parts. I only use components that have been proven to work. Parts include: a Victor dual stage regulator (I can order any model from the factory), Burkert type 6011 solenoids (stainless or brass, buna-n or Viton seals), Swagelok NPT pipe fittings (stainless or brass), a built-in Swagelok check valve, and either an Ideal valve or a Fabco NV-55-18--all factory ordered and 100% NEW. I do not use surplus or used components. I build single and multiple manifold units so that you can distribute CO2 to a single or multiple tanks.

I charge a non-refundable $200 labor fee per unit, which includes an itemized invoice of costs, collaborative planning, ordering and receiving all parts, building and testing the unit prior to shipping. If requested, I will also create a build thread with pictures for an additional $50--all of which will be donated to The Barr Report. I also provide all invoices for factory warranty purposes should the buyer have problems with the individual components. It is the buyer's responsibility to file any warranty claims with the parts manufacturers. I check every unit for function prior to shipping, so this should not be a problem. Plus all of these components are thoroughly checked at the factory prior to shipping due to safety reasons, so it's a safe bet that they are in working order. That's why I only choose to work with new components!

Other costs include parts and shipping. Beyond the $200 labor fee, I charge the EXACT amount for parts and shipping (no mark-up). The parts and labor fee is non-refundable for obvious reasons-- once I order the parts and use them, I can't return them.

I am also not responsible for any damage or loss that may occur during shipment. My liability ends once the regulator is accepted by the USPS. That said, if something happens during shipment, send the unit back to me (buyer pays shipping both ways), and I will fix whatever shifted during shipment, or I will provide directions on how to tweak components back into their original position. I have not had this happen to date. I am also not responsible for customs issues on international shipments. When shipping, my responsibility ends once the units is accepted by the USPS. The builder is not responsible for any damage caused by the use or misuse of this item.

In order for the unit to receive lifelong tech support, it must remain in the original configuration and not be tampered with. Rebuilding, altering, removing components, adding components, or any other alteration will void my offer of tech support. I will not back something that has been altered.

I ship USPS Priority Mail only. International shipping arrangements will have to be worked out prior to my quoting you a price. Insurance provided upon request only(assuming insurance is offered).

Payment must be made in full prior to starting the project. I will do my best to provide you with an accurate estimate, but extra orders for components might be necessary depending on the complexity of the project. I accept Paypal Personal Payments, only, which waves your (the buyer's) rights to file a claim later on down the road. I provide a service for fellow hobbyists. I am NOT a business. By sending payment you agree to all the stated policies in this thread.

I am also not in control of any lead times on parts. Some parts are made by the manufacturer to order, so lead times could delay the build process. Victor Specialty regulators are made to order and usually have a 6 day lead time. Swagelok components can have a lead time of up to a month! Know this ahead of time.

This process is a collaborative one filled with many emails between you and me. You'll be a part of the process ever step of the way. No surprises.

I encourage you to contact me with questions or concerns.

I'd be willing to order brand new regulators without the post body for anyone. These are shipped from the factory (Victor Equipment Co.' specialty division) with a factory installed CGA320. I charge the exact amount for the regulator, shipping to get the unit to you, and a $50 service fee. Even with the service fee, you'd still be getting the unit for less than most distributors charge. The unit would be in its original box (unopened by me), and sealed in it's original plastic bag. These things come extremely well packaged, so it's safe to ship them. These new units are under factory warranty, so you'd get the original invoice, etc.

Let me know if I can order an HPT500, HPT270, HPT100 (mini), SGT500, or the VTS250 series for you. I can basically order any Victor regulator you want, so don't let this list limit you.







Here are some examples of jobs I've done recently for fellow hobbyists:

Camilo:








Gregg:












Other examples of past work:
VTS Builds (I do not use JBJ BUbble counters anymore due to their mechanic inferiority)



SGT500s:






I'll keep this post updated with pictures as I complete more builds.

 

Thanks for the feedback, Jiinx. By building these I'm trying to provide another option for serious hobbyists. So, if the person is mechanically inclined, they can build their own unit using my DIY threads, or they can pay me to buy the parts and build one for them.
Anyway, glad the unit is working as it should.

 

Directions for set-up and use of your new regulator and post-body

When you first unpack your regulator, please pay attention to the alignment of the post body in relation to the regulator. Occasionally the regulator or post body might shift during shipment. So, minor adjustment may be needed prior to use. I have marked your pipe fittings with a single dot on either side of a connection in magic marker to show orientation. In some drastic cases if these dots do not line up, you may need to adjust them so that they do. Very minor shifting is okay as long as there are no leaks. Should adjustment be needed, please contact me. I recommend using two small to medium sized adjustable wrenches to do this. Once things are aligned, you may remove the magic marker dots by using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

Things you will need in order to be able to use your Swagelok tube adapters:

1) You will need 4mm/6mm (ID/OD) pressure resistant tubing. I recommend the use of ADA pressure resistant tubing along with their whole distribution system.
Here is the link for the ADA pressure resistant tubing:
http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_1_53&products_id=68
2) Run the pressure resistant tubing to your in-line check valve. I recommend ADA plastic check valves, which can either be bought in the “Parts Kit” or individually.
Here is the parts kit that contains the check valve, silicone tubing, and suction cups you’ll need to connect your line to a diffuser:
ADA Gray Parts kit ~ http://www.adanausa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_1_53&products_id=65
ADA Clear Parts Kit ~ http://www.adanausa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_1_53&products_id=732
You can buy an individual check valve here:
http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_1_4&products_id=64
If you opt for a bubble counter, I recommend this one:
http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_2_15&products_id=7
Your regulator will come with all the paperwork and extra parts necessary to connect your CO2 tubing. In the plastic bag is a CO2 washer and the tubing insert(s) needed to attach your pressure resistant tubing to the Swagelok tube adapter. Please read here for directions on how to connect your CO2 line:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings
Should you need to adjust either your Ideal Valve’s micrometer handle, the tension, or your black knob, please see this thread for directions:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7971-How-to-adjust-your-Ideal-Valve

Should you have any questions or concerns, please contact me without hesitation. I’m here to help, and I want you to enjoy your new regulator.

 

Thanks for the support. I just recently mentioned to another member that I wish you were still building as well. You're the only other guy I trust to do an honest and ethical job. Plus you filled a niche in the community by building affordable units with quality parts. Not everyone is able or inclined to drop coin on brand new factory ordered parts. BTW, it's kind of fun bothering ANdrew at J&R and Bill at Ideal all the time. LoL

 

Building post-bodies isn't as lucrative as it seems for all the time and effort you put into it. I like what I do. It's a part of this hobby for me, NOT a business. The only coin you make is earned by the time and effort you put into researching what parts work and why, collaborating with clients about their custom build, sourcing the parts for the best prices, ordering parts, waiting for parts to trickle in, building the unit, testing it, and shipping it when done. Not to mention problem solving if something goes wrong. It's a lot of work for not a lot of money, and I'm okay with that. 80-90% of the money goes to parts. That's why an aquarium related vendor stopped selling custom Victor DSRs. No profit margin. As far as someone doing a better job assembling these things...there's not much room to compare. If it works as it's suppose to, without leaks, and it doesn't look hideous, you've done a good job. The good thing about using 100% new parts is that your unit will last decades if not longer and give you worry free service. There is literally no wear out to some of the components used in my builds. Same can't be said for rigs that are made from used or surplus parts. Sometimes you don't know what you're getting.

If the gasman wants to lighten the load by taking on some custom jobs, or if someone wants to DIY, then all they need to do is look here:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/10291-The-noob-guide-to-building-your-own-regulator-part-numbers-sources-and-other-tips! I don't play around with or recommend experimental, used, or surplus crap. Someone else can do that.

I have listed literally EVERYTHING you need to build your own used or new regulator, from part numbers to sources. Funny how I still get questions on where to find things...They are ALL listed in that thread. All the hard work has been done by Left C and myself. I'm thankful that you've given the hobbyist a place to discuss better options for gas distribution. Not all admins are open minded enough.

 

Thanks Camilo.

 

I'm working on a rather exciting project for those of you in need of a regulator, but with limited space. Stay tuned.

 

Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad the regulator got to you safely. Your questions were NEVER "idiotic." It's an educational process for everyone. The client is a partner in the process with me. We discuss options, make decisions, and ultimately build the right custom regulator for your application. Regulators and post bodies made to order. None of this cookie cutter crap. You get a truly custom build with premium components. These units will last a lifetime. That's why I insist on using the parts I use. In my opinion, there is nothing better on the market. But you pay for the quality. You pay for what you get.

 

Just completed a build for Glenn. This one is a single output HPT500:

 

Just finished Dustin's Victor HPT100:

 

Just want to let you all know that I've caught up with all the orders. was having a problem with Swagelok and some of the components being on backorder, but everything worked out. My schedule is free again, so I am taking orders again. Please send me a PM if you are interested in a custom build with all new factory ordered components.

Best,

Matt

 

for those of you in Europe, I am also able to order CGA320/BS341-8 Adapters. This means you can use a CGA320 regulator on your British gas tank!

 

I'm doing a 24 hour promotion. Buy a custom regulator and get a FREE Brass Burkert Type 6011 solenoid with Buna-N seal. Offer expires at 10pm (my time) on 10/28/2013. PM me if interested.