How to wire a Burkert type 6011 solenoid

GillesF

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Matt

I tried your method: the solenoid shuts off the CO2 but I can still hear a hissing sound, seems the CO2 is still passing through when everything is shut off. Looks like I have to send them back?

Gilles
 

Matt F.

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GillesF;76040 said:
Matt

I tried your method: the solenoid shuts off the CO2 but I can still hear a hissing sound, seems the CO2 is still passing through when everything is shut off. Looks like I have to send them back?

Gilles

The only time I have had that problem is when I had the solenoid on backwards. That test just confirms the fact that something is preventing the solenoid from closing all the way. Could be an electrical short, a piece of telfon tape or something else, or...Check those electrical connections before you send it back.
 

Left C

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You can use the steps that I gave you to blow the trash out, if that is the problem. Or you can remove the solenoid and use compressed air.
 

oliverpool

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Wonder if anyone can advise what other things I could check to confirm if my 6011 Burkert is faulty? When I first got it, I noticed that the click sound when I switch it on was rather soft. But as it was working, I let it be for around 2 weeks. When my CO2 tank ran out and I was outstation, I switched it off and only connected my new tank back around 1 week later. This time, the solenoid did not seem to open and there was defintely no click sound or "jerk" when I held the solenoid on my hand and switched it on.

I changed the fuse on my plug, changed the cable and rewired the solenoid (even reversed the wiring) and changed to a new wall plug and still could not get it working. Any suggestion on anything else to try before I send it back?
 

Left C

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oliverpool;76241 said:
Wonder if anyone can advise what other things I could check to confirm if my 6011 Burkert is faulty? When I first got it, I noticed that the click sound when I switch it on was rather soft. But as it was working, I let it be for around 2 weeks. When my CO2 tank ran out and I was outstation, I switched it off and only connected my new tank back around 1 week later. This time, the solenoid did not seem to open and there was defintely no click sound or "jerk" when I held the solenoid on my hand and switched it on.

I changed the fuse on my plug, changed the cable and rewired the solenoid (even reversed the wiring) and changed to a new wall plug and still could not get it working. Any suggestion on anything else to try before I send it back?
You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.
 

oliverpool

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Left C;76273 said:
You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.

Thanks for the suggestion!
 

Matt F.

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Left C;76273 said:
You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.

Yeah, I think this is the best bet for those of you with issues after wiring your own solenoid. Without being there, there is really no way to know for sure what is going on. You have to remember that these solenoids are leak tested from the factory. They leave working properly. So something is happened between the time it gets to you and the time you plug it in your wall socket. Tech support is prob your best bet at this point.

If you reverse the wires, the solenoid might not work properly. In the DIY thread, I showed everyone the proper wiring configuration-which color goes where, etc.
I got this info from burkert support. If you trim too much of the plastic insulation off the wires, you can cause function issues with the solenoid. May even arc and cause different problems. ;)
 

oliverpool

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I was wondering if it was possible or all right to change the body (the metal part with ports inlet and outlet) between different models? I was thinking as long as the orifice was the same e.g. 2mm that this should not cause problems even if there are different voltage models?



Matt F.;76391 said:
Yeah, I think this is the best bet for those of you with issues after wiring your own solenoid. Without being there, there is really no way to know for sure what is going on. You have to remember that these solenoids are leak tested from the factory. They leave working properly. So something is happened between the time it gets to you and the time you plug it in your wall socket. Tech support is prob your best bet at this point.

If you reverse the wires, the solenoid might not work properly. In the DIY thread, I showed everyone the proper wiring configuration-which color goes where, etc.
I got this info from burkert support. If you trim too much of the plastic insulation off the wires, you can cause function issues with the solenoid. May even arc and cause different problems. ;)
 

Matt F.

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I think that would be a good question for Burkert customer service. I wouldn't switch brands b/c we are dealing with pressurized gas. I also don't see why you would want to switch. What would be your reason for switching bodies?

oliverpool;76533 said:
I was wondering if it was possible or all right to change the body (the metal part with ports inlet and outlet) between different models? I was thinking as long as the orifice was the same e.g. 2mm that this should not cause problems even if there are different voltage models?
 

oliverpool

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Matt F.;76574 said:
I think that would be a good question for Burkert customer service. I wouldn't switch brands b/c we are dealing with pressurized gas. I also don't see why you would want to switch. What would be your reason for switching bodies?

Not switch brands but from one 6011 burkert to another model of 6011 burkert. I have a faulty 6011 which has NPT 1/8 ports which is the one I want. I can get easily another 6011 model but it comes in G1/8 port. So basically I wanted to use the G1/8 solenoid but mate it to the NPT1/8 body....I live in Singapore one consideration is shipping cost etc which is why I asked this question.
 

Left C

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oliverpool;76593 said:
Not switch brands but from one 6011 burkert to another model of 6011 burkert. I have a faulty 6011 which has NPT 1/8 ports which is the one I want. I can get easily another 6011 model but it comes in G1/8 port. So basically I wanted to use the G1/8 solenoid but mate it to the NPT1/8 body....I live in Singapore one consideration is shipping cost etc which is why I asked this question.
Here are my thoughts on your question:

I would call Burkert tech support to make sure that it would work. I think what you are wanting to do will work if everything is the same but the threads, BUT I DO NOT WORK FOR BURKERT. I CANNOT SPEAK FOR THEM.

Modifying yours will probably void the warranty. Call Burkert and explain your situation.

Isn't the one that you have now under warranty?

Also, Burkert can custom make models according to your specs. Takes about 6 weeks. You need 220V-240V 50 Hz. Here are the specs for 120V 60 Hz Buna-N models: http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...als-...-available-very-soon?p=52342#post52342


Bürkert Contact: http://burkert.com/

SINGAPORE
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

51 Ubi Avenue 1, #03-14
Paya Ubi Industrial Park
Singapore 408933
Singapore
Phone: Int. (+65)6844 2233, Nat. 6844 2233
Fax: Int. (+65)6844 3532, Nat. 6844 3532
E-Mail: [email protected]



MALAYSIA
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

(Malaysia Branch Office)
2F-1, Tingkat Kenari 6,
Sungai Ara,
11960 Penang,
Malaysia.
Phone: Int. (+60 4)643 5008, Nat. (04)643 5008
Fax: Int. (+60 4)643 7010, Nat. (04)643 7010
E-Mail: [email protected]
 

oliverpool

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Understand. The Singapore office takes a super long time to give you a answer on anything unfortunately. I was hoping to avoid calling the US office and to date, both the Germany and US office still have not answered my email. Guess the only way to be sure is to call the office directly. I was wondering why the 230/240v 50hz models do not come in NPT 1/8. Guess the same answer as the CGA320 nuts for US and another standard for Europe. Sigh, things would be so much easier and probably cheaper for everyone if we can have similar standards...

Left C;76597 said:
Here are my thoughts on your question:

I would call Burkert tech support to make sure that it would work. I think what you are wanting to do will work if everything is the same but the threads, BUT I DO NOT WORK FOR BURKERT. I CANNOT SPEAK FOR THEM.

Modifying yours will probably void the warranty. Call Burkert and explain your situation.

Isn't the one that you have now under warranty?

Also, Burkert can custom make models according to your specs. Takes about 6 weeks. You need 220V-240V 50 Hz. Here are the specs for 120V 60 Hz Buna-N models: http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...als-...-available-very-soon?p=52342#post52342


Bürkert Contact: http://burkert.com/

SINGAPORE
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

51 Ubi Avenue 1, #03-14
Paya Ubi Industrial Park
Singapore 408933
Singapore
Phone: Int. (+65)6844 2233, Nat. 6844 2233
Fax: Int. (+65)6844 3532, Nat. 6844 3532
E-Mail: [email protected]



MALAYSIA
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

(Malaysia Branch Office)
2F-1, Tingkat Kenari 6,
Sungai Ara,
11960 Penang,
Malaysia.
Phone: Int. (+60 4)643 5008, Nat. (04)643 5008
Fax: Int. (+60 4)643 7010, Nat. (04)643 7010
E-Mail: [email protected]
 

Matt F.

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GillesF;76632 said:
I blew out one reg and redid the wiring and so far no CO2 passing through. Now, I'm going to rebuild it and check it one more time.

Great news. Keep us posted. Prob a wiring issue.
 

Left C

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GillesF;76632 said:
I blew out one reg and redid the wiring and so far no CO2 passing through. Now, I'm going to rebuild it and check it one more time.
I'm glad that it is working out for you even if it is a piece at a time.

Your problem reminds me of some problems that I've had fiddling with my Nova T5 light fixture. :)

Good luck!
 

Lost Csr

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Oliverpool.
I have a thread with a NPT with Euro specs.
I have asked (a while back from 3 different Euro Burkert Company)

They all told me that the 462501 is the best solenoid for our use. Just comes in SS.

Pm me if you would like me to order one for you.

Goodluck Gilles with your reg. My offer is always there.
 
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oliverpool

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Thanks for the info. Any Idea what difference does a 2mm or 2.4mm orifice would mean? Could u pm me the price for the item?


Lost Csr;77153 said:
Oliverpool.
I have a thread with a NPT with Euro specs.
I have asked (a while back from 3 different Euro Burkert Company)

They all told me that the 462501 is the best solenoid for our use. Just comes comes in SS.

Pm me if you would like me to order one for you.

Goodluck Gilles with your reg. My offer is always there.
 

David

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One question for you Matt:

I see that there are two Type 2506 DIN connectors for the 6011, one with a varistor and one without. Which did you choose, and why?

I'll be ordering my 6011 stainless Buna-N solenoid this week so I thought I'd get your opinion on this before I pick up a DIN connector.

Cheers.
 

Matt F.

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I think I ordered the 2506 DIN without the varisitor. No reason why I didn't buy one with a varisitor. Not sure why one would want a varisitor. I think there is an LED'd version of the 2506DIN (Ask LeftC).
I don't think it really matters much. My 2605 DIn w/o works fine in my application where the solenoid is connected to a powerstrip and the powerstrip is plugged into the wall.
It's kinda like the whole Viton vs. Buna debate. Buna is actually a cheaper material than Viton. Both will hold up extremely well over time. I don't think we'll notice a difference with seal materials. Buna is used for painball guns, which are propelled by co2 gas. You'll be fine either way. I prefer simpler stuff. Less is more, imo.
Hope this helps.

David;86179 said:
One question for you Matt:

I see that there are two Type 2506 DIN connectors for the 6011, one with a varistor and one without. Which did you choose, and why?

I'll be ordering my 6011 stainless Buna-N solenoid this week so I thought I'd get your opinion on this before I pick up a DIN connector.

Cheers.