How to wire a Burkert type 6011 solenoid

[Matt F.]

Due to a lack of references on the internet, most people cringe at the idea of wiring their own CO2 solenoids. I hope to show with 50+ pictures that wiring your own solenoid isn't something to be scared of. The shop where I ordered this solenoid offered to wire it for me for the cost of $20. Save yourself the money and DIY!

Here is how the package came today:

The packing slip w/ part numbers (MMMMM BUNA-N):

Aside from the box that I will show you with the solenoid, this type 2506 DIN connector came wrapped up in its own plastic bag. This is the thing we will wire and plug into the solenoid:

This is what is in the plastic type 2506 DIN bag:

Here is the way the actual solenoid comes:

Here is the solenoid once outside of the box:

 

[Matt F.]

Here are some pics of the different angles of the solenoid:

This is where the type 2506 DIn connects once the power cord has been installed...a gasket will sit in between:

Shifting the focus back to the Type 2506 DIN, lets start by disassebling the unit:

The 2506 comes with a cap on the back. You will need to remove this in order to get the connecting points (where you connect the power chord) into position.

Here is the location of the cap:

I'm removing it!

Here is how it looks when the cap has been removed and we look down into the 2506:

 

[Matt F.]

Now, if you look at the last picture, you will notice a green circuit board-looking thing. This is something we will have to remove from the black plastic body/case but only after we remove the cord pressure screw, seal, and crush washer from the back of the DIN unit:

To do this unscrew counter clockwise:

It should end up looking like this (there are 3 pieces that come off once your unscrew the pressure srew (screw, seal, crushwasher): ***In these pictures, the screw, seal, and washer are attached, so it all looks like one piece***

Here is what it looks like down the cord tunnel after you remove the nut, seal, and crush washer:

 

[Matt F.]

Once we have everything disassembled, we need to remove the green circuit board looking thing from the housing. To do this, use a SMALL flathead screwdriver and gently pry up inside of the black plastic housing on the side where the cord attaches.

Again, going back to this picture, you see where the cord tunnel meets the circuit board? Insert the flathead screwdriver just inside the black housing between the cord tunnel and the metal connectors on the circuit board.

Pry up slightly, the circuit board will pull out with little effort.

This is where you connect your 18/3 gauge power cord:

When you pry out this circuit board, you'll notice a black plastic cradle that connects to the unit. You can take that black cradle off temporarily:

 

[Matt F.]

Before you do any connecting, trim the cord wires to the correct length (I kept these long to make it easier to photograph) and feed the wire end of the power cord through the DIN body (through the power cord tube). It should look like this after you're done (obviosuly the wires should only be .5-1" long--I am showing lots of excess wire):

Note the position of the crush washer, seal, and pressure screw:

(I ended up having to cut the excess wire and re-strip them prior to install. I left the wires long in order to ease the picture taking process).

Notice on the circuit board the (+) (-) and (earth) symbols:

 

[Matt F.]

It's time to connect:

For wiring:
Green = Earth/Ground
Black = Hot/Live (+)
White = Neg (-)

Here is what it should look like. Insert the tips of the wires, then tighten the screw down to hold them in place:

Next add the black plastic bracket back on the circuit board:

Slide the whole thing back inside the DIN plastic housing:

Depending on the power cord, the wires leading into the DIN connector can be too long. I removed about an inch and re-installed. I used regular wire cutting pliers and a razor blade. Only strip about 1/2 cm of insulation off (at most) the tip of the wires to prevent shorts.

snipped and reinstalled:

 

[Matt F.]

Now you're in the home stretch, tighten down (by hand) the crush washer, seal, and pressure screw on the power cord side. Screw it in the cord tunnel:

Looking back at the solenoid, look at the 2506 DIn male connector. This is where the 2506 DIN will connect. You will, however, place the provided (white) gasket inbetween the solenoid and the DIN.

See pics:

Now it's time to use the provided screw:

 

[Matt F.]

Here is the way it looks:

Once everything is buttoned up, plug it in and listen to that nice click. If you hear the click, you're good to go!

Here are the specs on the DIN plastic bag for wiring:

 

[inkslinger]

Great job nice pic's an info, Thanks , I will be getting mine at the end of this month can't wait!!

 

[Matt F.]

Thanks, inkslinger--

I hope this helps calm peoples' nerves...it's really not that hard. The hardest part for me was trimming the power cord to the proper length. I cut about an inch or an inch and a half off, which left me about 1/2" to restrip. I just used wire cutters and a razor blade to restrip the wires...

Tools needed:

tiny flat head screwdriver (to pry the circuit board up and undo the wire connection screws)
wire cutter and razor blade or wire stripper tool (either will work to take off the excess on the power cord).

 

[pat w]

Pardon me while I pick this nit.

First ... Excelent how-to. First rate step-by-step illustrations. Most everyone should be able to follow along easily.

Just one little nit to pick.

You left a little too much wire exposed at the terminals. As a general rule the exposed wire if broken and bent shouldn't be able to make contact with a similar borken wire from the next terminal. This will rule out the posibility of a cat's whisker short during final assembly. Best practices are to cut and strip at lengths to insure the insulation just fails to make contact with the terminal when the wire is fully inserted.

Saw some of your other How-to's on regulator builds ... all very well done, Thanks.

Pat

 

[Matt F.]

First ... Excelent how-to. First rate step-by-step illustrations. Most everyone should be able to follow along easily.

Just one little nit to pick.

You left a little too much wire exposed at the terminals. As a general rule the exposed wire if broken and bent shouldn't be able to make contact with a similar borken wire from the next terminal. This will rule out the posibility of a cat's whisker short during final assembly. Best practices are to cut and strip at lengths to insure the insulation just fails to make contact with the terminal when the wire is fully inserted.

Saw some of your other How-to's on regulator builds ... all very well done, Thanks.

Pat

Criticism noted and well received. Thanks. I actually trimmed the wires to the proper length and re-threaded the wires after I took the pics. I had a ton of excess wire. I figured it would be easier to take pics that way. I must have trimmed about an inch or so.

See below for the new pics...I didn't even think to mention about the potential for shorting, etc...Doh!

 

[Matt F.]

Here is the way the wires look now. This is my first time, so bear with me...LoL

 

[pat w]

Here is the way the wires look now. This is my first time, so bear with me...LoL

Looks great!

If you got a pair of steel toe shoes and safety glasses you're hired.

Pat

 

[Matt F.]

Pat,

Have the composite toe boots (shock resistant) and the glasses...I actually should have worn them the first time I plugged the solenoid in..LMAO

-Matt

 

[inkslinger]

Can a computer power cord work with this plug ,
My clippard i use a 16g with no problem
But this I got a a 3/18awg and can not go pass the screw cap with washer
But with the computer power cord I can go all the way in 3/18awg {csa type ll81924 svt }??

 

[Matt F.]

Can a computer power cord work with this plug ,
My clippard i use a 16g with no problem
But this I got a a 3/18awg and can not go pass the screw cap with washer
But with the computer power cord I can go all the way in 3/18awg {csa type ll81924 svt }??

An 18/3 gauge cord should fit perfectly. See other thread. They sell them for like $2 for a 6' cord. I linked a source.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...portant-in-preventing-leaks?p=57928#post57928

 

[inkslinger]

Thanks, inkslinger--

I hope this helps calm peoples' nerves...it's really not that hard. The hardest part for me was trimming the power cord to the proper length. I cut about an inch or an inch and a half off, which left me about 1/2" to restrip. I just used wire cutters and a razor blade to restrip the wires...

Tools needed:

tiny flat head screwdriver, wire cutters and a razor blade and maybe some type of sandpaper or file.

You sure made it look an sound so easy, I reorder my cord and everything went easy {all right!! 5 min. job!!! YEA RIGHT!!} 2 hour later , My screw nut easy to pull back but will not go back to tighten . I had to sand down around the wire to get the screw nut close enough to catch the thread and tighten it down!!!
Remind Me just order one all ready with power cord!!!!

 

[Matt F.]

You sure made it look an sound so easy, I reorder my cord and everything went easy {all right!! 5 min. job!!! YEA RIGHT!!} 2 hour later , My screw nut easy to pull back but will not go back to tighten . I had to sand down around the wire to get the screw nut close enough to catch the thread and tighten it down!!!
Remind Me just order one all ready with power cord!!!!

Dang, that sucks. I wonder why the 18/3 gauge cord didn't slide in...hmmm
In that case a little lube might be called for...everything is better with lube.. :/
Mineral oil would be okay. Sand paper! that's craziness.
With trimming, it would only take me about 10 minutes to do a clean job.
The first time took longer of course.
I'll be wiring a clippard tomorrow, so I may take pics and do a write up...

 

[herns]

Matt,

Just had my 6011 wired up by just following your photos!

The Burkert I got has the black plastic cradle fix to the unit. Its a little hard when I place back the circuit board in because the cord is getting in the way of the cradle. I made it with a little patience.

I bought 3 CPU cable 18/3 cords on ebay for just about $4.50 each shipped. It works perfectly.