soundgy;62505 said:
Thank you so much for this thread! I still don't know what I am doing and too scared to hit the "Buy" button, but I am getting closer. The closer I get to understanding how to accomplish my build, which you have posted a comment about already, I suddenly find myself realizing that I missed an important part. I understand MPT/NPT/FPT fittings now, I think. I can't find any used Victor regulators matching the numbers you have suggested yet, so I might have to buy a new one.
One of my concerns is I will be putting a 20# tank in a room and running low pressure lines to remote tanks. I have been told I need to put the bubble counters and needle valves on the tank end and not the regulator end. Can you confirm if this is an issue or not? I understand the convenience of having the bubble counter next to the tank, but is it really necessary when doing such slow modifications to the BPS settings?
Also, I noticed you commented on "crack pressure" for check valves and "back pressure" on ceramic discs. If I am using manifolds to split the working pressure outlet on my regulator, am I multiplying each "cracking" pressure?
I obviously still have much to learn and don't mind doing the legwork and research, but I feel I have kind of stumbled and need a point in the right direction.
Any help you can provide, even search terms, I would appreciate it greatly.
Thanks,
Matt
Hi, Matt-
Glad this thread has helped a bit. In your situation, I would run a "D" gauge regulator, a single solenoid, and multiple needle valves. Fabco is comming out with an inexpensive 1/8" npt version of their NV-55 unit, which would be great on a manifold type set-up.
The needle valve can be connected to the manifold, which is connected to the solenoid and regulator.
Run co2 resistant (pressure resistant) lines to each tank. I use ADA glass bubble counters on the tank side to:
1) insure that gas is flowing
2) eyeball how much gas is entering my tanks.
With the dropchecker/bubble counter combo, you can easily get into the ballpark and keep an eye on things as the system ages. The drop checker is a good diagnostic tool for the health of your co2 system. Is teh gas going where it needs to go and at the correct speed? You can answer this question with a bubble counter. I'd stay away from JBJs. I had one fail. Check valve went out. An in-line like the ADA is teh way to go, imo.
I'd also buy new if you can. Fewer headaches. There is no real way to tell how well an ebay used regulator performs prior to buying it and testing it.
With a new regulator, all the questions are answered. The unit works and it is in perfect condition. You are covered by a manufacturer's warranty to boot. Why build/invest in a shaky foundation (used regulator) when you can afford a new one?
If you need part numbers or places to buy a new regulator, just let me know.
If you are running more than one tank, I would consider getting a regulator with a C, D, E gauge rather than an A or B.