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How to build a Victor SGT 500 Regulator

Discussion in 'CO2 Enrichment' started by Matt F., Nov 2, 2010.

  1. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Today is a good day in that the Giants won and...
    All my post body components are here. I am just waiting on my Smith stainless CGA 320 nipple (they sent out the nitrous oxide component by mistake).
    Here are some pics:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    SGT 500 Build:

    Although my Smith stainless CGA 320 nipple hasn't arrived yet, I couldn't help but build this regulator tonight...plus I was tired of looking at the boxes...lol

    This is my first 90* outflow regulator, so it was a learning experience for me. Things went smoothly, though.

    first part is a Swagelok stainless 2" hex nipple
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With ARP thread sealer
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Next piece is a 1/4" x 1/8" 90* Swagelok elbow. I am going to face this down.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Next I was confronted with a clearance issue. Prior to the install, I loosened the low pressure gauge in order to get the OEM post body off. I kept it loose, and it was a good thing. I also ended up removing the relief valve in order to get the solenoid in the right position for a clean install.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note the direction of the flow through the solenoid:
    [​IMG]

    Here I am reinstalling the relief valve
    [​IMG]

    Here is the next part, which is a 1/8" 90* Swagelok elbow
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Here it is installed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now that the clearance phase has been surpassed, here I am reinstalling the low pressure gauge...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Here is the V54-1-12 Ideal Valve
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here is the big ticket item I had to order from Swagelok. It took 3 weeks to get here from the factory. It looks different from the Nupro version I have on my vts253a-1993.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Here it is with my custom chrome plated JBJ bubble counter
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Here are some more finished shots
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    More pics of the CGA 320 nut/nipple and filter install once it comes.
     
  9. Orple

    Orple Prolific Poster

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    Matt, that is a thing of beauty! I especially love how the small black knob on the chromed needle valve mimic the large knob on the regulator. One question for you: is the slight tilt forward of the solenoid/needle valve arm due to the point at which the threads on the initial reducing elbow tightened up? If so, how did you avoid having the threads tighten up in a much more inopportune direction?
     
  10. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    Nice!!

    Suggestion. Would you want to add a SS 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT SS-2-A extension between the elbows so that the bubble counter will be a little bit lower? Or, you could add one on each side of the solenoid. Each extension adds approximately 1/4" to 1/2" to the length. Just a thought. The BC might be a little high.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Just a few things since I posted this last night...(I have pressure tested the unit and these are things I learned the hard way):

    1) You cannot use non-hardening thread sealer on high pressure connections...the non-hardening thread sealer will just shoot out, so I ended up reseal a majority of the regulator side threads with teflon tape. This stopped the leaks.

    2) When I first connected the regulator to the gas, I heard massive amounts of co2 escaping from teh regulator. Knowing me, I though I bought a faulty regulator...turns out it was just gas escaping from the pressure relief valve. There is a hex head bolt inside that I needed to tighten.

    All three connections I sealed with non hardening thread sealer leaked upon testing:

    1) CGA 320 nipple to regulator body

    2) Pressure relief valve to regulator body

    3) post body 2" hex nipple to regulator body

    The only one that did not leak after switching to non-hardening thread sealer was the low pressure gauge.

    Here are pics after fixing the leaks with teflon tape. It's working perfectly with no leaks!!!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Left C~ I think the level of the bubble counter is perfect. It sit just below the top of the gauges.

    Orple~ the ideal valve is in stainless not chrome. You just have to play with the pipes and adjust with a wrench...when they get tight, you can use a wrench to push it that much more...
     
    #11 Matt F., Nov 2, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 2, 2010
  12. Left C

    Left C Lifetime Members
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    It looks right from that profile angle.

    Before, when it was hand held, the BC looked a little bit high. This is good! Two less expensive SS parts to buy.

    I really like the look of the 9 o'clock regulators when assembled this way.

    Terrific job, Matt!!!!
     
  13. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Yes, it's hard to see w/o it being mounted. I'm happy with the way it turned out. I'm just glad all those leaks were fixed. I freaked when the gas was escaping from every connection point!!!

    I need to replace my low pressure gauge, though. The background is bent and prevents the needle from increasing past 60 psi (not that Ineed it to). Good thing I bought that extra HPT 500! :)
     
  14. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    In case anyone needs the part numbers for "B" model stainless SGT 500 replacement gauges, just PM me. They are about $45 each. I've placed an order in for each.

    Word of advice from the victor/thermadyne tech, use teflon tape on the threads of stainless steel regulators. The threads can be stripped right out of the stainless steel body. Once this happens you have to toss your regulator. There is no way to fix em.
     
    #14 Matt F., Nov 4, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 4, 2010
  15. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Did this a while back. Just realized I never updated this thread. I removed the OEM "D" gauges and replaced with stainless "B" gauges.
    [​IMG]

    Decided to remove the bulky adjustable pressure relief valve and replace with a stainless hex plug:
    Before (thing with blue cap):
    [​IMG]

    Here is how it looks now:
    [​IMG]

    Also removed the POS JBJ bubble counter and replaced with part numbers:
    SS-6MO-1-2
    SS-6M5-4M

    [​IMG]
     
    #15 Matt F., Feb 22, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2011
  16. tridentair

    tridentair Junior Poster

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    Part numbers

    Hello Matt,
    Can you please advise part numbers for the fittings you used to build this regulator? A have Concoa 412 series. Do you think it is safe to remove pressure release valve and replace it with the plug? Thank you in advance. View attachment 2250 View attachment 2251 View attachment 2252

    P1020857.jpg

    P1020853.jpg

    P1020855.jpg
     
  17. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    if you want to do it the same way with brass:

    (from regulator)

    B-4-HLN-2.00
    B-4-RSE-2
    solenoid
    B-2-ME
    needle valve
    B-2c2-1/3
    B-2-HCG
    B-6M0-1-2
    B-6M5-4M

    Ideal Valve: V52-1-12
    SOlenoid: Burkert 6011

    Hex plug to replace relief valve: B-4-HP
     
  18. tridentair

    tridentair Junior Poster

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    Thank you Matt!
    I will use JBJ bubble counter after check valve. Will start ordering parts today, can't wait to put this one together.
     
  19. Matt F.

    Matt F. Lifetime Charter Member
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    Good luck, and please post pics when you're done in Left C's DSR thread. I love seeing these things built. ;)
     
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