How To Build A Cerges CO2 Reactor

Jason King

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Hi everyone

I decided to make a journal for my 10" cerges reactor build to make it easier for members to make one themselves.

Its the first time i've made one myself so if you see any mistakes or recommend any improvements that can be made please post them :D

Most information i got by reading lots of posts on various forums and watching various videos (thanks Gerry)

OK lets start with my plan (please correct me if you see any problems here)
AY4NhS9.jpg


and now on with the shopping list.
  • 1 x 10" Water Filter Housing with 3/4" Brass threaded BSP Ports and a Pressure Release Valve.
  • 1 x 1/2 Inch 90 Degree Tee BSP Threaded PVC Pipe Fitting for the co2 hose barb
  • 2 x 3/4 x 1/2 Inch BSP PVC Reducing Nipple Pipe Fittings to reduce the 3/4 housing ports to 1/2 fittings
  • 2 x 1/2 Inch 90 Deg Elbow BSP Threaded PVC Pipe Fitting for the filter hose barbs
  • 2 x 1/2 Inch Hexagon Nipple BSP PVC Pipe Fitting to connect the elbows
  • 2 x Hose Tail End Barb Connector - Hose Internal dia (Bore): 12mm (1/2") BSP Thread size: 1/2 (for the filter 12/16mm tubing)
  • 1 x Hose Tail End Barb Connector - Hose Internal dia (Bore): 5mm (3/16") BSP Thread size: 1/2 (for the co2 tubing)
  • 1 x Hair Bun Sponge to place around the internal piping and help break down the larger bubbles (is this needed? we will see)

i will also need some piping for inside of the housing that i will add to the list once the housing arrives and i know what size i will need.

Updates to follow.

any comments and suggestions are welcome
 

Donald Cutler

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kisanjong, probably being nitpicky, my only comment is that the "Water Out" goes up the middle pipe; however, everything else is on point. Also, a Check Valve should be included on the CO2 line. That way, when the CO2 is off, water does not creep back up the line towards the regulator
 
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burr740

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Nice thread. Ive also been getting my ducks in a row to build one of these for my 75. I was thinking of not using 90 degree elbows for the water in and out lines, and just running them straight. I dont want to decrease flow any more than possible. I think a ball valve on the return side would be better to cut it down some with, if that proved necessary. And maybe a ball valve on both sides just for easier removal.


Also Im wondering if the T where the CO2 line goes wouldnt be better with the CO2 line pointing up instead of down, like it is in the diagram. Seems like there would always be a big bubble of co2 in the vertical part of the T. Maybe not? Does it even matter?
 
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Jason King

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I was thinking the same about the elbows to be honest and might change this if is does make a big difference, gurus what are your opinions on this?


Same for the co2 input but thinking about it the flow from the water input will push the co2 in the correct direction regardless of the entry point?
 

burr740

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kisanjong said:
Same for the co2 input but thinking about it the flow from the water input will push the co2 in the correct direction regardless of the entry point?
Yeah it would have to. Just that the thought of there being a constant pocket of CO2 in that section of the T would......irk me.
 

ltb420

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kisanjong said:
I was thinking the same about the elbows to be honest and might change this if is does make a big difference, gurus what are your opinions on this?

Same for the co2 input but thinking about it the flow from the water input will push the co2 in the correct direction regardless of the entry point?

Both will be fine. Honestly the little pocket of CO2 in the t fitting will dissolve in just a few minutes of the CO2 being shut off.
 

toads74

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So with the 2x10" filter housing, what size pump would be appropriate for it? I have a spare maxijet 900 (rated 230gph) but i'm not sure if that's enough or too much. In either case i'd rather have a slightly oversize pump to overcome the loss from a fair number of elbows (4 total unless i can find some suitable U tubing). It's going on a 29g, hob style, so the pump will be in the tank.
 

ltb420

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Monk said:
shouldn't the arrows be pointing down on the piping ?
Nope, it's right now. You basically force the water against the CO2 bubbles then the CO2 rich water works it's way to the bottom up the tube and out to the aquarium.
 

Jason King

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almost done building this, so ill show you the progress so far.


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HUu21fCh.jpg



TIP: When using ptfe tape wrap the tape the opposite way to the thread so the the tape tightens as the thread is tightened.


LN43wJ7h.jpg



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i still need to add this piping before i test it for leaks..


Z1r0KKbh.jpg



thats it for now, ill test the reactor as soon as possible.
 

Monk

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Yes, I would use the hose clamps for a safe piece of mind. The reactors I've been building are reversed with the in / out.